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I'm having a fender replaced and painted and 1 other area touched up on what is an excellent condition repaint in single stage on my 1982. I would normally just have the entire car repainted but it is a driver and the rest of the paint and body are in great shape. My question is what would people recommend in terms of repainting that one fender. Single Stage as the rest of the car is or Base/Clear? My painter says he can blend in either and will do whatever I want.
It isn t metallic paint so I would trust the painter! Looks like old damage or is the original paint so thick?
Here in Germany i would think between 500 and 1.000 € for the job professional done.
I wonder about the same thing- that sure looks like filler under that very thick paint. What does your painter think?
Yes it is definitely filler. I did finally manage to track down and speak with the previous owner of 7 years for this particular car and there was no body damage to it when he left it at a repair shop as the costs to repair transmission where beyond his current means. I bought the car with a parts car missing a tranny so 1 + 1 =7. The car was off the road for almost 6 years so what happened to it over that time is a mystery but the mileage seems to all balance with the Carproof.
Painter recommends Base/Clear and he is a well established body guy I have used since he acquired the previous local Porsche(Pfaff-Toronto) building and all equipment as they built a brand new bodyshop.
I would definitely do singe-stage paint, since that's what the rest of the car is painted with. That's assuming the shop is comfortable with that-- and it sounds like they will do either.
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
I would definitely do singe-stage paint, since that's what the rest of the car is painted with. That's assuming the shop is comfortable with that-- and it sounds like they will do either.
One thing I would do first is a nice polish job on the existing paint, or find a good detailer. That will give them a better target for matching.
Cheers,
Great minds think alike. You and my Painter! I did claybar and 3m finesse It the car then wax it the best I could as Painter actually recommended that so glad to hear that is the right way to go. I was thinking that single stage would be the proper way but not sure that people these days would have the right equipment and skills to do the old school way properly. Red Kiln has the skills though.
The original paint was cellulose- do they still allow this technique in the UK or are they obliged to use more modern water based system with heat curing?
The original paint was cellulose- do they still allow this technique in the UK or are they obliged to use more modern water based system with heat curing?
Hey Fred I have no idea. I'm in Sunderland, Ontario, Canada. 1 hr north east of Toronto. I was born in the UK if that helps at all.
Ok. I ask because I know I have seen a couple, even a new one on craigslist but i think it was the drivers side. Glad you're all set.
I hope so but I think with a 928 your better off to be prepared for anything that might come your way. Not sure you're ever " all set" with an older Porsche.
Single stage, and use the best quality paint the painter can buy. Red will oxidize horribly if the paint isn't good quality. If you did the clay-bar already, remove the gas cap door, and have him use the computer(if he's got one) to match. If not, it'll all be done by hand when he takes the gas door to his paint supplier. Don't settle for 'close enough'. If it's not perfect on the gas door, it won't be right on the fender. I've had to go back 4 times to get the right shade on faded cars, and red are very touchy.
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
Single stage, and use the best quality paint the painter can buy. Red will oxidize horribly if the paint isn't good quality. If you did the clay-bar already, remove the gas cap door, and have him use the computer(if he's got one) to match. If not, it'll all be done by hand when he takes the gas door to his paint supplier. Don't settle for 'close enough'. If it's not perfect on the gas door, it won't be right on the fender. I've had to go back 4 times to get the right shade on faded cars, and red are very touchy.
It's also sensitive to curing and if he has a booth with some heat, it should be on medium for several hours. (mention because you're in the great white north)
Thanks doc. I'll send him a note along with the color chart you just posted in another thread. Why the medium heat for several hours? Just curious. Car is stored in heated garage for winter so not sure if the cold weather will be a factor. Thanks for the great information.
Hey Fred I have no idea. I'm in Sunderland, Ontario, Canada. 1 hr north east of Toronto. I was born in the UK if that helps at all.
Ha ha- anywhere is better than Sunderland in the UK- the smart ones escape! [only kidding!]
I believe those red colours are quite difficult to colour match due to the way they sun fade. For sure you should discuss this withwhoever is goin to do the job to see what if anything they are prepared to do to mitigate the problem. If they tell you it is not a problem take a second opinion.
04-17-2017, 09:05 AM
Base Coat/Clear vs Single Stage-touch up
