B951S

Here;s my pan after installing the pegs. I used the 3M adhesive on all surfaces. Had to use long bolts with old gasket spaces to start pulling the pegs into the gasket when installing. Made up to torque with not a bulge in sight Thanks John!

B951S

Another..

jc22

Is this 3M adhesive strong enough to hold the gasket to the block while the engine is in the car? I think I'll give this "peg" thing a try and it would make it easier to line up the gasket on the block if you could
1)attach gasket to block and line up bolt holes
2)attach "pegged" oil pan to the gasket
3)torque to specs

Also, if the pegs are only 1/4 inch long are the stock oil pan bolts long enough to pull the pan up and penetrate the gasket?

This will be the last time I pull the oil pan so I want to do everything I can to make sure it doesn't leak.

John Anderson

B951S,

The pegs are lower in height than the little aluminum spacers in the gasket right? YOur job looks top notch! Just making sure the gasket gets full compression thats all, if the pegs are too high, they will act as a spacer instead. It does look good though!

Take Care!

AlexE

b951s.

What size of rod did you use to make these pegs?

Did you loctite the pegs to secure into the holes you drilled?Did you press these little pegs in? John mentioned to make the hole a notch smaller than the peg.

How far into the pan did you drill?

It looks nicely done. How about a couple more pegs on the ends (corners)?

B951S

John
What I did was after tapping the rivit home carfully without bending it, I laid an old spacer over it and lightly pinched the rivit with wire cutter, I then removed the spacer and cut the rivit with clipper slightly below the mark. After doing them all I double checked with an old spacer and a flat edge to make sure they were all slightly below.

Alex E, I used a 1/16" drill and drilled down about 3/16 to 1/4 in depth making sure not to break through the pan flange. The rivits were some I have laying aroung, probably 3/32 or so.

JC22, I thought about putting the gasket on the pan over the rivits but decied to bond the gasket to the block first and use 4 long bolts offset equally around the center with 2 old gasket spacers to pull the pan up slowly and stab the gasket, the normal bolts will not reach. Once the pan has started to move up, you can make up the normal bolts and remove the long bolt / spacers and put them in there proper corner spots.

Its a lot harder with the motor in car that out, but if everything is clean, clean clean, and after the adhesive is tacky, you can work under the car to carefully place the flywheel end curved piece in the groove and slowly make your way forward ensuring the blot holes line up, tacking the gasket down as you go. The adhesive is very stong and easily holds the gasket in place.

jc22

Perfect!! Thanks B951S that's exactly what I wanted to know.

Mike S

Where are you guys finding this 3M adhesive? I see it on mail order, but did anyone find it at local stores?

Sean Hall

Those rivets poke into the gasket, right? Why not use the sharp side of the rivets for easier pokering? ;P Great idea though.

In my car, I've done this job twice. Both times, I used no adhesive on the gasket, except for the corners where I used Permatex Ultra Grey Silicon.

Sean

B951S

Sean
When the rivits are clipped down to size they are left with a fairly sharp point on them that works pretty well at stabbing the gasket.

I can see it now, I am sitting here praising this method and I don't even have my car running yet, sods law says when I getting running it will leak!! FIngers crossed.

I got my adhesive from the home depot.

Danno

From reading those past threads, it appears that Ahmet's problem was due to using an early oil pick-up tube and screen with a late oil-pan. The tube is a little longer and would hit the pan before the pan was fully torqued up onto the bottom of the engine.

I too replaced my oil-pan gasket 3 times in one month. It almost doesn't matter what adhesive/sealant you use, but I found that letting it dry and get tacky was important. Then install it lightly and lightly torque the pan bolts, say... 3-4 lb/ft only to get an even seal and squeeze out any excess sealant. Let sit overnight to dry and cure. Then come back in the morning and finish the torquing sequence. The idea is not to torque it when the sealant is still wet or else it'll act as lubricant allowing your gasket to squeeze out.

The stuff I used was 3M Fastak #08031 weatherstripping adhesive that I used to glue the sew-up tires onto my rims when I was racing bikes (Tour de France type). Figured if it was good for holding 125psi tires onto beadless rims, a measly little oilpan should be fine. I even tested it out later by driving for a week with the oil-pan bolts fully loosened. Removal however, was quite a pain and required chiselling the gasket off the block and pan.

B951S

Danno
I followed what you did and once the yammabond was applied, let it sit overnight only very lightly nipped up, but it still bulged the next day when torqued. Anyway, we'll see how this one goes......

B951S

Fuc*!!
I just got back after a thrash about before taking a months vacation, the damn gakets blown out between 2 bolts near the dipstck tube....this car is staring to really **** me off

I guess I know what I will be doing when I get back from my truip...

David Floyd

Your gasket blew out with the pegs ??????

keith

Try David Salama's oil cap vent trick until your rings are fully seated.