968to986

Hi everyone,

I'm in the middle of an engine-out reseal that is walking a fine line between reasonable and out of control. https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ut-reseal.html
There is going to be a good amount of work done, so I feel like it's going to be a healthy and strong motor (actually it already was strong). But I'm wanting to run 18 psi. So here's the plan to do this; let me know what you think!

What I'm doing:
New rod bearings with new nuts
New clutch
Comprehensive belt and water pump service
Refreshed head (guides, valve stem seals, skim the surface as minimally as possible)
Cometic head gasket with reused stock studs, new nuts and washers
Lindsey Racing steam vent (?)
K26-8

Previously installed:
Tial 38mm wastegate
LR manual boost controller
3.0 bar FPR
LR bypass valve
LR Max chips
Boost gauge
Gutted cat

Will also do:
Wideband gauge
Injector cleaning

What I don't plan to do:
MAF conversion
Bigger turbo
Exhaust

My Lindsey Racing chip set is for a K26-6, but I'm hoping to get away with using them to start. But maybe they'll run lean at that much boost on the K26-8? If so, an option I could do is the A-Tune that they're selling now, which sounds like a more sophisticated solution anyway with an AFM.

Alright, let's hear some of your thoughts.

Perry 951

That is pretty close to the setup I've run for 20 years (I have a MAF and 42lb Delphi disc injectors). It ran 18psi for 90% of it's 70K miles, 21psi at it's highest. It's getting a refresh this year due to balance shaft seal leaks.

Personally, I would change the head studs and think about larger injectors.

zmf

One part that jumps out at me because mine is currently under the knife is the "skim the surface" part. Are you referring to the head/block surface at the head gasket? If so, you might check on what a cometic gasket needs for best results. If not, ignore this.
One question is what prompted you to add the "steam vent"? I thought about it -- haven't done it because I blew the head gasket near piston #1, which made me think I had other overheating issues.

rlm328

Definitely do the LR steam vent. Your engine will be making higher temps at 18 psi and the #4 cyl is a known problem.

968to986

As in new OEM studs or Raceware/ARP? I've definitely considered upgrading the injectors, but it adds more money to a snowballing effort. One thought is to monitor with the Wideband first and if I need more fueling, I can add bigger injectors later without too much trouble.

Hopefully the block won't have to be surfaced, so I was referring to the head to gasket surface. There were no issues with the head gasket, so hopefully everything is still nice and straight.
It does seem like a good idea, and it's not expensive or too difficult with the head off.

fast951

Unless you resurface both block and head, I'll skip the Cometic HG. I would use the Widefire gasket, I used it with 28psi boost (big turbo, race gas proper tune on the track).

Monitoring AFRs is great. I would add a Knock monitor, just as important.

rlm328

I like the cometic gaskets but I am also using it to make up for skimming my block 1 too many times. Widefire may help, but also a well prepped surface also is important, a finish of 50 RA or finer is recommended for the cometic,

968to986

Droops83

Your chips *might* be OK for the slightly larger turbo hot side, but your engine will theoretically be more efficient and move more air after a fresh valve job, so your baseline will change. It's not 1991 anymore (though with the popularity of Redwood and the like, it seems a lot of people wish it was!). I think it is silly to spend all of the money on the hardware and not incorporate at least a basic means of fine-tuning the system. A-Tune is inexpensive and simple to install, and many here have had good experiences with A-Tune and M-Tune.

Stephencs601

I did that and a Garrett Turbo, 80lb injectors, 4' exhaust too

zmf

"As in new OEM studs or Raceware/ARP?"

How do you guys feel about which head studs? I'm at this point in a repair, and am getting conflicting advice. One camp says Raceware are stronger/better, while another camp says that Porsche studs will flex with heat/stress and be better in the long run.

mj951

I believe there's a Max chip set for the K26-8, not sure how the K26-6 will fair.
Also believe you'd see some decent improvements by opening up the exhaust, especially if currently running stock. (Cat delete, 3" or both)

bumflick

I'd suggest a 3 inch downpipe, 3 inch exhaust.

i also don't understand your reluctance to upgrade the injectors... the cost is not significant, but i reapect your plan to base the decision on actual AFR data.

Malcolm