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The dreaded oilpan gasket 'bulge'.....

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Old 12-08-2003, 12:38 AM
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B951S
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Angry The dreaded oilpan gasket 'bulge'.....

In the process of resealing my oilpan, I used yammabond-4 and after torquing the nuts per the factory procedures, there is some bulging out of the gasket between blots. The worst one in about 3/8" more than the rest of the gasket. How much is acceptable....I guess the right answer is none, but has anyone had succes with resealing an oil pan after experiencing bulging during the original install???? It would not be good to put the crossover and x/member back on just to tear it down again.
Old 12-08-2003, 01:49 AM
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Ahmet
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I did it perhaps 7 times, what finally worked for me was clean surfaces on both sides, a bit of orange glue (loctite 7 something) only on the corners, torque sequence followed closely. Yamabond did not work for me, I believe others may have had different results.
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:13 AM
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Are you sure that none of the spacers fell out?


Old 12-08-2003, 03:22 AM
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Steve Lavigne
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Originally posted by Ahmet
I did it perhaps 7 times, what finally worked for me was clean surfaces on both sides, a bit of orange glue (loctite 7 something) only on the corners, torque sequence followed closely. Yamabond did not work for me, I believe others may have had different results.
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:25 AM
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reno928s
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B951s, I just went through the same process with my car. The first mechanic used the Yammabond and it also bulged out as yours did. The second mechanic from porsche told me that the surfaces must be extremely clean of any oil residue and dry. He also said that the corners are the only place you put sealant. I remember him saying that the sealant is the type that cures without air, don't remember the name but I can find out if you like. Reno
Old 12-08-2003, 09:48 AM
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B951S
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Reno, yes pls, if you could get me the name of the sealant you used in the corners, hopefully it will be something I can get off the shelf locally.

I checked it this morning before leaving for work and it had bulged out all over the place pretty badly overnight. I will order a new gasket today and try it dry.

Ahmet, great to hear you finally got yours to work, I remember reading your threads and thinking 'man, that sucks!' but hear I am. Hopefully I will get it next time.

Thanks
Old 12-08-2003, 10:34 AM
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I used Yamabond without much success. I had the engine up side down on an engine stand (so it was absolutely clean and dry). But it would still bulge out,even with the first torque sequence (4ft/lbs).

In the end, I ended up putting Yamabond to both sides of the gasket. I let it get very tacky overnight,so when I did the final 7ft/lbs torque sequence the next day,it helped the bulging a little bit. After driving 7000 miles,I have no oil leak,but I still don't like the bulging.

I really think that the oil pan should have a lip all around to prevent the gasket from popping out.
Old 12-08-2003, 11:05 AM
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Matt H
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I used standard gasket adhesive and it worked just fine. Was a bitch from underneath though! Good thing I had lots of able hands to help.
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Old 12-08-2003, 12:26 PM
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John Anderson
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we use the super heavy duty 3M spray adheasive, it workls great, you coat both sides of the gasket, let it get really tacky, almost dry..then torque it down. On the race engines, I drill the pan and put "pins" around the gasket surface, spaced evenly between the gaskt holes. YOu could set off dynamite in the pan and the gasket won't budge :-)

Take Care!
Old 12-08-2003, 12:35 PM
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I forget the name but fel-pro makes it it's an anaerobic sealer, spray adhesive also works well, hylomar will also work.
Old 12-08-2003, 01:42 PM
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AlexE
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Originally posted by John Anderson
we use the super heavy duty 3M spray adheasive, it workls great, you coat both sides of the gasket, let it get really tacky, almost dry..then torque it down. On the race engines, I drill the pan and put "pins" around the gasket surface, spaced evenly between the gaskt holes. YOu could set off dynamite in the pan and the gasket won't budge :-)

Take Care!
That should get the post of the week award.



THANK YOU. Great idea.
Old 12-08-2003, 01:45 PM
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Dave951M
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John-

Care to elaborate on the procedure? I'm going into my engine this spring and it sounds like something I would like to do.
Old 12-08-2003, 02:47 PM
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John Anderson
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Its actually quite easy. I use rivet shafts for the pins. First select a drill bit that is just slightly smaller in dia. than the shaft (you want the pin to stay in), and drill a hole (not all the way thru the pan lip) about 1/8th" deep. tap the rivet in, then cutt he shaft so that its height is just below the aluminum spacer in the gasket. Use the adheasive to lock the gasket to the block, then slowly lower the pan (with pins) onto the gasket while keeping it lined up. Torque to specs. This holds very well.
Old 12-08-2003, 02:58 PM
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Dave951M
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John-

From your description, you're not drilling any matching holes or detents into the gasket. It's more like a "stake" that pins the gasket into place but doesn't penetrate the gasket spacer. Correct? Next, what adhesive are you using for the block side and would you think it worthwhile to do the same thing on the block side for a little insurance?
Old 12-08-2003, 03:15 PM
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John Anderson
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The pins do penetrate the gasket, the pins protrude from the flat edge of the oil pan, about 1/4" high, they are spaced with one pin between each existing hole in the pan. So basically, you are pushing the oil pan down onto the gasket with pins sinking into the gasket between each pan bolt.

Hope this makes sense!


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