this should help.

 

Thanks for the pix John. That saves about 2k words worth of explaining! I'll do the same to my street car this spring.

 

Thanks as well John. That picture is worth a thousand words.

 

No problemo, let me know if there are any other tricks I can share :-)

Take care

 

Great tip john, Is the 3M adhesive you use just regular general purpose adhesive?? I have some 3M spay on trim adhesive, will that work?
Thanks

 

Well................... since you are asking ... how do you properly sleeve a 2.8.



Just kidding.

Apprecite your advice and expertise.

 

B951,

This is the stuff I use, I know others use there favorite flavor, but remember, I only use it to hold the gasket still while lowing the pin'd oilpan to it. On the other hand, its sticky as h*ll!!

To properly sleeve to a 2.8 liter, drink alot and use a 15lb sledge hammer, the sleeve goes in easier if you use a lot of butter and do it on a warm day.



Take Care!

 

Great, appreciate the pic. So you dont apply it all over the gasket, just enough to hold it at a few spot?

 

I just hit both sides, not a lot, you don;t want it dripping off, just a film.

 

B951S the sealant is Loctite 574 as spec'd in the manual, and it may be hard to find. The dealer should have it, if not EBS Racing does. I went dry and super clean with the 574 used only in the corners and no leaks or bulging gasket.

 

John
I got the pan out and cleaned off all the old yammabond, a chore in itself. I tried to trial fit one of the pegs and it works well with rivits like you describe, once cut down they are quite solid and easly penetrate the gasket. I will install the pegs tomorrow,

I went out and got some 3M 90 adhesive and will install the lot when the new gaskets comes tommorrow. Just to run it by you once more if I may...

1) clean all surfaces
2) coat BOTH sides of gasket with 3M adhesive
3) Lock gasket to block
4) Make up pan evenly to stab pegs

Do you apply the 3M adhesive to the block and / or pan surfaces also? and do you still use some sealant in the corners or just go with the glued gasket?

Thanks in advance,

 

B951S,

Sounds like your on track, believe me, you will never have a gasket blow out! Even when I blew our piston out on our NA race car (3.2 liter bore, stroke, 14.5:1 compression) the blow by didn't move the gasket! As for coating the surface of the pan or the block, You could, but its not going to be needed. remember, the "pegs+ (great description, can I steal it?), will hold the gasket in place once you do the torque. THe Spray is just used to keep the gasket in place on the block while you secure the pan. Glad your trying it, as you see, the gasket is very easy to stab with the PEGS, so there is no need to adjust the factory torque specs. As for any sealant in the corners. I never had a call out to use them...I know "GASP", but the manual says this and that...but that aside, if the gasket sits, and does not move, the PEGS and the adhesive will keep it good to go.

Please keep us all posted on the final outcome, I'm hoping this tip will help alot of other people that have problems with the gasket getting pushed out due to oily surfaces/pressure or to use a simple term hydraulics.

Take Care!

 

John, I didn't notice any dowels on the last 2 of your motors we installed. In any event, both gaskets blew out on the track, so if they weren't dowelled, the adhesive isn't working either.

BTW, I don't think the oil pan gaskets are likely to stay in, short of installing a retaining lip, until the rings are seated (my opinion, of course).

 

Ok everyone here is what I used on my 951, I did the pan gasket once and made the mistake of using some gasket sealant, and within day the gasket what bulging out between just about every bolt. I talked to a friend of mine who works at a Porsche shop, and he said to use contact cement. I went home took the car apart applied contact cement to both the block and pan waited about five minutes I think, or whatever the bottle says. I then had a friend help me put the gasket to the block using the bolts to hold it straight after it was dry enough to leave it alone I installed the pan which I had cleaned beyond belief and torqued it to spec. From that time on my pan gasket never leaked again.

 

Potent..

I too willl do this, the 3M 90 adhesive that John recommends is some serious ****, I tried with my old gasket on some aluminium. I will also do the pegs for a belt and braces....Even though I let the yammabond dry, I found it still provided too much lubricity allowing the gasket to bulge. I won't try it again.