drscottsmith

Thanks Doc!

Just some updates I didn't include in the first go-round.

1) I replaced the heater valve when I did top end refresh - not to say it is potentially not defective. When I put the mityvac directly to the valve it does close and stay closed.

2) I have the relay in hand to do the upgrade. I did notice that when controller is plugged in, when I turn the lever to "Auto", the compressor comes on and the idle kicks up, but I still am going to go ahead with the upgrade.

3) 4-way connector and check valve in engine bay next to brake booster are new - but I know I am still sorting vacuum issues so there are other weak links in that system. Right now I suspect the main feed from that 4-way connector into the vac actuator bank may be leaking and I'll replace. Will no more when I pull the side panel off the console to start testing individual actuators.

Thanks Doc - please let me know if I am missing anything further based on these comments.

I'll continue to post updates as I work. Interested to use Sean's method for cleaning the evap coils - based on everything else I have found in the car and the fact that it apparently was stored outside for an extended period, there is no telling what's down there.

-scott

docmirror

If the compressor cycles in any method, that's really a good thing. Verifies the fluid in the system, lo and hi pressure switches(unless they are bypassed), clutch relay, pump and front fans are all working. Puts you well ahead of the game.

If the new metal heater valve is in, I would wire it shut until all your vac testing and repairs are done. Even if it is open a tiny bit, you'll get quite a bit of heat circ through the exchanger rad in the dash.

Sounds like you have it handled, and are on the right track. When you dig into that plenum, you will also see the resistor pack for the various fan settings. Now is also a good time to take that out, and clean all the connectors, and resolder the leads on the resistor wires. Many of those resistor packs are goofed up and lead to 'magic blower syndrome', where the blower will run only on high, or not at all, and will have a mind of its own for running sometimes.

drscottsmith

Thanks Doc - will report back with progress!

-scott

drscottsmith

Tore into the console over the weekend. Removed the radio wiring (aftermarket) but it was not too bad. Couple of minor other hacks removed for cleanup and rework.

Main issue was the incoming vac line from the engine bay was disconnected - but reconnecting that fixed nothing!

In testing the actuators - it looks like I have two with issues. Both front and center. The comb flap was completely broken loose at its "hinge point", and the attachment to the actuator bar was broken. Plan is to use a metal hinge riveted to the plastic hinge to replace. Drill a small hole through end of flap attachment and use a small bolt and nut tightened through the door hose access point to tighten.

The actuator for the comb flap's rubber appears to be fine, but the plastic "cap" has a small piece missing - I can't really tell if this is causing the leak but will assume so and replace the cap.

The floor vent actuator will not hold vacuum so it will get a new diaphragm as well. Cleaning everything good while in there and will tidy up factory wiring and stereo wiring as well.

All in all the HVAC system seems to make sense as to how it operates - pleased that it is not more complex as I feared.

More to report moving forward.

Majestic Moose

I have got serious deja-vu looking at this! See my thread on how I fixed that center flap. I will bet that most of these are broken but you would only know it by removing the center console. It requires that you remove the front half of the HVAC unit and to do that you have to remove the pod and dash. That is a good time to repair the cracks yourself or Fibrenew will do a pretty good job for $400. This is definitely a rabbits hole, depends how much money you have and whether you want to have to go back in the next couple years or 20-30 years.

Roger has new defrost vac pods (mounted to the left of the HVAC unit with a long arm and new recirc vac pods for the flap above the CE panel. Depending on your build date you may have an older style vac pod that is NLA which is what I am faced with. He has replacement rubber to rebuild the center and footwell vac pods. There is a dual diaphragm vac pod on the center console that is NLA. Mine held vacuum and looks pretty good, I juiced up the rubber with DC 111.

I think you will be OK with that chipped cap. Shout if you have any questions.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post14182788

docmirror

Those white vac lines are likely cracking somewhere and letting vac bleed off. They get brittle after 30 years. Roger sells a red vac line that can replace all the white aged stuff. Also, I think you have a vac reservoir in the right fender well. Might want to check that and the lines leading to and from it. Common failure point as the reservoir is also plastic.

drscottsmith

Good news to report on several fronts:

Roger has my replacement diaphragms out the door. Should take care of the two that are not holding vacuum.

Pulled the front wheel last night and checked everything there. I am getting resistance on the outside air temp sensor after blowing it clean. I do NOT however get a reading in the car from the harness. Have to figure out where the break is. Got some new hose to replace the ratty alt cooling hose WIAIT.

My vac reservoir and tempostat reservoir seem to be holding vac just fine. Will replace the Y-connector where they attach to the 4-way-T for posterity. Also need to replace some other connections and check vac of the plastic lines in the cabin.

Inside air sensor seems to be working fine as does control head.
Plugging away a bit at the time.

-scott

skpyle

Excellent! Keep up the good work!

drscottsmith

I love seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Made several strides last night to document:

1) Replaced the alt cooling hose setup using the RV sewer hose from WalMart. Seems to work fine. The new hose is more flexible than the factory version and it is slightly larger, but it clamped on the temp sensor and alt shroud just fine.

2) Got the new hinge riveted to the comb flap and mounted a screw that I think will work to attach to the actuator. See pics. May end up needing a slightly longer machine screw when it is all said and done.

The biggest news...I was concerned that when I connected the control unit, absolutely NOTHING happened. I would have expected that even with the vac leaks (the comb flap actuator is taken apart and its line hanging loose and the center flap was not connected), that I would still see the solenoids activate when I moved the levers on the control.

I was just about to pull the mixer unit when I noticed that the entire strip of vacuum control solenoids is commonly grounded by a tab at the end of the strip. The entire frame of the unit is each solenoid's ground. I checked continuity between the frame and the console support and nothing. Fashioned a quick new ground cable and attached from the frame to the console support and BOOM! Now I have solenoids working - and actuators started working...even the floor flap which I thought had a bad diaphragm.

So VERY excited now and my shipment of stuff from Roger should arrive today. Hope to get everything buttoned back up tomorrow as I am taking off work.

More to come...

Wisconsin Joe

Cool. Good to hear about progress.

And yeah, Christmas has nothing on watching the tracing info for a package from Roger.

drscottsmith

Well have made a good bit of progress.

For the HVAC, everything in the vacuum system now seems to be working - I get the transfer around based on where the control levers are put.

I still think I am in heat override mode when I move the temp slider off of the microswitch. So perhaps my outside temp sensor truly is not correctly working. I have verified the inside sensor. Will use the AC Service Manual to check those values. Then have to go back and make sure refrigerant circuit is working well - and clean the junk out of the evaporator below the windshield - I dread what I might find - Jimmy Hoffa might be in there.

Also pulled to pod to check intermittent gauges and replace light bulbs. Went LED in most indicators and went to red for the general pod illumination. Pleased with the result although my switches are VERY bright now. i need to add a resistor to the defrost, fog and hazard switches so they will dim when not in use.

Everything came out and went together fine. Cleaned all connections on the circuit foil and pod switches.

I will start a new thread about my interesting find related to the cluster as I am interested in comments.

-scott

skpyle

Very nice! Excellent photos!
How about some night time action shots...?

drscottsmith

Woohoo! I have AC! I have been trying to figure out what to do about an AC charge, just assuming the car was never converted to R-134. I looked yesterday and lo and behold, there are no conversion stickers anywhere, but the lo pressure connector was indeed an R-134 push on.

So I pulled out my filler hose and a can of 134, and I have AC! All of my vacuum system seems to be working well now, and I can even slide the temp off of '65' and still get the cold air - so I believe my sensor circuit is all good.

Bonus - I thought I had a leak in the lo-side schrader valve, but I still had cold air this am on the way to work, so everything had not leaked back down over night.

Bad news - after pulling the cluster and cleaning and tightening connectors, my volt and coolant temp gauge are still iffy sometimes. I think my foil is just on its last leg.

What's next? My radio does not work - very low on priority list; and cruise does not work yet. Just about time to start body work/sanding.

-scott

GT6ixer

Working AC! Nicely done!

Chris Lockhart

Scott I have some electrically conductive nickel paint that is used to fix busted foil paths. If you need to borrow some text me.