I know the process for doing this task, but here I am again spending countless time on raising the car. I have a floor jack and 2 jack stands, which I used to do my shocks. Since I didn't have to remove the tires for this job and since I'm also going to do an oil change I bought a set of rhino ramps. I don't love the whole jacking up of the car and would rather drive up on ramps. Seems much easier. The plan was to back the rear of the car up on the ramps and bang this job out, only to read that the car needs to be level. Any tips/tricks on how I can get around this one? Was thinking to use some sort of driveway with a decline that I can back down and onto the ramps and keep the front of the car at the level point of the driveway and before the decline. Was also starting to think about the front spoiler hitting the floor as the rear goes up the ramps. I really don't want to turn this into a science project if I don't have to.

 

Drive the front onto ramps, then jack up the rear and put it on stands. You might need to put some pavers under the rear wheels as you drive up the ramps so that you can get the jack under the back.

 

 

Yes, car should be level when adding fluid.
As suggested above, buy 2 more stands because, owning a 951, you will need all 4 again in the future...

 

You'll want to get use to working under your car.

Helps to have 6-ton jack stands but you'll need at least 2, 4 is better, smaller 3-ton stands to get the car up onto the 6-ton stands.
No worries once up on those. Solid and more room to work, thou you still need to be safe.

 

what the good sauce these days for an open-diff 951 box?

 

 

I routinely jack one side of the car with a floor jack (under the diamond with jack socket/puck thing) and then slide a ramp under the rear tire and a jack stand under the front rail. Then I repeat on other side, with the ramp pointing in opposite direction so that the car can't roll in either direction. Oh, and get Esco jack stands -- you'll never use anything else once you do.

 

I was able to jack up the left rear, drain the tank and then lowered the car to let whatever else drain out. Was able to then fill and get both bolts back on without having to raise the car again. Fluid pump worked awesome.

By any chance would the change in fluid help my clutch pedal sticking issue or not related?

 

Not related. If the clutch pedal isn't coming up all the way, it's probably the hydraulics. If so, change the master, slave, and hose in between all at once, as one new part will often cause the old parts to fail.

 

This^^^^^

And for this replacement, you will want 4 jack stands.

 

$60 a gallon

 

Swepco is #1 as far as I'm concerned.

That's all we race, engine, transmission and I use their grease products as well.

Top rate stuff, track proven.

Like an engine, it's a good idea to get the transmission warm/hot before you turn loose the drain plug.

Fines are suspended before settling and fluid and particles will drain out 3 x as fast leaving less chance of particles settling in the case and being mixed up with your new oil.

T

 

BTW - Paragon Products keeps Swepco.

T

 

my trans is on the garage floor currently...i'll just give it a ride on the washing machine like a bored housewife, to get things stirred up first