Rusted Fuel Coupling Woes - Fixed
05-21-2017, 12:12 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
...
I had developed a leak at the fuel tank last year, and it was pointed out that the last line to the FF was not original. So, I decided to fix it up right. Obviously I have not been successful to this point
I had developed a leak at the fuel tank last year, and it was pointed out that the last line to the FF was not original. So, I decided to fix it up right. Obviously I have not been successful to this point
Why not split that female fitting with a Dremel and simply remove it? That will preserve the hard-line and the male half of the fitting, which is the part that is hard to find.
What you want to do is grind a slot most of the way through, but not deep enough to get into the threads. Grind another slot on the backside if you can get there, or just grind a flat to weaken the fitting. Make that first slot wide enough to get the tip of a sturdy screwdriver in there and twist. That will either split the fitting or loosen it enough to spin off with fingers.
Clean up the male threads, attach a new hose and viola!
What am I missing here?
05-21-2017, 12:33 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, Jim!
Ahh, gotcha, Thanks. So the hose from fuel-filter, through the foam tube, to that junction gets replaced-- correct? Which means the large (female) half of the fitting gets replaced also?? (Part# 928-356-053-01, $108 from Sunset, $60 used from 928 Int'l, I am sure Roger can get it also).
Why not split that female fitting with a Dremel and simply remove it? That will preserve the hard-line and the male half of the fitting, which is the part that is hard to find.
What you want to do is grind a slot most of the way through, but not deep enough to get into the threads. Grind another slot on the backside if you can get there, or just grind a flat to weaken the fitting. Make that first slot wide enough to get the tip of a sturdy screwdriver in there and twist. That will either split the fitting or loosen it enough to spin off with fingers.
Clean up the male threads, attach a new hose and viola!
What am I missing here?
Why not split that female fitting with a Dremel and simply remove it? That will preserve the hard-line and the male half of the fitting, which is the part that is hard to find.
What you want to do is grind a slot most of the way through, but not deep enough to get into the threads. Grind another slot on the backside if you can get there, or just grind a flat to weaken the fitting. Make that first slot wide enough to get the tip of a sturdy screwdriver in there and twist. That will either split the fitting or loosen it enough to spin off with fingers.
Clean up the male threads, attach a new hose and viola!
What am I missing here?
I don't think you are missing anything here....I doubt I can get to the back, but I can definitely get to the sides and the outer side. I already have the part waiting for install, so good there.
Looks like I shall be having some quality time with my Dremel later today. Will provide a (hopefully successful) update later.
05-21-2017, 01:21 PM
#18
Track Day
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That Dremel plan should work if done carefully.
Another thing you could try is to cut the fuel line that you want to replace - cut it next to the fitting. You then can put a six point socket on that fitting, which gives much better grip and leverage than an open end wrench. You also then can shoot a little penetrating fluid at the fitting, from the inside end. Obviously, the smaller fitting is the bigger problem, since it is already rounded off. Not all vise grips are created equal - a name brand vise grip in new condition, a 10" or so, will have a much better grip than a worn tool or a no-name tool. That said, a vise grip also can chew up the fitting, and you really don't want to lose much more metal off that fitting.
Good luck with the Dremel.
Another thing you could try is to cut the fuel line that you want to replace - cut it next to the fitting. You then can put a six point socket on that fitting, which gives much better grip and leverage than an open end wrench. You also then can shoot a little penetrating fluid at the fitting, from the inside end. Obviously, the smaller fitting is the bigger problem, since it is already rounded off. Not all vise grips are created equal - a name brand vise grip in new condition, a 10" or so, will have a much better grip than a worn tool or a no-name tool. That said, a vise grip also can chew up the fitting, and you really don't want to lose much more metal off that fitting.
Good luck with the Dremel.
05-21-2017, 01:42 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That Dremel plan should work if done carefully.
Another thing you could try is to cut the fuel line that you want to replace - cut it next to the fitting. You then can put a six point socket on that fitting, which gives much better grip and leverage than an open end wrench. You also then can shoot a little penetrating fluid at the fitting, from the inside end. Obviously, the smaller fitting is the bigger problem, since it is already rounded off. Not all vise grips are created equal - a name brand vise grip in new condition, a 10" or so, will have a much better grip than a worn tool or a no-name tool. That said, a vise grip also can chew up the fitting, and you really don't want to lose much more metal off that fitting.
Good luck with the Dremel.
Another thing you could try is to cut the fuel line that you want to replace - cut it next to the fitting. You then can put a six point socket on that fitting, which gives much better grip and leverage than an open end wrench. You also then can shoot a little penetrating fluid at the fitting, from the inside end. Obviously, the smaller fitting is the bigger problem, since it is already rounded off. Not all vise grips are created equal - a name brand vise grip in new condition, a 10" or so, will have a much better grip than a worn tool or a no-name tool. That said, a vise grip also can chew up the fitting, and you really don't want to lose much more metal off that fitting.
Good luck with the Dremel.
I did try your deep 19mm socket on it, and have been using that almost exclusively up to this point. But...interesting point of shooting the penetrate inside versus out.
05-21-2017, 03:00 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Success!!@!#@#!@!@!@
20 minutes with a Dremel > 3ish weeks of heat & penetrating fluid.
Made a couple of vertical cuts on one of the sides of the 19mm piece. Cut down to just the point where I could just see the depression for the threads.
Insert flathead screwdriver, twist. Thing spits.
Move two faces over. Repeat. 1/3rd of the piece breaks off.
Move two faces over. Repeat, remaining 2/3rds of the pieces break off and fall to the floor.
Threads are unaffected, flange and end is all good.
Onto my next project that'll take me 3 weeks longer than it should.
Thanks to everyone for the pointers!
Made a couple of vertical cuts on one of the sides of the 19mm piece. Cut down to just the point where I could just see the depression for the threads.
Insert flathead screwdriver, twist. Thing spits.
Move two faces over. Repeat. 1/3rd of the piece breaks off.
Move two faces over. Repeat, remaining 2/3rds of the pieces break off and fall to the floor.
Threads are unaffected, flange and end is all good.
Onto my next project that'll take me 3 weeks longer than it should.
Thanks to everyone for the pointers!
05-21-2017, 08:25 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Gracias!
Honestly, it didn't look like it got in at all.
There was so much rust / gunk / dirt / grime at the top of the 19mm coupling, I don't think it even broke through that.
There was so much rust / gunk / dirt / grime at the top of the 19mm coupling, I don't think it even broke through that.
05-21-2017, 09:11 PM
#24
There was so much rust / gunk / dirt / grime at the top of the 19mm coupling, I don't think it even broke through that.
Well done!
05-22-2017, 12:40 PM
#26
Drifting
Nice job OP, very interesting thread.
