Tachometer for tuning 32V S-3
#1
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Tachometer for tuning 32V S-3
Hello Gentlemen,
I am slightly embarrassed to ask this stupid question, but what kind of external tachometer are you using for tuning your 32V engines? Meaning because it has dual ignition systems.
I have an excellent dial back timing light, but it does not have a tachometer in it. For that, I have always used my archaic though trusty Suntune diagnostic meter. The meter clips onto the (-) side of the ignition coil. It has worked just fine for reading RPM on the SBC in my '66 C-10, and the small crate engine in my '84 S-10.
However, I am not sure it will be appropriate for my 928.
So...what are you using and/or what do you recommend?
Thanks for your time and advice,
Seth K. Pyle
I am slightly embarrassed to ask this stupid question, but what kind of external tachometer are you using for tuning your 32V engines? Meaning because it has dual ignition systems.
I have an excellent dial back timing light, but it does not have a tachometer in it. For that, I have always used my archaic though trusty Suntune diagnostic meter. The meter clips onto the (-) side of the ignition coil. It has worked just fine for reading RPM on the SBC in my '66 C-10, and the small crate engine in my '84 S-10.
However, I am not sure it will be appropriate for my 928.
So...what are you using and/or what do you recommend?
Thanks for your time and advice,
Seth K. Pyle
#2
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Hi Skpyle, I like my old Sears auto analyser with optional timing light because it does all the basic tests (volts,amps, ohms, dwell) and for a tach it just hooks to #1 plug wire and a 12 volt source. It's 20 years old but there must be an equivalent available today. It covers electronic ignition cars and the really old stuff which is handy if you have an antique car as well. Something to think about when shopping.
The second photo is my 1st blinker CO tuning light. I did not have a 12 volt LED or the correct resister that I could find but found a few 3 volt LEDs. Just run 4 of them in series and they work fine for the 12 volt CO test without a resister. You then use a separate jumper between B and C for that part of the tuning. If your making one the longest wire on the LED is the positive side. If you are cutting them from old stuff like me the positive side is the side in the bulb that has the smallest bit of hardware at the end of that wire.
The last pic is my 2nd blinker tester build once I got my order of the correct gear. Does both the CO tuning of terminal A and the WOT test from terminal B. Switch to change modes. Just used an old medicine bottle to hold them. With these and a decent multi-meter electrical testing and tuning is feasible for an untrained 86.5 owner like me. That is so long as I can access the remarkable knowledge of this very generous group. Might buy a inexpensive O'scope but it is not used that often for cars.
Happy New Year, Steve in Carlsbad
The second photo is my 1st blinker CO tuning light. I did not have a 12 volt LED or the correct resister that I could find but found a few 3 volt LEDs. Just run 4 of them in series and they work fine for the 12 volt CO test without a resister. You then use a separate jumper between B and C for that part of the tuning. If your making one the longest wire on the LED is the positive side. If you are cutting them from old stuff like me the positive side is the side in the bulb that has the smallest bit of hardware at the end of that wire.
The last pic is my 2nd blinker tester build once I got my order of the correct gear. Does both the CO tuning of terminal A and the WOT test from terminal B. Switch to change modes. Just used an old medicine bottle to hold them. With these and a decent multi-meter electrical testing and tuning is feasible for an untrained 86.5 owner like me. That is so long as I can access the remarkable knowledge of this very generous group. Might buy a inexpensive O'scope but it is not used that often for cars.
Happy New Year, Steve in Carlsbad
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hello Steve!
Thanks for the input! Funny you mention your Craftsman analyzer...
I still use mine for tuning the HT3.4L crate engine in my little S-10.
It never occurred to me to use it on my Porsche.
I will definitely give it a try!
Thanks for the suggestions on the Blink'r. If(and when) I ruin and old 911 round relay trying to build my own Blink'r, I will use your suggestion for a medicine bottle.
Thanks!
Seth K. Pyle
Thanks for the input! Funny you mention your Craftsman analyzer...
I still use mine for tuning the HT3.4L crate engine in my little S-10.
It never occurred to me to use it on my Porsche.
I will definitely give it a try!
Thanks for the suggestions on the Blink'r. If(and when) I ruin and old 911 round relay trying to build my own Blink'r, I will use your suggestion for a medicine bottle.
Thanks!
Seth K. Pyle
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#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It entails knowing what the engine RPM is while making adjustments to the running condition of the engine.
In dash instruments are not necessarily to be trusted for this purpose.
Diagnostic tools are.
Seth K. Pyle
In dash instruments are not necessarily to be trusted for this purpose.
Diagnostic tools are.
Seth K. Pyle
#12
Captain Obvious
Super User
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Any old strobe light with an RPM display will do that thst's why I wasn't sure why you picked this exact model. I used one I got from a garage sale but the following time I did what most here do and set the idle using the RPM gauge in the car. In a manual car setting thd idle is easy, just use your ears.
#13
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Thread Starter
I understand. However, I have never owned a timing light with an RPM display. That's why I bought this one.
Decades ago, as an apprentice, I learned not to trust OEM in dash tachometers and such. They had varying degrees of inacuraccy.
Granted, I have never worked on a Porsche before. As for setting idle by ear, I don't trust my ear.
Seth K. Pyle
Decades ago, as an apprentice, I learned not to trust OEM in dash tachometers and such. They had varying degrees of inacuraccy.
Granted, I have never worked on a Porsche before. As for setting idle by ear, I don't trust my ear.
Seth K. Pyle
#14
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