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Thanks all, I think I'm going to take the one from the passenger's side and install it on the driver's side.
Since very few passengers ever get in the car the door stop on that side works perfectly well. Thanks for all of the comments.
Thanks all, I think I'm going to take the one from the passenger's side and install it on the driver's side.
Since very few passengers ever get in the car the door stop on that side works perfectly well.
Sorry, but that doesn't make a lot of sense.
A new door stop should work properly. I have not seen one that was installed correctly, but didn't let you close the door. It may be a bit strong at the beginning, but these doors are long and - despite being aluminum - not super light.
Why don't you post some pictures of your installation and let us take a look. perhaps you have installed it incorrectly. Perhaps you have overtightened something that doesn't allow it to move as designed. There could be multiple reasons.
We are here to help resolve issues, not avoid them.
In the last week I installed a new door stay. As per Nicole: Yes, it's surprisingly stiff. But, not so stiff as to damage anything. This latest iteration of the replacement part is definitely stiffer than the last.
You will want to make sure that the anchor plate on the body is properly fastened. They will get loose over the years; blue Loctite doesn't work forever.
And, do post a picture.
While it shouldn't be possible to install it incorrectly, I've seen enough 928 pieces installed backwards, upside down, inside out, left or right, or top on bottom, that I've decided that nothing's impossible.
yes please post a picture,
the part you installed could have the arm pointing the opposite way,
better yet check to see if the curve of the arm matches your passenger side.
FWIW I have repaired and replaced a few of these and the new parts are pretty stiff,
I find that spraying some lubricant onto the rod makes things operate much easier.
NOTE closing the door with more force will give the door momentum this makes operation easier.
NOTE What I have found is that the rollers in the Nylon holders rust and then they stick in the Nylon,
then the arm will abrade the rollers and wear a flat spot in them then they cant roll anymore.
Taking them apart and replacing the rollers usually works,
I have been using drill bit shanks that are close to the pin diameter
Same experience on my car ... put a new one on the driver's side and it was super-tight and has only loosened a little over several years of use. Next time I have the door panels off plan to switch them so the tight one is on the pass side. Strange that the replacement part is so tight and, in my case, apparently never will relax to what I'd consider a normal feeling ...
He may not be pulling hard enough. On my 87, I installed the titanium over lays, and it was stiff when I attempted to close it. With a lil more force, it moved. And it would hold the door open as it should, at different intervals. I thought there was a left and a right piece and it could only go one way. Don't remember for sure though.
After reviewing all of the new messages that indicate the replacement parts are just very stiff I decided to apply extra force and the door closed just fine. I'm hoping the door stop loosens up some in the very near future though. As well-built as the car happens to be there's just no reason the hinge should apply that much pressure to the car door.
Thanks for all of your help.
I did not replace the part that attaches to the car frame.
I have reviewed this entire thread and wish to make a couple comments.
Neither of my doors stopped at all and always swung closed. I purchased two original parts from Gaudin Porsche and just got around to installing the driver's side this weekend. I promptly found the door would not close after installing the new part. I pulled on the door until I thought I might do damage to the door frame and it would not move. I removed the new part, put it in a vise and had to hammer the bar out of the door arresting mechanism. This part was new and had fresh grease. A micrometer revealed the problem that a lot of us in this stream has discovered. The 'bar' on my original part measured .192 inches at the high point of each bump. My 'new' bar measured .214 inches! I them then filed down the bumps to match the original part and installed it in the car. The door now worked beautifully at all three stop positions.
Here's my suggestion to you and what I will do on the passenger side. Examine the bar on your old part. If the bar does not show signs of galling, push it out of the old arresting mechanism, clean it and install it in the new mechanism. Unless the roller has been grinding on this bar, it will not be worn out. You will not need to file the new bar down to match the old one.
After years of the door banging into my leg, it's very nice to have it stay open not now!
Great resurrection to this thread. I was wondering if there might have been some change in the part over the years after reading so many threads with the same comment about how hard they are to close when new. This is on my project list for this weekend. I will check my new and original bar for thickness and report back.
I have reviewed this entire thread and wish to make a couple comments.
Neither of my doors stopped at all and always swung closed. I purchased two original parts from Gaudin Porsche and just got around to installing the driver's side this weekend. I promptly found the door would not close after installing the new part. I pulled on the door until I thought I might do damage to the door frame and it would not move. I removed the new part, put it in a vise and had to hammer the bar out of the door arresting mechanism. This part was new and had fresh grease. A micrometer revealed the problem that a lot of us in this stream has discovered. The 'bar' on my original part measured .192 inches at the high point of each bump. My 'new' bar measured .214 inches! I them then filed down the bumps to match the original part and installed it in the car. The door now worked beautifully at all three stop positions.
Here's my suggestion to you and what I will do on the passenger side. Examine the bar on your old part. If the bar does not show signs of galling, push it out of the old arresting mechanism, clean it and install it in the new mechanism. Unless the roller has been grinding on this bar, it will not be worn out. You will not need to file the new bar down to match the old one.
After years of the door banging into my leg, it's very nice to have it stay open not now!
Cheers to my 928 brethren!
I did this repair on Sunday. Similar to yours my new bar was 0.215 inches thick at the peaks. The old bar was 0.195. I did not think that 0.02 inches would make such a difference so I first installed the new piece with the new bar. When I attempted to close the door I was not comfortable with how much the door frame was flexing. I removed the door stop, popped out the new arm and inserted the old arm and it works great. The stop has a good firm engagement but not overly tight.
02-07-2017, 09:40 AM
