I have read the excellent posts on r&r -ing the radiator plastic end caps and plan to try this winter. However, I can't find where to buy the replacement seal and/or plastic cap.

Where does everyone get these?

 

The aluminum folding tabs that lock the tank are going to break when you try to remove the tank, much less after you try and bend them back again to reclamp the tank.

T

 

Hi,
the 928 guys have located suitable new seals and replacement plastic tanks for their radiators.
You might try them (928srus.com) and maybe their source has 951 stuff too.

 

Of course! I got the idea from one of their write-ups which makes it seem very possible http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...8/MyTip862.htm

Will try there thanks

 

Or buy a full aluminium 944 turbo radiator?

 

One trick I've successfully used on sealing an aluminum radiator for a BMW 325is was to use JB Weld:

1.) I did a low pressure test of the radiator on a bench, using positive pressure from a shop vac fitted to seal to the radiator neck, and a squirt bottle of soapy water to find the bubble traces of the leaks. (This is the same procedure as finding a leak on a tire.)

2.) Clean the area of the leaks with acetone and a toothbrush, including drawing the acetone down into and through the leaks using vacuum to the radiator. (Reverse the flow of the shop vac to suck the acetone well into the crack.)

3.) With the radiator leaks identified and cleaned, dry with heat gun or hair dryer.

4.) Mix JB weld per instructions, then dilute with acetone to make it thin and runny. This is the JB Weld factory suggestion on thinning their product, which then allows the thinned epoxy to be drawn down into and through the radiator leak by sucking with the shop vac.

5.) Once the thinned JB Weld/acetone mix is drawn through the radiator cracks, set the radiator so the mix then flows level on the back (interior) side of the mend. The epoxy then solidifies with a flange on either side (inside and outside) of the leak, a sort of extended rivet which grips and seals to both inside and outside of the crack. Let it cure 24 hours, perhaps kicked off with a heat gun or hair dryer to catalyze the cure.


I did this on my BMW 325is about 6 years ago, so far holding up fine. Cost was about 50 cents worth of JB Weld and acetone.

 

My understanding is the all-alluminum units don't fit exact; one of the holes isn't right?

I don't think I have any cracks, but the working JB weld story sure is a rare one!

 

Not sure but Id be buying a PWR one if i had a choice.