So even using 240 dollars worth of snap on line wrench goodness, the male end (car side) of the fuel (return?) Line rounded to all hell last night as the remains of the rubber hose broke free. So the hose is off finally. Keep in mind I am working with the engine out of the car. Not sure how anyone gets these out with the engine in situ.

Anyway, I would like to replace the male fitting. Looks to be like a normal bubble flare on the end of the metal line. I was going to cut tight to the flare, replace fitting and reflare. Any concerns I should have with this ?

My eyes are bleeding from searching but I don't see anything for these early lines.

Thanks

 

Best wrenches I've found for this job. They are a bit large around the ends and it takes some creativity to get them on the fuel lines (while on car and especially dual line models). But, they really work well...tighting around the fitting more as you apply pressure and they apply pressure on the flats of the fitting...not the corners.

Also, tighting the lines briefly/slightly...makes all the difference in the world (IMO). Once I tighten mine slightly, they loosened right up afterwards.

The flare looks like a typical (EDIT) bubble-flare to me.

Good luck,

Brian.

 

Thanks Brian, I did find your original post with these wrenches after mine had rounded but I will be adding a set to my tool box!

The flare on mine looks to be a bubble flare but I will give it a second look and add a pic

 

I may be a little tight to work a new flare while on the car. As you can see in the pic, I nicked it with the grinder

 

Correction, used wrong term...not a single flare...it is a bubble flare...sorry...darn fingers type what I'm been previously thinking...and not what I'm thinking at the moment.

Yes, that will be a very difficult flare. It looks like the flare is damaged or I'd suggest filing a smaller sized hex head shape to the ruined nut. I've done this before where there was enough material to do so.

Your best bet now is to pull the line down and make up a new piece and splice it in, in an area that is striaght.

Brian.

 

The return line doesn't come down without lowering the gearbox (or cutting and splicing w/adapters).
Bubble flare is a little tougher, but with engine out and a throw-away 'cut down' flaring clamp, it's worth a shot.
Also make sure to remove the line from the firewall clamp for more ingress.
More important, do you have an extra adapter to replace the rounded one?

 

Cut it off. Silver solder on a steel male -6 fitting. I can make you a custom line.

 

use the induct II to heat the solder joint is an expensive piece of tooling but no torches needed

 

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Better picture of bubble flare.



Just went out and look at my 78, and it looks pretty easy to get that line out of there.

Just unclip it from the body up front beneath your rounded fitting, maybe remove the bolt (pictured) on the heat shield for more wiggle room ( but there seems to be enough room to wiggle it out without removing bolt). Not sure if your 79 has the bell-housing crossmember, though this crossmember was 78 specific, but if you have one...there seems to be plenty of room to get it out between the body and crossmember.



Straighten tabs to unclip the rest of the fuel line hangers.



Remove rear fitting in front of passenger rear wheel well (hopefully being more successful than before), and you should be able to wiggle the line out of there.



Once removed...you'll have plenty of room to make whatever type of repair needed. If you need a new fitting...I will send you one.

Brian.

 

^^^ That's the feed line. Nice catch Brian! I read too fast last night and caught the word 'return'.

What Brian said. The feed line is easy to remove.

 

Thanks to all! Sorry about the confusion, this is actually the fuel feed line, not the return line, which is good news!

I think I am going to remove the line today and work on it off the car. Will report back my results. Thanks !

 

I'm going to be doing the same job as you on my '79 hope it's not too painful!

Keep us posted

 

Should have used this prior to putting a wrench on it. I have one available to me. Never thought it would be this difficult with the engine out. Damage done now

 

Interesting. They do seem to be tough to locate. I have a few parts cars but none are CIS cars.