mtnman82

As the thread title says, it's been 2+ years since I started the old gal up. I seem to remember a couple different methods for ensuring the oil pump is primed and wanted to verify with the collective here - cranking without the DME relay and/or pressurizing through the dipstick tube. First seems straightforward, as long as the battery holds up (it's being charged overnight). Could someone point me to the thread or article on pressurizing through the dipstick tube? And if there are other options I'm all ears.

Really looking forward to getting her smogged and then back on the road again. Thanks!

shortyboy

Other methods of getting oil primed is taking off the oil filter and pouring oil in the center hole. The fastest way is to pull DME relay and fuel pump fuse. Crank until you have pressure. I tried the air down dipstick method but i burst the air, cause I didn't have a regulator. I think it's 15 psi. Any more you'll risk the oil pan gasket. I'd replace fuel filter while your at and drain bad gas out. And run fuel injector cleaner after getting her started.

Droops83

Pressurizing through the dipstick tube? That is not a good idea as the crankcase would be pressurized with air, which would likely not provide additional pressure to the liquid engine oil circuit, and it could also potentially cause more problems than it would solve (blowing seals out, etc).

If the battery is strong, remove the DME relay and crank the engine (in 20 second increments or less to avoid overheating the starter) until oil pressure builds on the factory gauge.

V2Rocket

i also pull the wire between distributor and coil to ensure no wayward spark.

pouring oil down the filter hole is a pretty good idea. remember the "outside" concentric hole is from the pump, "inside" hole goes on to the rest of the engine.

i just did an engine-out HG and reseal on my Subaru and pre-oiled everything by getting a hose barb fitting in place of the oil pressure sender and hooking up to a handheld fluid transfer pump with the "feed" hose in a jug of oil.

once the oil gets into the passageways and starts finding restrictions the pumping gets much more difficult, just push thru it. i was able to hand-pump a full QT into the engine this way. the pump was $16 at Oreilly.

audisport

GTA_G20

My question to you would be at what point would the gasoline expire and go bad . I'm in the same situation as OP

audisport

gruhsy

Just fill the tank full of new fuel...drop in a bottle of octane boost if so inclined and drive around until you use up the first tank of fuel then good to go. I park my car every fall and pull it out in the spring. Done that every year since 1993

mtnman82

Mr. Murphy always seems to be present in my life...

I had a heck of a time finding a battery. Not only have the process skyrocketed (maybe it's a California thing?) but I all the group 48 batteries are taller now. I settled on a group 36(? - it's a B6 and measures 11x7x7, same as the Duralast group 48 it replaced). Went to Autozone, O'Reilly's, KMart and WalMart. Wound up with a Die Hard - I know they aren't what they used to be..

I pulled the DME relay and fuel pump fuse, and cranked in 20 second intervals until I saw the oil pressure needle move up a tic. I couldn't get it above the first line and figured it was because I was cranking with the starter so put the fuse and relay back in and after about 10 seconds the old gal started right up. However, big rattle from the engine bay. I only left her running for about 30 seconds (maybe a bit less). I'm thinking it may be one of the lifters? And if so, is there a chance running it at idle for a bit might pump the lifter back up? I'm kicking myself for not starting her up every few months... So let her run for a while, or am I looking at pulling the cam tower, pulling the lifters and soaking for a while?

Dan Martinic

Tedro951

If it's a lifter it will probably quiet down within 5 mins or so. Hold RPMs up to 3000 or so for a few minutes and see.

mtnman82

From searching on this forum I surmised group 41 is factory and group 48 would also fit. The car had a group 48 when I bought it and that's what I've replaced them with when needed. However the new style group 48's I ran across are taller and the terminals seemed to be getting mighty close to the hood. I have limited choices in my small town, so resorted to finding something with the correct terminal configuration, comparable size measurements, and at least 650 CCA.

I'm hoping it's a lifter that was making the racket. Upon a quick inspection the noise seemed to be coming from the cam tower or that area. I'm assuming from Tedro's post that no damage will occur if it is indeed a lifter and I hold the rpm's at 3000 for a few minutes?

Thanks for the help/input!

Tom M'Guinn

Glad you're getting it going again! Lifters will make a racket when they drain out -- most likely that's what you are hearing. If enough of them are try, the motor will sound remarkably like an old diesel engine. They can be stubborn, sometime requiring a good drive around town to get them back to normal. If unsure, post a video and we can probably tell. Did the oil pressure came up to normal after a few seconds of running? If not, don't drive it around town yet

mtnman82

Hi Tom! Yep, the oil pressure came up almost immediately after I started her up, It would only come up to not quite the first hash mark when cranking with the starter, but it did move so I assumed the pump was primed. I'm very much looking forward to getting her running and driving regularly again! I should have some time to record a video tomorrow night and will post. Thanks for the input!

gruhsy

When I bought my car it had only 40000km on it...less than 25000 original miles. The car had sat from 1999 to 2008. The lifters made a huge racket when the engine was cold, but as it warmed up the noise disappeared. Of course I swapped it for a 3.0L but there was nothing else wrong with the motor.