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Tell me that isn't the procedure?
Clarify the question.
Are you asking do you have to remove the TEV to properly flush the evaporator core?
In post #27 above, it is suggested that yes, flush occurs with TEV removed.
So far, it appears to properly service an auto AC with unknown charge/oil history and a split open line from the compressor to the condensor, the following should be done:
1. Remove & replace the faulty line
2. Remove the TEV which is attached to the evaporator inside the dash
3. Remove compressor, drain oil, fill with proper amount, replace
4. Flush system with liquid of some sort (unsure how to plug hole from absent TEV?)
5. Vacuum system
6. Add more oil to the system (does chart amount include amount added to compressor or add additional?)
7. Add proper amount of refrigerent
8. Run system, check for more leaks
If other leaks found, start again from #1 (replacing leaking part)
Given all that work needed to properly replace a busted hose, esp the removing the dash & TEV part, I can't see anyone actually going through this. Not diy over a week on a Daily Driver!! And certainly not at shop rates.
Wow. No wonder so many AC systems aren't working. Can't believe this is the best the auto industry can come up with service-wise
Since the AC was working well for years until the hose split, and apparently had R134a in it, I think I'll just...
1. Remove the compressor, drain its oil, refill it;
2. Replace the split hose & replace the drier
3. Vacuum the system
4. Put a little more oil in it
5. Charge and see what happens
Given the prices of that hose, and unsure who can make up a replacement with bulk hose, I'm thinking of buying this AC hose clamping toolkit (about 150USD) and making my own. The crimping looks similar to other hoses incl fuel hoses above exhaust manifold. Maybe this is the next step to keeping a 30 year old 80s car going: become a hoser
Last edited by Dan Martinic; 06-05-2018 at 11:40 PM.
Reason: Corrected dollar from CAN to USD
Perfection can sometimes be the enemy of good enough. When my car wouldn't hold a charge for more than a month or so, I got a new barrier hose and o-rings from Griffiths (and I think a receiver/dryer though can't remember). I swapped that out, filled the system with eBay R12 and a can of R12 oil, until no more bubbles, and called it good. My point-and-shoot thermometer says the air coming out of the vents is in the mid-30's on an 80+ degree day, so hard to complain about that. It's been well over a decade and I've added maybe 4 or 5 cans over the years to keep it cold. Not perfect, but quick, easy, and good enough. I'm sure your full service list would be great (and more necessary if changing refrigerants) but I don't think you can expect to improve on the griffiths hoses for the money (nor probably match them for twice the money)....
Up until a year ago my A/C consisted of an arm out the window in weather less than 110 F. Essentially I had been living with a very clumsy belt tightening device (a.k.a. A/C compressor), since it was obviously leaking at the shaft and the compressor from my spare car had the exact same problem.
Since I do have a sense of "if it is there it should work", I ventured into resealing the spare compressor with a "Porsche Nippondenso Compressor 10P15 Seal Kit" from Griffiths. It was an interesting experience to do and realizing that rotary compressor actually contains (dual) pistons (actuated axially with a wobble plate). There were two steel sheets with their rubber (Viton?) peeling off, which I could not source. Fortunately I noticed that there was no peeling, where they were supposed to seal (clamped by other components), so I just cut off the peeling parts.
The end result: I now have a functioning A/C system.
i waited until i had the engine out to remove all the AC hardlines on the firewall. i took the hard lines and ac hoses to a hose shop, told them it was for AC and had them replace all the rubber sections with new crimps on original fittings.
late 944/951 is harder to get the evaporator out but it's doable if you have the time, in an early model it takes about an hour.
get a new condenser, new dryer, and new "reman" compressor...so the only thing that will need flushing is the evaporator core and TXV (though the late 944 TXV is still readily available so you could buy a new one if you wanted). its been a few years, but i think i flushed out my evaporator with brake cleaner to get all the oil out, then blew compressed air thru it to dry the internal lines.
lots of new green o-rings, change the fittings to R134 style, R134-compatible oil in the compressor, assemble the system, vacuum it down to 29" and see if it holds overnight. if good the vacuum is useful to suck the first bit of freon into the system out of the can.
Here’s a picture of the split hose. There is more to it than rubber, and this braided part inside actually looks like it’s not leaking. Certainly, the green liquid coming out the ends isn’t coming out in the split area
I’m going to replace this hose, fill with some cans, and see if it holds. If, as I suspect, something else is leaking (ie, compressor), given how much in parts I’ve spent since Sept, I’m gonna draw the line and call it quits for AC this season.
i just gave away that hose to someone else a few weeks ago..
you should be able to get a hose shop to rebuild that one with the original fittings and new crimps for $50 or so.
be sure to tell them its AC hose for R134, needs to be 300psi safe or better.
06-05-2018 | 11:19 AM
I'm sure your full service list would be great (and more necessary if changing refrigerants) but I don't think you can expect to improve on the griffiths hoses for the money (nor probably match them for twice the money)....
