Installing a door stop
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 99
From: Gainesville, FL
I can't speak for everyone. So far it seems to be purely anecdotal based on two cases. But for me it was the best option. I was not comfortable pushing the door with as much force as was required with the new bar. With the old bar in the new receiver it basically had a "new car" feel. With that said, obviously many people have used the new bar/receiver combo for years without issue.
If you go this route, make sure you thoroughly clean the old bar with warm water and degreaser. There was 35 years worth of hardened grease that filled the valleys between the stop ridges, which made the old bar feel like one smooth piece with no divets. Undoubtedly this is part of what contributes to the lack of function as these wear out.
If you go this route, make sure you thoroughly clean the old bar with warm water and degreaser. There was 35 years worth of hardened grease that filled the valleys between the stop ridges, which made the old bar feel like one smooth piece with no divets. Undoubtedly this is part of what contributes to the lack of function as these wear out.
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Hey Tony, yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about....installing the old bar in the new mechanism. Here is the reason why:
When I installed the new stop and literally could not close the door afterward, I removed it and found the problem which was the new bar is much thicker at the raised portions than the old bar. I decided to use the new bar and just file it down to the dimensions of the old bar. Unfortunately in doing so, although I was able to get the door to close easily, it had a slight stutter in doing so. The reason for that was although I filed down the 'height' of the bumps on the bar, I could not adequately file the ramps up to, and from the bumps which affected the smoothness of the operation of the door stop.
I could have disassembled it a third time and worked with my die grinder to smooth these areas but when I examined the old bar, it was perfect and would not need filing and or grinding. I installed the old bar in the new mechanism for the passenger door and it operated like new. Of course, make sure to clean up the 30 to 40 years of hardened grease on it before you install it!
When I installed the new stop and literally could not close the door afterward, I removed it and found the problem which was the new bar is much thicker at the raised portions than the old bar. I decided to use the new bar and just file it down to the dimensions of the old bar. Unfortunately in doing so, although I was able to get the door to close easily, it had a slight stutter in doing so. The reason for that was although I filed down the 'height' of the bumps on the bar, I could not adequately file the ramps up to, and from the bumps which affected the smoothness of the operation of the door stop.
I could have disassembled it a third time and worked with my die grinder to smooth these areas but when I examined the old bar, it was perfect and would not need filing and or grinding. I installed the old bar in the new mechanism for the passenger door and it operated like new. Of course, make sure to clean up the 30 to 40 years of hardened grease on it before you install it!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 143
Likes: 65
From: St. Louis, MO
Reading this thread with interest about the mixed bag people are experiencing with the new door stop part. Has anyone tried the "URO" knockoff brand as compared to the factory replacement part? Just curious if there would be any difference in the design to avoid the stiff door closing a lot of people are experiencing after replacement.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 27
From: Salt Lake City
URO Replacement Door Stop
Reading this thread with interest about the mixed bag people are experiencing with the new door stop part. Has anyone tried the "URO" knockoff brand as compared to the factory replacement part? Just curious if there would be any difference in the design to avoid the stiff door closing a lot of people are experiencing after replacement.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 143
Likes: 65
From: St. Louis, MO
Installed the URO door arrest mechanism yesterday. Works perfect. As said above, I need to add a little grease to smooth the operation, but the stiffness is ok. I compared the "thickness" of the nubs between old and new - about 0.8mm difference with the old clearly worn down.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 143
Likes: 65
From: St. Louis, MO
Installed the URO door arrestor today and while a little stiff I'm happy with the operation and the three door detents now work very well. Seems to be a well made part and maybe not AS stiff as the factory Porsche replacement.
