Track car pics
03-22-2004, 10:12 PM
#47
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Sam, Jim picked it up this past weekend at TWS for $200!! (with hub) It's a MOMO wheel, I believe the adaptor is MOMO but as far as the positive or not...Jim? It's at his house.
He's been tearing the car apart, while I send pictures, sell parts and answer emails.
He's been tearing the car apart, while I send pictures, sell parts and answer emails.
03-22-2004, 10:24 PM
#48
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Originally posted by Ski
new wheels for the track car...should pick up stainless exhaust from a wrecked track car and Sparco Evo2 and Sparco Pro 2000 from the same car.
new wheels for the track car...should pick up stainless exhaust from a wrecked track car and Sparco Evo2 and Sparco Pro 2000 from the same car.
BTW, got the parts and installed them this weekend thanks.
03-22-2004, 10:55 PM
#49
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Glad to be of assistance Scott! We got a good deal on the wheels and the tires; A032R that had just been heat cycled.
Can someone tell me, in Porsches great wire "grouping", like the dimmer, fog light, headlight, blinker controls all go back into one taped harness - then you have the A/C climate controls that are grouped together and so on. Is it best to trace these back to the fuse box and eliminate them there?
We are only planning on keeping the mirror switch and button, three 12v power sources for "stuff", maybe the hazard switch...any other suggestions or comments?
Can someone tell me, in Porsches great wire "grouping", like the dimmer, fog light, headlight, blinker controls all go back into one taped harness - then you have the A/C climate controls that are grouped together and so on. Is it best to trace these back to the fuse box and eliminate them there?
We are only planning on keeping the mirror switch and button, three 12v power sources for "stuff", maybe the hazard switch...any other suggestions or comments?
03-23-2004, 12:25 PM
#51
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Ski,
I did pull those groups all the way back to the "box". It is a little time consuming for sure, but with my electronic ignorance, I didn't see an alternative really.
I did pull those groups all the way back to the "box". It is a little time consuming for sure, but with my electronic ignorance, I didn't see an alternative really.
03-23-2004, 04:47 PM
#54
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Max, I guess it's new. Jim is sending me the pics as he's tearing the car apart at his shop. I noticed it last night and it looks like the PO might have just replaced it! The car came from Denver. Jim said the car actually drove nice. He did find that the passenger rear quarter had a really good bump that's pretty ugly from the inside, the repair that is and the PO was a dumbA$$ when it came to wiring up accessories, jeez!
03-24-2004, 10:04 PM
#55
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Well Jim just got the Air Bag brain disconnected and a special thanks to Tom Pultz, www.944S2.com for his write up on the Air Bag Delete procedure; it was a breeze. FYI:
****METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained. ****
Simply, cut wire 7, cut 5, temporarily butt spliced 3 and 4, car started right up. 3 and 4 will get soldered with heat shrink. The alarm module is next to delete.
STILL stripping...
****METHOD 1: SNIP THE WARNING LIGHT WIRES. The SRS controller is the bright orange module bolted to the underside of the dash in front of the glove box. It connects to the car harness through a round, 7-pin connector. The wire colors and functions are as follows:
1- brown, ground
2- red/black, central electric KL50
3- black/white, central electric N48
4- black /red, supply for DME relay
5- white, buzzer relay, seat belt
6- unused
7- yellow/black, airbag warning lamp
To keep the warning lights from activating, snip wires 5 and 7 on either the car side of the harness or at the controller itself. (Note: the wires directly attached to the controller are different colors). I didn't use this method because I didn't want to cut any wires in the car harness or controller. In any event, if you snip the wires or just leave the warning lights on, you do NOT KNOW THE STATUS OF THE SYSTEM. Therefore, I recommend the passenger side airbag also be removed or disconnected AT THE BAGS to ensure the bag contacts are shorted. This requires pulling the glove box, which is easily removed by taking out the 5 Phillips screws, the glove box light, and the glove box door. Removal of the passenger airbag is a PITA. I left mine intact, but disconnected.
METHOD 2: DISCONNECT THE CONTROLLER. This is the method I used. If you just disconnect the 7-pin connector the car won't start because the controller needs to send a signal to the DME relay via pin 4. This problem can be overcome by jumping pins 3 and 4 together so the relay receives a signal. The easiest method to do this is to use an old controller-side connector half from a bad controller... or the one from your old controller if you don't intend to use it again. This preserves the integrity of the stock wiring.
I suggest cutting all the wires off the back of the old plug except those corresponding to pins 3 and 4, solder or crimp those two wires together, and protect with shrink wrap or other suitable method (I sealed the back of the connector with RTV). Insert the modified plug into the car side connector half and the engine will start and function normally, and the warning lights will be deactivated :-)
I have one reservation about using this method however. In the event of a real crash that would have been sufficient to deploy the airbags, the controller interrupts power to the DME relay. This turns off the engine and fuel pump. By leaving the controller connected and snipping the warning light wires, this feature is retained. ****
Simply, cut wire 7, cut 5, temporarily butt spliced 3 and 4, car started right up. 3 and 4 will get soldered with heat shrink. The alarm module is next to delete.
STILL stripping...
