Porsche 944 Turbo restomod
08-07-2017, 02:36 PM
#17
Looks great! Nice work.
I vote for the 2.5T from the TTRS, if only for the sound. I'm not sure how the bellhousing works with it being a transverse engine though.
I don't know what year the CEPA code is. I think the current Mk3 TTRS (and RS3) use an aluminum block, the Mk2 is iron, which you probably know.
I vote for the 2.5T from the TTRS, if only for the sound. I'm not sure how the bellhousing works with it being a transverse engine though.
I don't know what year the CEPA code is. I think the current Mk3 TTRS (and RS3) use an aluminum block, the Mk2 is iron, which you probably know.
08-10-2017, 04:13 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Pics look awesome! Interested to understand the finish on the silver aluminium parts ie transmission casing and torsion bar mounts ... are they glass bead blasted or painted?
08-10-2017, 05:28 PM
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
The body has been thoroughly cleaned and on sone locations been sand-blasted to remove some rust. Serious rust has been cut out and replaced with original Porsche body parts.
I did consider dipping the complete body and giving it a KTL treatment. Including bodywork this would have set me back approx. 10K USD.
Removing the bodyschutz on the bottom of the car dud take me a lot of hours. I'm glad I did remove the bodyschutz because it revealed some rust.
Last edited by Frank@Work; 08-10-2017 at 06:49 PM. Reason: typo
08-10-2017, 06:49 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Spend some time on assembling the 968 cup mirrors. Makes you sweat when working with freshly paint parts!
I have read several how to's on assembling the mirrors and choose a slightly modified version.
I did not wanted to use a hook eye so I deceided to go for a wing type hose clamp.
Above the parts for the spring assembly.
Below the parts for the tool.
The spring assembly.
Close up of the modified ring which is situated at the bottom of the spring assembly. You would want to have some access to the sleeves in the bottom of the spring assembly.
The spring assembly with the tool. Missing from the tool are the wing typed hose clamp, the large ring and the nut.
Place the parts in the picture above in the mirror foot.
Place the mirror foot in the mirror. Make sure the spring assembly is situated correctly. You should not be able to turn the spring assembly.
On the inside of the mirror place the wing typed hose clamp over the bolt. The hose clamp should clear the hole through which the spring assembly will be pressed. Make sure the hose clamp is high enough to give enough room for the spring assembly.
Place the large ring on top of the hose clamp. The ring has to be larger in diameter than the hose clamp. (duh!).
Place the nut on the bolt insinde the mirror and tighten it up.
Tighten up the nut at the bottom of the spring assembly until the spring assembly is as far in the foot as shown below.
At this point you should be able to use a small hammer and a screwdriver to turn the spring assembly. Place the screwdriver in one of the sleeves at the bottom of the spring assembly and hit the screwdriver gently with the hammer.
If you loosen up the nut, the spring assembly should stay in place!
Voilá.
Oh, and do check the mirror base before assembly. You don't want to out this in your mirror:
I have read several how to's on assembling the mirrors and choose a slightly modified version.
I did not wanted to use a hook eye so I deceided to go for a wing type hose clamp.
Above the parts for the spring assembly.
Below the parts for the tool.
The spring assembly.
Close up of the modified ring which is situated at the bottom of the spring assembly. You would want to have some access to the sleeves in the bottom of the spring assembly.
The spring assembly with the tool. Missing from the tool are the wing typed hose clamp, the large ring and the nut.
Place the parts in the picture above in the mirror foot.
Place the mirror foot in the mirror. Make sure the spring assembly is situated correctly. You should not be able to turn the spring assembly.
On the inside of the mirror place the wing typed hose clamp over the bolt. The hose clamp should clear the hole through which the spring assembly will be pressed. Make sure the hose clamp is high enough to give enough room for the spring assembly.
Place the large ring on top of the hose clamp. The ring has to be larger in diameter than the hose clamp. (duh!).
Place the nut on the bolt insinde the mirror and tighten it up.
Tighten up the nut at the bottom of the spring assembly until the spring assembly is as far in the foot as shown below.
At this point you should be able to use a small hammer and a screwdriver to turn the spring assembly. Place the screwdriver in one of the sleeves at the bottom of the spring assembly and hit the screwdriver gently with the hammer.
If you loosen up the nut, the spring assembly should stay in place!
Voilá.
Oh, and do check the mirror base before assembly. You don't want to out this in your mirror:
08-11-2017, 08:59 PM
#25
Pro
I have always loved the way this particular 951 looks.
Amazing thank you for sharing. Im glad you removed the side markers and changed out the rear bumper. What front and rear spoiler are you going with? Keeping with the pop-up headlights? Going with euro foglights?
super pumped on this build thank you for sharing.
08-12-2017, 03:08 AM
#26
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm living in Europe, so my car did not have the side markers and has the euro fog lights. The front and rear spoiler will remain stock, but I do like the splitter on your picture. I'm not sure I would have the splitter painted in the color of the car. The spare wheel bulge below the car has been removed to allow a oil cooler to be mounted inside the space in the rear diffusor.
The head lights will remain the stock popup lights, but with improved lenses.
For the turn signal indicators I will go for the stock orange lenses. Looks better on a white car.
The head lights will remain the stock popup lights, but with improved lenses.
For the turn signal indicators I will go for the stock orange lenses. Looks better on a white car.
08-12-2017, 12:34 PM
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Today I managed to repair the broken mirror motor!
I had another mirror motor assembly with a good gear. I pulled the gear from the mirror housing and then applied 5 volts to the wires. The motor pushed the gear almost completely out of the assembly. Next I was able to take the gear out of the assembly.
The same trick worked on the broken gear. After removing the broken gear I was able to get the good gear into the assembly by applying 5 volts to the same wires, but switched (power vs ground). The motor took the new gear in and I popped the gear into the housing.
The mirror is fully functional again!
I had another mirror motor assembly with a good gear. I pulled the gear from the mirror housing and then applied 5 volts to the wires. The motor pushed the gear almost completely out of the assembly. Next I was able to take the gear out of the assembly.
The same trick worked on the broken gear. After removing the broken gear I was able to get the good gear into the assembly by applying 5 volts to the same wires, but switched (power vs ground). The motor took the new gear in and I popped the gear into the housing.
The mirror is fully functional again!
