Base Coat/Clear vs Single Stage-touch up
#1
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Base Coat/Clear vs Single Stage-touch up
Good Morning all,
I'm having a fender replaced and painted and 1 other area touched up on what is an excellent condition repaint in single stage on my 1982. I would normally just have the entire car repainted but it is a driver and the rest of the paint and body are in great shape. My question is what would people recommend in terms of repainting that one fender. Single Stage as the rest of the car is or Base/Clear? My painter says he can blend in either and will do whatever I want.
Thoughts?
Pic of busted fender when I acquired the car.
Thanks
Sonny
I'm having a fender replaced and painted and 1 other area touched up on what is an excellent condition repaint in single stage on my 1982. I would normally just have the entire car repainted but it is a driver and the rest of the paint and body are in great shape. My question is what would people recommend in terms of repainting that one fender. Single Stage as the rest of the car is or Base/Clear? My painter says he can blend in either and will do whatever I want.
Thoughts?
Pic of busted fender when I acquired the car.
Thanks
Sonny
#2
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It isn t metallic paint so I would trust the painter! Looks like old damage or is the original paint so thick?
Here in Germany i would think between 500 and 1.000 € for the job professional done.
Here in Germany i would think between 500 and 1.000 € for the job professional done.
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Painter recommends Base/Clear and he is a well established body guy I have used since he acquired the previous local Porsche(Pfaff-Toronto) building and all equipment as they built a brand new bodyshop.
#5
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I would definitely do singe-stage paint, since that's what the rest of the car is painted with. That's assuming the shop is comfortable with that-- and it sounds like they will do either.
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
Cheers,
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
Cheers,
#6
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I would definitely do singe-stage paint, since that's what the rest of the car is painted with. That's assuming the shop is comfortable with that-- and it sounds like they will do either.
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
Cheers,
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
Cheers,
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#10
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Hey Fred I have no idea. I'm in Sunderland, Ontario, Canada. 1 hr north east of Toronto. I was born in the UK if that helps at all.
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I hope so but I think with a 928 your better off to be prepared for anything that might come your way. Not sure you're ever " all set" with an older Porsche.
#13
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Single stage, and use the best quality paint the painter can buy. Red will oxidize horribly if the paint isn't good quality. If you did the clay-bar already, remove the gas cap door, and have him use the computer(if he's got one) to match. If not, it'll all be done by hand when he takes the gas door to his paint supplier. Don't settle for 'close enough'. If it's not perfect on the gas door, it won't be right on the fender. I've had to go back 4 times to get the right shade on faded cars, and red are very touchy.
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
#14
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Single stage, and use the best quality paint the painter can buy. Red will oxidize horribly if the paint isn't good quality. If you did the clay-bar already, remove the gas cap door, and have him use the computer(if he's got one) to match. If not, it'll all be done by hand when he takes the gas door to his paint supplier. Don't settle for 'close enough'. If it's not perfect on the gas door, it won't be right on the fender. I've had to go back 4 times to get the right shade on faded cars, and red are very touchy.
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
#15
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I believe those red colours are quite difficult to colour match due to the way they sun fade. For sure you should discuss this withwhoever is goin to do the job to see what if anything they are prepared to do to mitigate the problem. If they tell you it is not a problem take a second opinion.
Do let us know how you get on.