Paulyy

Update on my cage.
It's now CAMS approved and registered. (The Confederation of Australian Motor Sport, our governing body for the FIA)
It's built to international racing specification for 1 driver and 1 passenger.

Also i didn't need to make some of the gussets as big as i did. i just felt like it really.

Noahs944

Holy ****!
Brother... so cool. I was thinking of asking for an update... but here you are. In a word... :Beautiful.

Paulyy

Thanks mate, It's been a while since i've worked on it, but the application processing took months as it wasn't urgent

rlm328

You would have to be a contortionist to get in and out of that thing. I would assume fat boys need not apply.

951and944S

Looks like some of the tubing 1.5" and some 1.75"....?

Are the windshield post sheet extensions dimple die'ed...?

T

951and944S

With the seat in (RHD), it's gonna be tight but it depends how you get in and out.

With the door open, my left hand on the door, right hand on the roof, I kinda press my weight off the ground and go in feet first kinda like a spear...



T

{edit} I also put my helmet on after I'm seated.

Paulyy

Ha. Mate im tall but slim. i have fun getting in and out.

1.75" for the main hoop and 1.5" for the rest of it are the requirements.
And yeah the a pillar gussets are all dimple die'ed.

RoyaleWithCheese

This weekend I'm welding in some FIA spec seat mounts for my car that I fabbed up. The front mount ties from the frame rail across to the tunnel.

Can anyone share the sheet metal gauge thickness for various parts of the chassis? I'm looking for front frame rails, tunnel, floor pans, rail section left and right of the rear seat, rear frame section behind the rear wheel tubs. I would assume the frame rail section is maybe a bit thicker than a floor pan but I'm just not sure.

I just want to make sure I get a lot of practice this Saturday welding thick (1/8") to thin sheet metal before I weld them in on Sunday so that I don't accidentally blow holes through the cars sheet metal.

Once the seats are in it's cage time!

GPA951s

I use a TIG just because I have allot more control. But concentrate your heat on the thicker part and "wash" the puddle towards the thinner stuff.. I was able to lay some nice beads on the sheet metal.... ALSO VERY IMPORTANT... Make sure the top side is clean, and I don't mean dirt.. the galvanized has to be completely off for it to take the weld. The next thing you have to watch out for is that the backside is also galvanized and if the metal gets overheated it will POP ( The galvanized reacts terribly like a volcano) , and blow a hole in it.. If you have a MIG then I would recommend Short Bursts attaching to the OEM metal on the car. That's (for me) the advantage of the Tig, I can continue a bead by starting my arc on the previous weld bead and not pile a bunch of material on it, then add filler rod when I get to the edge..GOOD Luck.. and Post Pics.. :-)