twinreds

Good morning folks!
Does anyone have any experience with solid motor mounts? I had some placed on my old 930 and they did make the car shift beautifully. I also found out that the motor tray needed to be reinforced....
Is this the same story for 928's? If not, how has your experience been with solid mounts, good or bad? Finally, which ones are the most recommended?
Thank you
Miguel

SeanR

By solid, do you mean solid metal, solid rubber, what are you looking for?

twinreds

Solid metal, (928 Motorsports type)

Wisconsin Joe

Well, no personal experience with the solid metal ones, but when I put new Volvo (solid rubber) mounts on my 928, the difference between the new and old, collapsed ones was remarkable. Roger has the Volvo mounts for a decent price, and when you get them, you will find that the locating pin that needs to be ground off is already gone (that 'extra touch' that makes dealing with Roger sooooo nice )

The Volvo MMs are 'squishy' enough to allow the motor to rock back and forth a couple inches. That damping reduces felt vibration by a huge amount. Unless you are racing, I'd go with "normal" ones, not solid metal ones.

My old ones looked very similar to the ones in MrMerlin's thread about the new design "lifetime" MMs. Flat and rock hard. I would have gone with the new design by Hans if they had been available (they were still in prototype form at the time).

SeanR

Are you building a racecar? Why would you want to do this?

twinreds

Not building a race car. I just liked the feel when I installed them on my 930. I cannot possibly imagine that would make the car disgustingly uncomfortable and I think it would be a good trade off for the feeling of connectedness that it provides.

Wisconsin Joe

Well, keep in mind that a 930 and a 928 are two very different cars.

Also, despite a solid connection through the Torque Tube, the motor and trans are at opposite ends of the car. So "locking down" the motor won't have the same effect on shifting that it would in a 930, where the motor & trans are connected to each other.

If you want to 'tighten up' the shifting, put in a new coupler at the back and a new cup at the front. Although you can only get the shift feel improved to a certain point.

Carl Fausett

Some worry about engine vibrations being transmitted through the car to the driver with solid motor mounts. That is not been shown to be the case.

The 928 engine is so smooth, and there are so many other vibration isolators between the driver and the car that we have never noticed any vibration come through at all. Remember there is a large vibration isolator in the steering wheel column...

We do NOT recommend you install BOTH the solid trans mounts and the solid motor mounts unless the car is roll-caged. The 928 body twists too much, and there needs to be some compliance between the engine-torque tube-trans and the body because of this. Remember, the suspension is mounted to the body, and it is the body that twists as a result of this. So go ahead with your solid motor mounts, but keep your rubber transaxle mounts so their is some compliance in the system. Then you will have no troubles at all.

I do like the immediate throttle response that the solid aluminum mounts provide - especially on a manual trans car. With rubber mounts, the engine torques on its mounts before your tires start to turn...

Solid aluminum mounts are also a great thing if you are installing headers... not affected by heat, and they are a lot smaller than the rubber mounts and heat shields - making working on your car a lot easier. :-)

85euro928

I ran Carl's solid motor mounts for a few years but changed them out just because when I pulled the engine last time. They were easy to fit with the engine in the car and gave a lot of room to work if you needed it. Also no noticable vibrations.

Carl Fausett

Here is the steering column isolator I was talking about in my post above.

I have a picture of it around here somewhere but cant find it readily.

I have no doubt it has two purposes: 1) to take up small angularity issues between the bottom of the steering column and the top, and 2) vibration isolation.

SeanR

I can't think of a single reason one would want these on a street car. I get people complaining all the time about the vibrations from collapsed engine mounts and a solid metal mount would be much worse. Putting stresses on the engine mounting points that is just not needed.

But if ya believe what you just read above, feel free to do it.

GregBBRD

Got to love marketing people.....

With collapsed stock mounts, the vibrations transfered to the chassis and inside the car are terrible....absolutely ruins the car.

Solid mounts are going to be way worse.....how could they not be?

Hanns has a new mount, which appears to have great potential.

PorKen

But...polluting threads with your self-styled 'public service' marketing, is A-OK.

Carl Fausett

The locating pin is an asset, it keeps the motor mount from turning while you tighten the mounting nuts. This is what the pin is for, and why there is a pin on the OEM Porsche mount. You will find there is a locating hole in your mounting step just for this locating pin.

If you look in the Porsche PET, all models from 1983-1995 NA and ROW show the hole for the locating pin in the "step" that the mount is attached to.

For those not familiar, here are some pictures. A pic of the OEM motor mount with locating pin, and our replacement mount with the specified locating pin. I have included a pic also of a 1983-95 cross-member showing the bolting hole and the hole for the pin provided.

On the rubber mounts we provide the locating pin is in the right location and fits right into the hole provided. So we don't have to grind them off.

SeanR

You know how I know you don't know what you are talking about? There are two pins on the aftermarket mounts and Roger gets rid of the one that is not needed.