928s for Sale
#6796
Nate,
Seems like a very practical and sage approach from what I read. Experience adds a degree of depth and today's meters should be able to measure both aluminum as well as steel and should come with a standard to calibrate the meter prior to use for both. A good guide but not necessarily all gospel.
Dave,
A lot to go through although IMO you can drive yourself crazy overthinking this. The increased values has everyone going nuts over originality and authenticity. I look for obvious issues and clean car. If it looks as good as new why sweet it. To determine if some cars have been painted can be an exercise others are obvious just by looking at high res photos. Factory should have no obvious signs since they are painted as a shell. reworked at the ports should be to a high standard and hard to dispute. Many times cars are damaged at the dealership and reworked without ever being disclosed.
There are also other considerations. I look at the entire car. Wear on the interior vs condition of paint and condition of the underside they usually all go hand in hand and tell the cars story.
As far as my Amazon GTS it is entirely different than my Amazon 93 C2. The GTS has a fine flake the C2 course. My cobalt turbo color shifts more than most Cobalt cars I have seen. For some reason some shift more than others. This only makes it that much harder to match if there was a need.
Paints have changed considerably as well as techniques. My friend when paid to do this type of blending spends a lot of time prepping to paint. He may shoot several test panels and settings to get the desired results and uses lighting and his experience to determine if it is a match. I find he has a passion and artistic approach as well as an understanding of the materials he is using. Usually he knows before he starts how difficult or possible it is to match.
Regarding metallic paints vs solid cars they both are an issue IMO. As most painters are no loner capable of painting single stage and requires an entirely different skill set. AFAIK the solid colors were still single stage through 95 vs base clear and almost always you see solid colors repainted base clear. Easy enough to tell. By mid 90's they also changed from solvent based to water born paints and this also adds to the mix.
My experiences shows me that most top side numbers are thinner than side panels on average. Acid rain and sun damage easily occurs due to the soft paints of the day. People usually allow it to go too far and then have someone buff out the damage thinning the paints. Usually high numbers on the sunroof indicates rework at some point.
I always meter multiple points on each panel. Depending on impressions, miles and what I see initially, I might take a few or many over the entire panel. I find the paint can tell a story about what was done. Hard to explain just something I learned by using a meter and looking at numerous cars for people.
There are cars I know of that have been completely stripped and resprayed showing numbers in the 6's consistently. Full bare metal everything out restorations and pricey. Most aren't that precise. I have also seen cars I have metered that looked great win Preservation class at Parade with more than 75% of the topside of the car painted. So even the Judges can't always tell.
Play with the meter it is a good tool but a trained eye is equally as important.
Seems like a very practical and sage approach from what I read. Experience adds a degree of depth and today's meters should be able to measure both aluminum as well as steel and should come with a standard to calibrate the meter prior to use for both. A good guide but not necessarily all gospel.
Dave,
A lot to go through although IMO you can drive yourself crazy overthinking this. The increased values has everyone going nuts over originality and authenticity. I look for obvious issues and clean car. If it looks as good as new why sweet it. To determine if some cars have been painted can be an exercise others are obvious just by looking at high res photos. Factory should have no obvious signs since they are painted as a shell. reworked at the ports should be to a high standard and hard to dispute. Many times cars are damaged at the dealership and reworked without ever being disclosed.
There are also other considerations. I look at the entire car. Wear on the interior vs condition of paint and condition of the underside they usually all go hand in hand and tell the cars story.
As far as my Amazon GTS it is entirely different than my Amazon 93 C2. The GTS has a fine flake the C2 course. My cobalt turbo color shifts more than most Cobalt cars I have seen. For some reason some shift more than others. This only makes it that much harder to match if there was a need.
Paints have changed considerably as well as techniques. My friend when paid to do this type of blending spends a lot of time prepping to paint. He may shoot several test panels and settings to get the desired results and uses lighting and his experience to determine if it is a match. I find he has a passion and artistic approach as well as an understanding of the materials he is using. Usually he knows before he starts how difficult or possible it is to match.
Regarding metallic paints vs solid cars they both are an issue IMO. As most painters are no loner capable of painting single stage and requires an entirely different skill set. AFAIK the solid colors were still single stage through 95 vs base clear and almost always you see solid colors repainted base clear. Easy enough to tell. By mid 90's they also changed from solvent based to water born paints and this also adds to the mix.
My experiences shows me that most top side numbers are thinner than side panels on average. Acid rain and sun damage easily occurs due to the soft paints of the day. People usually allow it to go too far and then have someone buff out the damage thinning the paints. Usually high numbers on the sunroof indicates rework at some point.
I always meter multiple points on each panel. Depending on impressions, miles and what I see initially, I might take a few or many over the entire panel. I find the paint can tell a story about what was done. Hard to explain just something I learned by using a meter and looking at numerous cars for people.
There are cars I know of that have been completely stripped and resprayed showing numbers in the 6's consistently. Full bare metal everything out restorations and pricey. Most aren't that precise. I have also seen cars I have metered that looked great win Preservation class at Parade with more than 75% of the topside of the car painted. So even the Judges can't always tell.
Play with the meter it is a good tool but a trained eye is equally as important.
#6797
'78 manual, cork interior
There is a '78 manual for $1500 in NJ. Needs everything and does not run but for the price it might be a good parts car for the hard to find early parts. 9288200895
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/pla...869333404.html
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/pla...869333404.html
#6798
'78 parts car
-early 3 spoke steering wheel
-16" phone dials
-8" H4 head lights
-undamaged radio surround
-decent shape cork vinyl doors
-more than decent passenger seat (except the bottom)
-extra new air intake tubes (stickers still on)
-extra alternators (may or may not work of course)
-looks like original rear muffler (therefore likely original mid-muffler), worth the whole asking price if they are not rusted/rotten
-16" phone dials
-8" H4 head lights
-undamaged radio surround
-decent shape cork vinyl doors
-more than decent passenger seat (except the bottom)
-extra new air intake tubes (stickers still on)
-extra alternators (may or may not work of course)
-looks like original rear muffler (therefore likely original mid-muffler), worth the whole asking price if they are not rusted/rotten
There is a '78 manual for $1500 in NJ. Needs everything and does not run but for the price it might be a good parts car for the hard to find early parts. 9288200895
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/pla...869333404.html
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/pla...869333404.html
#6799
Hey guys. This is a car I’m selling. It’s exactly as described.
Body and paint are as good as I’ve seen. Interior is nice. Typical wear but in great shape. No rips or tears.
Full leather. Some pulling around the dash vents. No cracking.
Car hasn’t had much done to it. Very original. Same owner last 13 years. About 10k miles in that time. 75k total.
Motor pulls great. Gear box will need a refresh at some point.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Porsche-928-/233202378414
Body and paint are as good as I’ve seen. Interior is nice. Typical wear but in great shape. No rips or tears.
Full leather. Some pulling around the dash vents. No cracking.
Car hasn’t had much done to it. Very original. Same owner last 13 years. About 10k miles in that time. 75k total.
Motor pulls great. Gear box will need a refresh at some point.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Porsche-928-/233202378414
#6800
-early 3 spoke steering wheel
-16" phone dials
-8" H4 head lights
-undamaged radio surround
-decent shape cork vinyl doors
-more than decent passenger seat (except the bottom)
-extra new air intake tubes (stickers still on)
-extra alternators (may or may not work of course)
-looks like original rear muffler (therefore likely original mid-muffler), worth the whole asking price if they are not rusted/rotten
-16" phone dials
-8" H4 head lights
-undamaged radio surround
-decent shape cork vinyl doors
-more than decent passenger seat (except the bottom)
-extra new air intake tubes (stickers still on)
-extra alternators (may or may not work of course)
-looks like original rear muffler (therefore likely original mid-muffler), worth the whole asking price if they are not rusted/rotten
#6801
It looks like there are speakers mounted low and toward the back on the doors. I've never seen that before.
#6802
That could be a killer deal for someone, what is your asking price off e-bay?
Hey guys. This is a car I’m selling. It’s exactly as described.
Body and paint are as good as I’ve seen. Interior is nice. Typical wear but in great shape. No rips or tears.
Full leather. Some pulling around the dash vents. No cracking.
Car hasn’t had much done to it. Very original. Same owner last 13 years. About 10k miles in that time. 75k total.
Motor pulls great. Gear box will need a refresh at some point.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Porsche-928-/233202378414
Body and paint are as good as I’ve seen. Interior is nice. Typical wear but in great shape. No rips or tears.
Full leather. Some pulling around the dash vents. No cracking.
Car hasn’t had much done to it. Very original. Same owner last 13 years. About 10k miles in that time. 75k total.
Motor pulls great. Gear box will need a refresh at some point.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Porsche-928-/233202378414
#6804
#6805
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
No affiliation. 75k is a bit nuts for a Japan import IMO.
No affiliation. 75k is a bit nuts for a Japan import IMO.
#6807
#6808
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
No affiliation. 75k is a bit nuts for a Japan import IMO.
No affiliation. 75k is a bit nuts for a Japan import IMO.
#6809
[QUOTE=77tony;15786302]^^Seems to be a reasonable asking price for a MY93 GTS. T
[/QUO
TE]
The trick is to get it out of Canada. Our economy is in the tank and our market is small, plus we have tons of Japan imports on our roads which are typically worth much less. But, I hope the seller gets every cent. If anyone wants eyes on it I can look at it.
There is also an 87 5sp for 45k cdn and an 89 for 22k cdn, on Kijiji as well.
The 87 sounds really nice, we were going to look at it today but plans changed. I looked at the 89 last week but it has been sitting outside for a few years and needs a ton mechanically, but the paint was good.
89
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
87 (no lsd per vin)
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
[/QUO
TE]
The trick is to get it out of Canada. Our economy is in the tank and our market is small, plus we have tons of Japan imports on our roads which are typically worth much less. But, I hope the seller gets every cent. If anyone wants eyes on it I can look at it.
There is also an 87 5sp for 45k cdn and an 89 for 22k cdn, on Kijiji as well.
The 87 sounds really nice, we were going to look at it today but plans changed. I looked at the 89 last week but it has been sitting outside for a few years and needs a ton mechanically, but the paint was good.
89
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
87 (no lsd per vin)
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
#6810
Early '86 on CL. 174K miles but the condition looks really good from the few photos posted. Has some nice upgrades and the seller seems knowledgeable about 928s. Also says he has a spare '85 engine and transmission along with some other parts he would include in the sale. Asking $8200. This seems too good to be true, but maybe you never know. Hopefully one of you Wisconsin boys can check it out and report back.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/w...849095324.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/w...849095324.html