Adk46

Amazing effort. I wish the results were not going to be so temporary. I just found myself wondering about a sort of Credit Union we could all join, aimed at making loans for repaint jobs.

Koenig-Specials 928

Everyone is concerned about prep/cost etc of using a wrap.
I have one more for you, labor after the wrap is removed down the road.

I just removed a 3 year wrap from a car and spent the entire weekend (Friday afternoon after work until Sunday at 6 pm) removing the glue that remained. I used up 2 bottles of Goop and a plastic scraper. The glue was hard and dried and first I had to soak it with the goop and then rub it off. Today every muscle in my body aches (ok, I'm kinda out of shape)

Shop wanted $600 to remove the old wrap. My body is telling me I should have paid to have it done.

My $0.02

jwillman

has anyone tried the Dip Your Car spray on wrap. Many videos available on YouTube. Seems more forgiving and considerably less costly.

KenRudd

In limited way:

On my rims, to protect what was a very good finish and try a new look with low commitment. Black + Glossifier over factory silver. Looks okay, and hides brake dust well, BUT I take my tires off a lot, and it is getting chewed up around the lug nuts. So good marks for cost, ease of applciationand looks in this usage, low marks for durability.

On the abbreviated S3 belly tray. Just to keep it a little respectable. It gets scratched up, I spray a little more on there. May go to a tough bed liner in that area eventually. Easy to put on, and don't care as much about appearance.

On the S3 chin spoiler: Fail. Looked great for a few days, but did not stick well enough and when it peels it looks like crap, and everybody can see it.

I would not used it on a whole car except maybe to test a new look or with the knowledge that it is likely a short term solution. It just does not seem rugged enough to withstand everyday driving washing, etc. for very long, and once it peels, you need to re-shoot that section.

YMMV

M. Requin

Yep: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...iler-idea.html

RennPartsDirect

The next time you need to remove leftover adhesive buy yourself a bottle of 3M 08984. It dissolves the adhesive effortlessly... and I mean effortlessly.

Koenig-Specials 928

Good to know.
There may be some little gems remaining that I didn't see because my eyes were also hurting.
Thanks dude.

bureau13

How long did that "dip" last? Have you had issues washing it? My wheels are dipped, but I haven't had much success getting brake dust to wash off. It's not terrible, but the stuff isn't a completely smooth finish, it just seems harder to clean.

Imo000

The new owner of my '83 928 decided to plasti dip the entire car flat black. Ended up looking like $hit even in pictures so I can't even imagine what it looked like in person.

bureau13

This is why I'd rather have someone else do it. I don't trust myself with that kind of work. I don't think I'd do the flat look though. Maybe a satin silver finish...

BigAl1

After a crazy amount of sanding and surface prep, finally getting some blue wrap onto the car! But, not without some pain and failure thrown in to test me. The pain was trying to wrap a fender and failing because of gathering wrinkles, and on top of that, having the paint peel off when I removed the bad wrap job - GRRR! So, more filling and sanding to repair the paint problems. After the surface was 400 grit smooth again, tried wrapping with a different starting point. I tried tacking it down in the middle first and working toward the front, but again had major gathering wrinkles just ahead of the wheel arch where the compound curves are the deepest. Carolyn avoided me due to the foul language from the basement!!! At his point I had wasted 2 pieces 76" lg, and run out of my 30ft roll to boot! Not a good feeling about this project..... So, tried a different approach. I called some local pros and with their tips and hints, plus some careful reviewing of CKWRAPS youtube videos, I decided to try again. I used a scrap piece to practice on the heaviest compound curve area, and tried pulling and stretching the film to work out the wrinkles before using the squeegee - worked so much better! I think the main error before was trying to lay the film on in rough location, then start sticking it down. I should be tacking it down at one spot, then stretching it tight over the curves. With that good practice and some more in person hints from a local wrap guy, decided to carry on. 50ft of material arrived next day, so back on track. The other part of this different approach is I'll temporarily mount the fender back on the car to hold it solid before trying to wrap it again, getting most of the shape done, then take it off to finish the edges.
This idea required me to get all the car sanding and prep done, clean the car of all dust, clean the shop as much as possible, and remove all the dust masking I had on the car. This took a couple evenings. So far it seems like 3-4 hours of prep for each 1 hour of wrapping. But, my prep is so much sanding and surface repair of the bad paint - a regular car with a good paint surface would need far less prep.
So, today was go time. I started with the rocker panels - simple straight curve, easy. I had already applied new stone guard texture and top layer of paint to seal it. So a final clean with alcohol, apply Primer 94 all around the edges, especially along the bottom pinch seam and wheel arch edges, then peel the film and apply. Yeah - came out nice! Did the same for the top, front edge of the door opening, and down the back of the door sill - really works nice when stretching the film to work out the wrinkles instead of just trying to work them out with the squeegee only. With that WIN, did the passenger side also, following the same order - even better than the first. The more practice with the right technique, the better I get - I can be learned!
Also started filling in the rear hatch channels surrounding the opening, using offcuts from the large pieces already done. I'm doing these as separate as will be much easier to handle than a single large piece of film, and so the seam will be pointing down in these channels, not visible.
Still need to final prep the front and rear bumper covers - those will be tough to wrap (I think). I've used 30ft (wasted 13ft with the 2 fender fails), and now have another 50ft. There is enough for another large piece screwup - hopefully won't happen again! Will give a total usage when this is all done.

M. Requin

Impressive - especially the door jambs! Another great project to follow.

BigAl1

Lots of progress over the last weeks - slower than snails if you look at how long it has been! The roof is a fairly flat shape, and after 2 fails due to tears in the film, got it on the 3rd try. I think the problem was I put Primer 94 along the edge where the drip rail goes, and the film caught that, so when I tried to lift to reposition, it wrecked the part because it grabbed so well. Lesson learned - only use Primer 94 where necessary! Of course, when removing the 2 fails I peeled some of the bad clearcoat, so that required remasking everything and sanding those smooth. Eventually got it - very nice too, but it was a long stressful night!
I filled in the rear hatch jambs on the car, and then tried the driver's rear quarter. This is where I had more problems with gathering wrinkles - near the back where the compound curve gets deepest. Eventually got frustrated with the first attempt, removed it (causing more clearcoat failures, and needing more sanding!!!), then did it again. Not perfect, but doable for now.
Other side went on in 1 try, but also fighting wrinkles in the rear. I am NOT practiced enough for these complex shapes! Moved on to the front fenders (again). This time I mounted the fenders on the car to hold them steady, and allow me to stretch the film over the curves - much better than just laying it on and working it with the squeegee. I did the fender inner jambs first since the depth of these returns looked like it would be trouble for wrinkles. This allows the main film piece to wrap on top of the jamb piece, making the edge pointing down so less visible.
With the good weather last weekend I got the car out into the sun for the first time with blue on it - really an amazing color!! I needed the extra space to get the doors on, so it all worked out pretty well. The RH door did need a shim as it was dragging some, but looks great now. The new rear hatch seal is installed, but still need to drill the air release holes in the bulb (this is not a Porsche stock seal). Once the hatch is on, I'll know if it seals like it should - the profile looked really good side-by-side. Also got the door seals cleaned and installed so the doors are cushioned when closed - things fitted nice, and the door clearances are great all around! Now I can get to assembling the doors.

BC

That is awesome.

polecat702

Looks fantastic! You must have the patience of Job.