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Not height adjustable, I'll keep using the cross members (both front wheels, then both rear) to jack the car and place the stands right on the jack points, or use the lift bars.
Not height adjustable, I'll keep using the cross members (both front wheels, then both rear) to jack the car and place the stands right on the jack points, or use the lift bars.
These are 300 bucks and limited usage IMO.
Thank you Dave. i will investigate further. But if all goes according to plan, i should have a scissor lift eventually !
These are each a lot like half of a liftbar, with none of the advantages of the PorKen liftbars, yet at a higher total cost. They do probably store a little more conveniently though.
A lot of the 911 guys use these. I introduced several to the lift bars as they fit 996, 997 etc. The guys I talked to didn't know the lift bars existed and I know 1 who bought them and was amazed at how easy it makes lifting the car. The only caveat is you have to get a low profile jack to use with them and in my case, I drive the 996 up on a couple 1x6s for another 1.5 inches to get my low profile jack and lift bars under the car.
I bought a pair of these waaay back when OB liftbars were NLA.
They are brilliant, super sturdy, and very easy to use and store.
I felt very safe working beneath the car with these.
FWIW, they also fit my good son's BMW and my evil son's 944.
I have a 4-post BB, Liftbars, and 4 Jackpoints. As far as a jackstand goes, the Jackpoints are the best. You can also buy a higher lift top plate and you can stack the standard top plate and higher lift top plates together for additional height. The plates have a ring cut into the top surface that mates with a groove cut into the bottom surface of 2 plates. I also use Rennline's Jack pad which goes up into the oval Jack hole and turns 90 degrees to lock in, and wouldn't you know it, the diameter of their jackets pad is the exact size to sit into the center recess on the Jackpoints standard top plate, so this adds another 1.5" of height or so.
I swapped complete brake systems between 2 997s and had one on the lift and the other up on the Jackpoints, and it made it so easy. I also use the Jackpoints when there's a bigger project going on with the lift and I need to do something else to a different car.
I just don't think you can beat the height that the liftbars give you. When you work under a car on the concrete, every inch counts. I have a long reach floor jack and jack stands, and having 24" of clearance is fantastic. The lift bars, while I don't own them YET, add another 2" if I remember correctly. I don't know if I'd feel comfortable with stacking plates on this system to get the same height.
Let's just say I wanted 20" of height under the car. I'd need two sets of standard height jack-stands (12" plus 1.5" pad) at $375/pair, and 10 pairs of spacer plates at $80/pair (5 for each side, don't even know if they add 1" each, looks like they don't), for a grand total of $1550 plus shipping. Damn.
Porken Liftbars give me 26" of height using Harbor Freight long reach 6 ton jackstands at $50/pair, and $280 for the liftbars themselves. So, $1550 plus shipping for option 1, vs $480 to my door for option 2. And, let's not forget you'd only jacking 1x per side with liftbars.
A lot of the 911 guys use these. I introduced several to the lift bars as they fit 996, 997 etc. The guys I talked to didn't know the lift bars existed and I know 1 who bought them and was amazed at how easy it makes lifting the car. The only caveat is you have to get a low profile jack to use with them and in my case, I drive the 996 up on a couple 1x6s for another 1.5 inches to get my low profile jack and lift bars under the car.
Andre, Quit crawling around on your cold concrete floor and do yourself a HUGE favor. Purchase a 4 or 2 post lift (providing you have the ceiling height) for approx. $2,000-2,500) If not: http://liftbars.com .02 T
I don't think the Jackpoints are an "instead of", but rather an "in addition to" if you can swing it. They're wonderful for wheel & brake work and things where you aren't necessarily working deep under the car.
Originally Posted by traxtar928
I just don't think you can beat the height that the liftbars give you. When you work under a car on the concrete, every inch counts. I have a long reach floor jack and jack stands, and having 24" of clearance is fantastic. The lift bars, while I don't own them YET, add another 2" if I remember correctly. I don't know if I'd feel comfortable with stacking plates on this system to get the same height.
Let's just say I wanted 20" of height under the car. I'd need two sets of standard height jack-stands (12" plus 1.5" pad) at $375/pair, and 10 pairs of spacer plates at $80/pair (5 for each side, don't even know if they add 1" each, looks like they don't), for a grand total of $1550 plus shipping. Damn.
Porken Liftbars give me 26" of height using Harbor Freight long reach 6 ton jackstands at $50/pair, and $280 for the liftbars themselves. So, $1550 plus shipping for option 1, vs $480 to my door for option 2. And, let's not forget you'd only jacking 1x per side with liftbars.
This is what I use, four 6 ton jackstands with a hockey puck in between the jack pad and the stand. I raise the car with a heavy floor jack using the front and rear cross members like DaveK. This pic is my stands in the lowest position it will go another foot higher. Super solid I never have worries going underneath.
05-17-2016, 03:02 PM
