When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Weld in cages are going to be stronger, but you can get a certified bolt-in which will do the job and may be more convenient if you are not building a car from the ground up. For example, I have a Safety Devices bolt-in in my car. They were FIA certified back in 1989.
Dubai 944 I like your fire extinguisher setup. Any more details?
Its a SPA Firesense suppression system with a mechanical cable activation. Pull the handle and discharge is to two nozzles in the engine bay and one in the cabin. you can see the red cabin nozzle mounted on the right hand cage leg.
Its a SPA Firesense suppression system with a mechanical cable activation. Pull the handle and discharge is to two nozzles in the engine bay and one in the cabin. you can see the red cabin nozzle mounted on the right hand cage leg.
”REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT”
[OT]There’s a blast from my past, lol. As a former 1st line aircraft engineer I’ve removed a few of those from undercarriages.[/OT]
LOOKING GREAT BUDDY.
May I suggest not fully welding the door bars until your seat position is 100% determined? Mostly to avoid elbow & knee knocking. Secondly, to verify climbing in and out is okay.
I hope you guys don't mind if we occassionally drift slightly into things related to roll cages?
Here are my pedal "baller on a budget" modifications to support sliding the seat rearward. The pedals are all 3" rear of factory. The box on the right is the throttle "stop" and the last photo shows where I extended the throttle linkage 3". Please note the tack weld on the circular floor plug. This is to prevent it from disengaging with my gas pedal as I now have nut inserts to mount that pedal.
LOOKING GREAT BUDDY.
May I suggest not fully welding the door bars until your seat position is 100% determined? Mostly to avoid elbow & knee knocking. Secondly, to verify climbing in and out is okay.
Originally Posted by Noahs944
Thanks mate,
Oh im not welding anything until im good and ready. It's all tacked into place at the moment. I hope you guys don't mind if we occassionally drift slightly into things related to roll cages?
Here are my pedal "baller on a budget" modifications to support sliding the seat rearward. The pedals are all 3" rear of factory. The box on the right is the throttle "stop" and the last photo shows where I extended the throttle linkage 3". Please note the tack weld on the circular floor plug. This is to prevent it from disengaging with my gas pedal as I now have nut inserts to mount that pedal.
nice work on the extensions, do they feel any different? I've got a Tilton floor mount pedals that i'll be installing. As it's an auto chassis, makes it easier going manual too.
Paully, I love those pedal boxes (though never have had the joy of driving with them). I really like how you can move the pedal boxes unlike oem where you have to move the seat. Which is perfectly fine until you bolt in position a fixed racing bucket seat. I installed the dead pedal and gas pedal cover last night, put grip tape on the middle pedals. How do they feel? The dead pedal feels better than factory because in these cars the carpet adds about 1+ inch/26+mm and now I brought it level with the brake pedal. This photo distorts the image but the clutch pedal is resting higher than the brake pedal. This is because I use 19mm freeplay at the clutch pedal & when freeplay is gone the pedals are the same. I won't know how they feel until the hydraulics are bled.
While you are in there modifying you may want to place a floorboard in the foot well while you are at it. I found the floorboard gets very warm with all the insulation removed, so I cut a piece of aluminum to fit and placed 1/2" spacers between it and the original floorboard makes for a lot less heat on the feet.
Max Energy, I noticed you included some tubes from the rear seat area to the main hoop. What is the purpose of this? I noticed the drift cars have a regulation for some type of reinforcement to prevent the drive wheels from harming occupants... could this be your reason? I wanted to run tubes similar to a "cage this" design in case of a rear impact (will post a photo later). I ran out of tubing and needed to get this show on the road, so never added, but otherwise I think it's smart.
Paul, seen in these photos is some extra welds I added to the wheel well of the tub for this purpose, though it's not near as good as tube frame protection, it's certainly stronger then the factory spot-welds.
05-04-2018, 01:03 AM
