Electric Supercharger/Super Bilge Blower???
10-17-2003, 12:36 PM
#1
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Electric Supercharger/Super Bilge Blower???
First the disclaimer: I (state your name) have no affiliation with this. I stumbled across this during a random 928 search to see whats out there. Looks like a bilge blower on steroids. Make sure you look at the video so you can see them blowing a Duraflame Log across the garage floor (interesting sales technique). It shows one in an 84 but they don't show both intake tubes. If only one blower was used, the advantage (if any) would blow right back out the other intake tube. They claim a 750 CFM flow but that doesn't seem like much more than a stock range of flow for a revved up 928. Oh and check the fuzzy pic of a dyno sheet. No numbers mentioned (?). Post your thoughts. Especially if its your red 928 in the pic. I'd love to hear if this thing does anything. I also see a red track car w/ 2 of the big 3's logo's on it being displayed at the site. Do you guys have any affiliation w/ this?
Blow or "Suck"?
Blow or "Suck"?
10-17-2003, 02:16 PM
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tresamore,
The only true electrically powered supercharger (not electrically powered leaf/duraflame log blower) on the market - is not really on the market.
It is done by a company called www.turbodyne.com , which is more screwed up, from an operations point of view, than Enron. They are currently strictly going for an OEM market, though at one point they were selling aftermarket.
If you read all the statements - not just the ones about the product - but all the financials, you'll wet your pants laughing at how someone could screw the pooch on this product and NOT be making money on it (AKA, "we know how to kill geese that lay golden eggs, we've done it several times here at Turbodyne..." ugh.
All that aside, when evaluating claims of electrical superchargers, find out the amp draw. It takes somewhere north of 5 HP to run a supercharger, no matter how efficient it is. And yes, I know, people can fake amp draws, so ask about HP output of the electric motor too. Let's have some scientific fun with this though...
Electrically speaking one HP =~746 Watts
For those who don't remember - Watts = Volts x Amps
So, rounding to 750 watts per hp and a MINIMUM of 5 HP to drive the blower - usually more like 10-15 HP on a centrifugal - but let's start with 5HP and assume your car's electrical system at 12 Volts under this monster load....
5 HP = 3750 Watts = 312.5 Amps @ 12 Volts
Gee, I bet you're gonna need a wire bigger than 12 Ga. huh?
Just for kicks, let's do 10 HP, as this is closer to what to the low-end of reality of power required for any supercharger under boost....
10 HP = 7500 Watts = 625 Amps @ 12 Volts
This is close to the cold-cranking amps required to start your car. Your battery can't do this for very long, and your alt is only adding 90-100 amps to the party. Better break out the 3/0....
There are ways of wiring a motor to be more efficient, there are ways of gearing things to make them work better. Yes, you could run a real supercharger off a starter motor, for a while anyway. Yes, it' been done before.
What these guys are selling is a fan. And you're right, if they are only using one, in one intake tube, they have either plugged the other one (not bright in this scenario) or just want to advertise how shallow their end of the gene-pool really is....
Greg
The only true electrically powered supercharger (not electrically powered leaf/duraflame log blower) on the market - is not really on the market.
It is done by a company called www.turbodyne.com , which is more screwed up, from an operations point of view, than Enron. They are currently strictly going for an OEM market, though at one point they were selling aftermarket.
If you read all the statements - not just the ones about the product - but all the financials, you'll wet your pants laughing at how someone could screw the pooch on this product and NOT be making money on it (AKA, "we know how to kill geese that lay golden eggs, we've done it several times here at Turbodyne..." ugh.
All that aside, when evaluating claims of electrical superchargers, find out the amp draw. It takes somewhere north of 5 HP to run a supercharger, no matter how efficient it is. And yes, I know, people can fake amp draws, so ask about HP output of the electric motor too. Let's have some scientific fun with this though...
Electrically speaking one HP =~746 Watts
For those who don't remember - Watts = Volts x Amps
So, rounding to 750 watts per hp and a MINIMUM of 5 HP to drive the blower - usually more like 10-15 HP on a centrifugal - but let's start with 5HP and assume your car's electrical system at 12 Volts under this monster load....
5 HP = 3750 Watts = 312.5 Amps @ 12 Volts
Gee, I bet you're gonna need a wire bigger than 12 Ga. huh?
Just for kicks, let's do 10 HP, as this is closer to what to the low-end of reality of power required for any supercharger under boost....
10 HP = 7500 Watts = 625 Amps @ 12 Volts
This is close to the cold-cranking amps required to start your car. Your battery can't do this for very long, and your alt is only adding 90-100 amps to the party. Better break out the 3/0....
There are ways of wiring a motor to be more efficient, there are ways of gearing things to make them work better. Yes, you could run a real supercharger off a starter motor, for a while anyway. Yes, it' been done before.
What these guys are selling is a fan. And you're right, if they are only using one, in one intake tube, they have either plugged the other one (not bright in this scenario) or just want to advertise how shallow their end of the gene-pool really is....
Greg
10-17-2003, 04:24 PM
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Did you guys and gals read the testimonies. The first one states that he got together with Mark Kibort the designer of the e-ram. Is that the same Mark Kibort the 928 racer??
10-17-2003, 04:26 PM
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Re: Electric Supercharger/Super Bilge Blower???
yes, thats the eRAM axial flow electric supercharger. we had two of them , one on the rear air box inlet and one on one side. (the other was closed off) 7hp to the rear wheels. 7ft lbs torque from 3000rpm to redline. we even did a successful dyno at a devek days too for all to see. it does work, but the limit is adding to 300hp, not much more. (ie 240 rear wheel)
750cfm is really 908cfm, but thats free air , no pressure.
also, keep in mind we did vacuum tests of a stock air box, sealed at 120mph. reaching 1/2" Hg vacuum. with the eRAM, we not only neutralized this vaccum, we added pressure,and then confired on the dyno. (HP gains were proportionate to the net pressure changes
remember,. we are talking about a 5% change in density. not that hard to imagine or calculate.
the next poster is all wet. Ill get to him next
Mark Kibort
eRACiNG Motorsports
750cfm is really 908cfm, but thats free air , no pressure.
also, keep in mind we did vacuum tests of a stock air box, sealed at 120mph. reaching 1/2" Hg vacuum. with the eRAM, we not only neutralized this vaccum, we added pressure,and then confired on the dyno. (HP gains were proportionate to the net pressure changes
remember,. we are talking about a 5% change in density. not that hard to imagine or calculate.
the next poster is all wet. Ill get to him next
Mark Kibort
eRACiNG Motorsports
Originally posted by tresamore
First the disclaimer: I (state your name) have no affiliation with this. I stumbled across this during a random 928 search to see whats out there. Looks like a bilge blower on steroids. Make sure you look at the video so you can see them blowing a Duraflame Log across the garage floor (interesting sales technique). It shows one in an 84 but they don't show both intake tubes. If only one blower was used, the advantage (if any) would blow right back out the other intake tube. They claim a 750 CFM flow but that doesn't seem like much more than a stock range of flow for a revved up 928. Oh and check the fuzzy pic of a dyno sheet. No numbers mentioned (?). Post your thoughts. Especially if its your red 928 in the pic. I'd love to hear if this thing does anything. I also see a red track car w/ 2 of the big 3's logo's on it being displayed at the site. Do you guys have any affiliation w/ this?
Blow or "Suck"?
First the disclaimer: I (state your name) have no affiliation with this. I stumbled across this during a random 928 search to see whats out there. Looks like a bilge blower on steroids. Make sure you look at the video so you can see them blowing a Duraflame Log across the garage floor (interesting sales technique). It shows one in an 84 but they don't show both intake tubes. If only one blower was used, the advantage (if any) would blow right back out the other intake tube. They claim a 750 CFM flow but that doesn't seem like much more than a stock range of flow for a revved up 928. Oh and check the fuzzy pic of a dyno sheet. No numbers mentioned (?). Post your thoughts. Especially if its your red 928 in the pic. I'd love to hear if this thing does anything. I also see a red track car w/ 2 of the big 3's logo's on it being displayed at the site. Do you guys have any affiliation w/ this?
Blow or "Suck"?
10-17-2003, 04:26 PM
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tresamore,
After reading the first testimonial, I assume that the red car belongs to Mark Kibort and he is in fact the designer of this item, so I think he would be the one to ask about this.
Guess I was a little slow on this one.
After reading the first testimonial, I assume that the red car belongs to Mark Kibort and he is in fact the designer of this item, so I think he would be the one to ask about this.
Guess I was a little slow on this one.
10-17-2003, 04:45 PM
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Greg, before you post things, you should make sure you have a handle on your math and logic. yes, Turbodyne had a electric supecharger,(centrifugal) and it was close to 100amps at 3psi at 100cfm. at the 300cfm range, the pressure was about 1psi. so, in effect, for a 3 liter engine, the eRAM at $300 bucks at 1psi, worked as well as their supercharger at $1500. Anyway, let me clear up some of your confusion below.
You start talking about how much hp is required to drive an electric motor to run a supercharger 5hp, 15hp, and so on. Remember, this would be the HP required to produce 5 to 6psi at flow rates of 3-400cfm. a rough number for you to hold on here , is about 1hp to drive 1psi at 2-300cfm. so, yes, if you wanted to drive a 5psi 300cfm supercharger, you would need about 5-10hp. (and yes, with all the inefficiencies of the motor, you would need a 10hp motor at least (so over 1000amps) WE ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT THIS. Now, lets try and wheel your arogance back in and look at the reality. stock 928 air boxes have 1/2" Hg vacuum at red line and at WOT. if you can relieve this alone, you can have that proportional gain. if you can add pressure and match the air flow, you can have a proportional gain.
The eRAM produces 908cfm in free air and some small pressuer at lower flow rates (ie a 4.7l engine woud require 500cfm at redine)
The net pressure gain by using the eRAM is around 1psi on a 3.2 liter porsche 911 that has a baseline of 200rear wheel hp. with the eRAM, we got around 10hp ,and this was repeated many times on different years and versions of this engine and porsche model.
So, the eRAM is a 700 -750 watt device, drawing between 50-55 amps and producing a net air box change of pressure of around 1psi. (ie 5%) HP gains are in the same range.
Now, you start going off about 10hp, and doing some calculations. were you equating the electrical power consumption to the power gains of the engine? I hope not. 1hp can gain 10hp with the superchargers ability to burn more air and fuel. the 1hp is what is required to make the air density 5% greater, period. the 5 % greater air density , matched with fuel , provides the 5% gains. seen across the board on all sorts of cars.
you have Ohms law stated correctly, but thats where your correct analysis ends.
Also, voltage and current from the alternator , depend on voltage drop of you battery. with the eRAMs operation at WOT only, in a racing condition (did I tell you we race and use it racing too?) anyway, the eRAM is easily able to be used in a racing environment. at a track like Laguna, you are only full throttle less than 50% of the time. that duty cycle is ok for over an hour of racing use. you even go into wire guage. 12 guage is plenty to carry 50amps for intermittant use. we also have a dual series eRAM that has double the pressure, as would be the principal if you stack axial flow fans.
before you start questioning what part of the gene pool we come from, you better look in the mirror. As far as I know, Im the only one here actually out there hanging the 928 on the line!
Any comments, reply respectfully. Think, then post. But, do you homework first.
Mark Kibort
eRACING Motorsports
Speed GT #19
Porsche 928S4 Al Holberts WR setting 928S4 turned race car.
QUOTE]Originally posted by gbyron
tresamore,
The only true electrically powered supercharger (not electrically powered leaf/duraflame log blower) on the market - is not really on the market.
It is done by a company called www.turbodyne.com , which is more screwed up, from an operations point of view, than Enron. They are currently strictly going for an OEM market, though at one point they were selling aftermarket.
If you read all the statements - not just the ones about the product - but all the financials, you'll wet your pants laughing at how someone could screw the pooch on this product and NOT be making money on it (AKA, "we know how to kill geese that lay golden eggs, we've done it several times here at Turbodyne..." ugh.
All that aside, when evaluating claims of electrical superchargers, find out the amp draw. It takes somewhere north of 5 HP to run a supercharger, no matter how efficient it is. And yes, I know, people can fake amp draws, so ask about HP output of the electric motor too. Let's have some scientific fun with this though...
Electrically speaking one HP =~746 Watts
For those who don't remember - Watts = Volts x Amps
So, rounding to 750 watts per hp and a MINIMUM of 5 HP to drive the blower - usually more like 10-15 HP on a centrifugal - but let's start with 5HP and assume your car's electrical system at 12 Volts under this monster load....
5 HP = 3750 Watts = 312.5 Amps @ 12 Volts
Gee, I bet you're gonna need a wire bigger than 12 Ga. huh?
Just for kicks, let's do 10 HP, as this is closer to what to the low-end of reality of power required for any supercharger under boost....
10 HP = 7500 Watts = 625 Amps @ 12 Volts
This is close to the cold-cranking amps required to start your car. Your battery can't do this for very long, and your alt is only adding 90-100 amps to the party. Better break out the 3/0....
There are ways of wiring a motor to be more efficient, there are ways of gearing things to make them work better. Yes, you could run a real supercharger off a starter motor, for a while anyway. Yes, it' been done before.
What these guys are selling is a fan. And you're right, if they are only using one, in one intake tube, they have either plugged the other one (not bright in this scenario) or just want to advertise how shallow their end of the gene-pool really is....
Greg [/QUOTE]
You start talking about how much hp is required to drive an electric motor to run a supercharger 5hp, 15hp, and so on. Remember, this would be the HP required to produce 5 to 6psi at flow rates of 3-400cfm. a rough number for you to hold on here , is about 1hp to drive 1psi at 2-300cfm. so, yes, if you wanted to drive a 5psi 300cfm supercharger, you would need about 5-10hp. (and yes, with all the inefficiencies of the motor, you would need a 10hp motor at least (so over 1000amps) WE ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT THIS. Now, lets try and wheel your arogance back in and look at the reality. stock 928 air boxes have 1/2" Hg vacuum at red line and at WOT. if you can relieve this alone, you can have that proportional gain. if you can add pressure and match the air flow, you can have a proportional gain.
The eRAM produces 908cfm in free air and some small pressuer at lower flow rates (ie a 4.7l engine woud require 500cfm at redine)
The net pressure gain by using the eRAM is around 1psi on a 3.2 liter porsche 911 that has a baseline of 200rear wheel hp. with the eRAM, we got around 10hp ,and this was repeated many times on different years and versions of this engine and porsche model.
So, the eRAM is a 700 -750 watt device, drawing between 50-55 amps and producing a net air box change of pressure of around 1psi. (ie 5%) HP gains are in the same range.
Now, you start going off about 10hp, and doing some calculations. were you equating the electrical power consumption to the power gains of the engine? I hope not. 1hp can gain 10hp with the superchargers ability to burn more air and fuel. the 1hp is what is required to make the air density 5% greater, period. the 5 % greater air density , matched with fuel , provides the 5% gains. seen across the board on all sorts of cars.
you have Ohms law stated correctly, but thats where your correct analysis ends.
Also, voltage and current from the alternator , depend on voltage drop of you battery. with the eRAMs operation at WOT only, in a racing condition (did I tell you we race and use it racing too?) anyway, the eRAM is easily able to be used in a racing environment. at a track like Laguna, you are only full throttle less than 50% of the time. that duty cycle is ok for over an hour of racing use. you even go into wire guage. 12 guage is plenty to carry 50amps for intermittant use. we also have a dual series eRAM that has double the pressure, as would be the principal if you stack axial flow fans.
before you start questioning what part of the gene pool we come from, you better look in the mirror. As far as I know, Im the only one here actually out there hanging the 928 on the line!
Any comments, reply respectfully. Think, then post. But, do you homework first.
Mark Kibort
eRACING Motorsports
Speed GT #19
Porsche 928S4 Al Holberts WR setting 928S4 turned race car.
QUOTE]Originally posted by gbyron
tresamore,
The only true electrically powered supercharger (not electrically powered leaf/duraflame log blower) on the market - is not really on the market.
It is done by a company called www.turbodyne.com , which is more screwed up, from an operations point of view, than Enron. They are currently strictly going for an OEM market, though at one point they were selling aftermarket.
If you read all the statements - not just the ones about the product - but all the financials, you'll wet your pants laughing at how someone could screw the pooch on this product and NOT be making money on it (AKA, "we know how to kill geese that lay golden eggs, we've done it several times here at Turbodyne..." ugh.
All that aside, when evaluating claims of electrical superchargers, find out the amp draw. It takes somewhere north of 5 HP to run a supercharger, no matter how efficient it is. And yes, I know, people can fake amp draws, so ask about HP output of the electric motor too. Let's have some scientific fun with this though...
Electrically speaking one HP =~746 Watts
For those who don't remember - Watts = Volts x Amps
So, rounding to 750 watts per hp and a MINIMUM of 5 HP to drive the blower - usually more like 10-15 HP on a centrifugal - but let's start with 5HP and assume your car's electrical system at 12 Volts under this monster load....
5 HP = 3750 Watts = 312.5 Amps @ 12 Volts
Gee, I bet you're gonna need a wire bigger than 12 Ga. huh?
Just for kicks, let's do 10 HP, as this is closer to what to the low-end of reality of power required for any supercharger under boost....
10 HP = 7500 Watts = 625 Amps @ 12 Volts
This is close to the cold-cranking amps required to start your car. Your battery can't do this for very long, and your alt is only adding 90-100 amps to the party. Better break out the 3/0....
There are ways of wiring a motor to be more efficient, there are ways of gearing things to make them work better. Yes, you could run a real supercharger off a starter motor, for a while anyway. Yes, it' been done before.
What these guys are selling is a fan. And you're right, if they are only using one, in one intake tube, they have either plugged the other one (not bright in this scenario) or just want to advertise how shallow their end of the gene-pool really is....
Greg [/QUOTE]
Last edited by mark kibort; 10-17-2003 at 05:19 PM.
10-17-2003, 05:13 PM
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I remember Gregg Peabody putting two bilge pumps on his S4 a few years ago. Everyone argued the same arguement with ohm's and watts law then. But it did make a slight difference. For further proof as well, contact Gregg.
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10-17-2003, 05:27 PM
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The biggest problem we have had, is removing the boat vent fans ( "bilge pumps are used for water on boats" )from ebay. they are scams and are only 2 amps at 12 volts. We own the axial flow electric supercharger patent, and have a right to remove these clowns. Using gregs Ohm's law, we see the vent fans are around 25 watts. now the eRAM is 700watts plus. they cannot even keep up with the air flow. their specs for these fans are around 150cfm, but absolutely no pressure. remember , it takes power to make power. These things are a rip off. guys are selling a $12 fan for $50 on ebay.
we use the demo on the site of the fan blowing a duraflame log accoss the floor, or flying upward , to prove the 3lbs of thrust out of this fan running on a car electrical system. If someone wants, they can run through the calculations to find out all sorts of characteristics of the 3.5
diameter outlet fan. (ie pressure, air speed, etc) . If someone cant do these calculations, they shouldnt be challenging the potential effects of the device. (any first year aero engineering student should be able to help here)
mk
QUOTE]Originally posted by Dozman
I remember Gregg Peabody putting two bilge pumps on his S4 a few years ago. Everyone argued the same arguement with ohm's and watts law then. But it did make a slight difference. For further proof as well, contact Gregg. [/QUOTE]
we use the demo on the site of the fan blowing a duraflame log accoss the floor, or flying upward , to prove the 3lbs of thrust out of this fan running on a car electrical system. If someone wants, they can run through the calculations to find out all sorts of characteristics of the 3.5
diameter outlet fan. (ie pressure, air speed, etc) . If someone cant do these calculations, they shouldnt be challenging the potential effects of the device. (any first year aero engineering student should be able to help here)
mk
QUOTE]Originally posted by Dozman
I remember Gregg Peabody putting two bilge pumps on his S4 a few years ago. Everyone argued the same arguement with ohm's and watts law then. But it did make a slight difference. For further proof as well, contact Gregg. [/QUOTE]
10-17-2003, 05:27 PM
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Sic 'em Mark. .. good boy! ha ha, just kidding. My real comment is this: Could you run the electric supercharger all the time, up and down the rpm range without some electrical power/draw issue? -
What if you could yank the smog pump and fit a secont alt. to drive the blower exclusivly? - Ruf
What if you could yank the smog pump and fit a secont alt. to drive the blower exclusivly? - Ruf
Last edited by Rufus Sanders; 10-17-2003 at 05:51 PM.
10-17-2003, 06:05 PM
#10
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I think your question is , "can I run it at full throttle, at any rpm" and the answer would be "yes". no need for the fan to turn on at any time but full throttle. after all , at any time but full throttle, the throttle is the "choke" . (or technically, a variable pressure drop device)
no need to get alternate power sourses, as we did in the early days. (3 6 volt batteries in series to power the fan and slightly over drive it.) however, with a different winding, we were able to run it directly off the 13.5 volt of the car's electrical and have the same power . Hey greg, remember I (squared) X R? (we got a motor with slightly less turns to produce the same power as the original 18 volts system. anyway,
becuause with most 928s, there is a HUGE battery sitting idle, you can put it to use for this application. plenty of of time not at WOT to replenish any electrons that were used in the WOT boost activity. Just because you draw 100-300amps, doesnt mean the alternator has to match it. Again, it works on voltage drop , and generally, at 50amps, the voltage drops about .5 volts and the alternator puts in 10-20more amps. Think about starters.. 300-500amps, and the alternator usually has a max capasity of 90amps. where does the rest come from?? The battery, right!!!!!
MK
QUOTE]Originally posted by Rufus Sanders
Sic 'em Mark. .. good boy! ha ha, just kidding. My real comment is this: Could you run the electric supercharger all the time, up and down the rpm range without some electrical power/draw issue? -
What if you could yank the smog pump and fit a secont alt. to drive the blower exclusivly? - Ruf [/QUOTE]
no need to get alternate power sourses, as we did in the early days. (3 6 volt batteries in series to power the fan and slightly over drive it.) however, with a different winding, we were able to run it directly off the 13.5 volt of the car's electrical and have the same power . Hey greg, remember I (squared) X R? (we got a motor with slightly less turns to produce the same power as the original 18 volts system. anyway,
becuause with most 928s, there is a HUGE battery sitting idle, you can put it to use for this application. plenty of of time not at WOT to replenish any electrons that were used in the WOT boost activity. Just because you draw 100-300amps, doesnt mean the alternator has to match it. Again, it works on voltage drop , and generally, at 50amps, the voltage drops about .5 volts and the alternator puts in 10-20more amps. Think about starters.. 300-500amps, and the alternator usually has a max capasity of 90amps. where does the rest come from?? The battery, right!!!!!
MK
QUOTE]Originally posted by Rufus Sanders
Sic 'em Mark. .. good boy! ha ha, just kidding. My real comment is this: Could you run the electric supercharger all the time, up and down the rpm range without some electrical power/draw issue? -
What if you could yank the smog pump and fit a secont alt. to drive the blower exclusivly? - Ruf [/QUOTE]
10-17-2003, 06:14 PM
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Thanks Mark. So why do normal superchargers turn all the time, even at part throttle? Shouldn't they clutch it or operate it somehow to only turn at WOT? (more dumb questions, but hey, that's why I read this site!) - Ruf
10-17-2003, 07:00 PM
#13
The best way to achieve variable speed on the Kibort device is to use a variable speed motor drive/controller that is controlled by throttle position.
No throttle = low fan speed/low current draw
Full throttle = high fan speed/high current draw
This would operate similarly to the fans on later 928s
No throttle = low fan speed/low current draw
Full throttle = high fan speed/high current draw
This would operate similarly to the fans on later 928s
10-17-2003, 07:19 PM
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Well Mark I was not challenging your product. Several owners around the Detroit area did see a slight improvement with the pumps Gregg Peabody installed first hand.
Did the increased air flow from the pumps improve the performance of the car, Yes it did. I did not say it would give 5,10,50 horsepower. No I did not.
Did the increased air flow from the pumps improve the performance of the car, Yes it did. I did not say it would give 5,10,50 horsepower. No I did not.
10-17-2003, 07:25 PM
#15
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one of the patent claims is the binary control (either on or off) There really is no reason for the fan to be creating any pressure at any time other than full throttle. remember, throttle means "choke" so, at part throttle, (ie part choke) ,why would you want to add pressure to a device that is removing it!? so, better said: No throttle, no fan, full throttle HIGH FAN!
this way, you rid the cost of expensive motor controllers. not to mentnion the fact that at any RPM when you are floored, you want the max possible HP. so, the fan , if activated would be Full on!
MK
this way, you rid the cost of expensive motor controllers. not to mentnion the fact that at any RPM when you are floored, you want the max possible HP. so, the fan , if activated would be Full on!
MK
Originally posted by Scott C
The best way to achieve variable speed on the Kibort device is to use a variable speed motor drive/controller that is controlled by throttle position.
No throttle = low fan speed/low current draw
Full throttle = high fan speed/high current draw
This would operate similarly to the fans on later 928s
The best way to achieve variable speed on the Kibort device is to use a variable speed motor drive/controller that is controlled by throttle position.
No throttle = low fan speed/low current draw
Full throttle = high fan speed/high current draw
This would operate similarly to the fans on later 928s