Break in fuel return hard line
05-21-2017, 07:11 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Break in fuel return hard line
Ah the saga continues.
Finally got the coupling off for the line going to the FP, and figured I'd give a good inspection of everything else fuel-related in the area.
In doing so, I found that the return hard line in front of the wheel, right where it goes into the rubber mounting hardware was cracked. Further inspection found that the line at that point was pretty well a solid mass of rust.
I disconnect the rubber line that was going from the stop valve to the hard line (IIRC, that protects things should the car flip), tried to blow through the hose and there was no way I could get anything threw it.
A couple of questions for those far smarter than I:
1. What sort of impact would this have had on the car? When I say the line was blocked, it was solid. Looking inside it, there was no room for anything.
2. My thought for repair is to cut the hard line a bit upward from where it was rusted, use a stretch of Porsche fuel line I've already acquired and then cut it to a length that's a bit longer than the original to make up for the loss of the rusted hard line. Any flaws in the approach?
2a. Should I go that route, is there any special tool/means to cut it?
Finally got the coupling off for the line going to the FP, and figured I'd give a good inspection of everything else fuel-related in the area.
In doing so, I found that the return hard line in front of the wheel, right where it goes into the rubber mounting hardware was cracked. Further inspection found that the line at that point was pretty well a solid mass of rust.
I disconnect the rubber line that was going from the stop valve to the hard line (IIRC, that protects things should the car flip), tried to blow through the hose and there was no way I could get anything threw it.
A couple of questions for those far smarter than I:
1. What sort of impact would this have had on the car? When I say the line was blocked, it was solid. Looking inside it, there was no room for anything.
2. My thought for repair is to cut the hard line a bit upward from where it was rusted, use a stretch of Porsche fuel line I've already acquired and then cut it to a length that's a bit longer than the original to make up for the loss of the rusted hard line. Any flaws in the approach?
2a. Should I go that route, is there any special tool/means to cut it?
05-21-2017, 08:37 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I have a section of rubber hose on my 87 S4, where years of prior sitting destroyed/plugged some of that return line. Cut at fresh spots, add rubber hose and clamps.
I simply inspect it every time a tire is off, and it's fine.
I simply inspect it every time a tire is off, and it's fine.
05-24-2017, 01:15 PM
#3
Ah the saga continues.
Finally got the coupling off for the line going to the FP, and figured I'd give a good inspection of everything else fuel-related in the area.
In doing so, I found that the return hard line in front of the wheel, right where it goes into the rubber mounting hardware was cracked. Further inspection found that the line at that point was pretty well a solid mass of rust.
I disconnect the rubber line that was going from the stop valve to the hard line (IIRC, that protects things should the car flip), tried to blow through the hose and there was no way I could get anything threw it.
A couple of questions for those far smarter than I:
1. What sort of impact would this have had on the car? When I say the line was blocked, it was solid. Looking inside it, there was no room for anything.
2. My thought for repair is to cut the hard line a bit upward from where it was rusted, use a stretch of Porsche fuel line I've already acquired and then cut it to a length that's a bit longer than the original to make up for the loss of the rusted hard line. Any flaws in the approach?
2a. Should I go that route, is there any special tool/means to cut it?
Finally got the coupling off for the line going to the FP, and figured I'd give a good inspection of everything else fuel-related in the area.
In doing so, I found that the return hard line in front of the wheel, right where it goes into the rubber mounting hardware was cracked. Further inspection found that the line at that point was pretty well a solid mass of rust.
I disconnect the rubber line that was going from the stop valve to the hard line (IIRC, that protects things should the car flip), tried to blow through the hose and there was no way I could get anything threw it.
A couple of questions for those far smarter than I:
1. What sort of impact would this have had on the car? When I say the line was blocked, it was solid. Looking inside it, there was no room for anything.
2. My thought for repair is to cut the hard line a bit upward from where it was rusted, use a stretch of Porsche fuel line I've already acquired and then cut it to a length that's a bit longer than the original to make up for the loss of the rusted hard line. Any flaws in the approach?
2a. Should I go that route, is there any special tool/means to cut it?
Totally confused on the implications of a 100% clogged return. Should it even run at that point??????
05-24-2017, 03:03 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
@Speedtoys - thanks for the confirmation. Will be doing the surgery soon.
@Dan - That's what I'm wondering as well. I can't figure it a good thing that the return line was broken/blocked, and I have to imagine that there was some sort of impact on the car.
My plan is to to jumper the FP with some fuel in the tank once I have things buttoned up. Before I reconnect the soft line to the return hard line, I'll see if I get any fuel dribbling out. If not, maybe I cut a little bit more.
But...that's the plan right now. Someone may tell me what I'm proposing is 100% stupid.
@Dan - That's what I'm wondering as well. I can't figure it a good thing that the return line was broken/blocked, and I have to imagine that there was some sort of impact on the car.
My plan is to to jumper the FP with some fuel in the tank once I have things buttoned up. Before I reconnect the soft line to the return hard line, I'll see if I get any fuel dribbling out. If not, maybe I cut a little bit more.
But...that's the plan right now. Someone may tell me what I'm proposing is 100% stupid.
05-24-2017, 09:23 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
I would call it a reasonable plan. I'm not sure there's another move anyway.
I think Dan's observations would be right about pressure going up, eventually the system would shut down and flood.
I can't remember if you have a pressure gauge on your fuel rail or not?
I would guess that it is a partial obstruction and maybe a weak pump that allow it to still run reasonably well.
I know it's turning into a rabbit hole buddy, but I'm glad you found it. The alternative would be worse...
I think Dan's observations would be right about pressure going up, eventually the system would shut down and flood.
I can't remember if you have a pressure gauge on your fuel rail or not?
I would guess that it is a partial obstruction and maybe a weak pump that allow it to still run reasonably well.
I know it's turning into a rabbit hole buddy, but I'm glad you found it. The alternative would be worse...
05-25-2017, 08:47 AM
#6
Ryan what you don't realize is that Dave secretly broke into your garage and plugged that line himself.
With his own ear wax and skin flakes.
With his own ear wax and skin flakes.
05-25-2017, 11:15 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Epidermis readily breaks down with petroleum products Dan, as you must know.
I used nostril and leg hair, in addition to ear wax.
I did not have to break in, it was easily done during the tour he gave me of his garage. As part of my plan to have the only running 928 in the upper Midwest.
You have been less of a threat over the years: as long as your engine remains in Tupperware containers...
Trending Topics
05-25-2017, 11:28 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Almost.
Epidermis readily breaks down with petroleum products Dan, as you must know.
I used nostril and leg hair, in addition to ear wax.
I did not have to break in, it was easily done during the tour he gave me of his garage. As part of my plan to have the only running 928 in the upper Midwest.
You have been less of a threat over the years: as long as your engine remains in Tupperware containers...
Epidermis readily breaks down with petroleum products Dan, as you must know.
I used nostril and leg hair, in addition to ear wax.
I did not have to break in, it was easily done during the tour he gave me of his garage. As part of my plan to have the only running 928 in the upper Midwest.
You have been less of a threat over the years: as long as your engine remains in Tupperware containers...
