1986 928 Oil Change DIY
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
1986 928 Oil Change DIY
I am looking to do some of the basic maintenance items on our new vehicle. Could someone point me in the right direction as to a link on DIY oil changes. Did a couple of searches & didn't come up with anything as of yet.
As a side note, I did also join the 928OC membership.
Also, where do most of you get your 928 parts/items from.
As a side note, I did also join the 928OC membership.
Also, where do most of you get your 928 parts/items from.
#2
Rennlist Member
Parts I get from 928intl, ROger, 928motorsports. Oil change is pretty straight forward. Personally I get the car good and warm put on lift and change. (luckily I do have a lift) Something that may be forgotten is the crush ring on oil drain. It needs changing along with filter and oil.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Parts I get from 928intl, ROger, 928motorsports. Oil change is pretty straight forward. Personally I get the car good and warm put on lift and change. (luckily I do have a lift) Something that may be forgotten is the crush ring on oil drain. It needs changing along with filter and oil.
Roger tapes a new crush ring to the filter box.
The oil change is pretty straight forward. Get the car up in the air (I use ramps to keep the front suspension compressed). Take out the drain plug, let the oil drain. Keep in mind that there's 8+ quarts in there - Use a big enough pan (you will only make that mistake once). Filter is a spin on, same as any other. Drain plug torques to 44 ft-lbs. Fill it up.
Do not, under any circumstances, start a thread asking "What oil should I use?"
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checkmate1996 (05-14-2024)
#4
Nordschleife Master
Undo the plug. Look for the sealing ring.
Swap the pans in the middle of draining (Or have a big pan.)
While it's dripping, remove and replace the oil filter.
Make sure the rubber seal on the filter isn't stuck to the block.
Tighten the oil filter per the instructions on the filter. Don't crank it too tight.
Replace the drain plug and (usually) use a new sealing ring.
Tighten to 20Nm. That's not terribly tight but the pan is an aluminum casting and you, Big Arms, can strip that thing like nothing
Fill with 7qts of oil. It'll take somewhere between 7.5 and 9 quarts.
Run the engine for a bit and let it rest. (Good time to fill the disposal jugs)
Check underneath for leaks.
Check the oil level and top up to the full line.
928 International, Vertex, Pelican, RockAuto
#5
Rennlist Member
As said above it's an Oil change, however the drain is in the front of the pan, I put the car up on 4 jack stands so it's level, same doing the Auto or manual trans fluids.
As for the oil, use your favorite flavor (considering the weather temp's you normally drive).
Most important keep in mind this is a Flat Tappet engine so you need the proper amount of Zink, or use a Zink additive found at most auto stores (not a break in additive or cleaner), but a Zink booster for newer oil to work in older engines.
I use a 10 qt oil drain pan, holds it all easily
Dave K
As for the oil, use your favorite flavor (considering the weather temp's you normally drive).
Most important keep in mind this is a Flat Tappet engine so you need the proper amount of Zink, or use a Zink additive found at most auto stores (not a break in additive or cleaner), but a Zink booster for newer oil to work in older engines.
I use a 10 qt oil drain pan, holds it all easily
Dave K
#7
Rennlist Member
^^^^ I wouldn't go there ^^^^ it's a deep hole, long journey
The type of oil you use depends on how you drive / use the car and what the local climates are that's what should determine oil viscosity / type, 20w/ 50 is not a blanket fits all oil for every 928.
If that is the oil you like to use and it works for you then its your suggested oil, right?
IMO I like Mobil 1 15w/50 with an additive for DE's, but not for casual street usage, it takes too long to get up to temp on colder days here in MI where avg temps are 70's in the summer and find a 10w/40 weight works just fine in holding oil pressure at hot idle, there are too many variables (how loose is the engine, 16 or 32 valve, Auto or manual, etc).
Follow the owners manual and use the oil pressure gauge as a guide when engine is at a hot idle in traffic, if it is too low a pressure then you need a thicker weight
Sorry not trying to start another oil war, just saying one size doesn't fit all.
Dave
The type of oil you use depends on how you drive / use the car and what the local climates are that's what should determine oil viscosity / type, 20w/ 50 is not a blanket fits all oil for every 928.
If that is the oil you like to use and it works for you then its your suggested oil, right?
IMO I like Mobil 1 15w/50 with an additive for DE's, but not for casual street usage, it takes too long to get up to temp on colder days here in MI where avg temps are 70's in the summer and find a 10w/40 weight works just fine in holding oil pressure at hot idle, there are too many variables (how loose is the engine, 16 or 32 valve, Auto or manual, etc).
Follow the owners manual and use the oil pressure gauge as a guide when engine is at a hot idle in traffic, if it is too low a pressure then you need a thicker weight
Sorry not trying to start another oil war, just saying one size doesn't fit all.
Dave
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#8
Under the Lift
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Put a drain pan under the plug. Have a second pan ready as the engine holds a lot of oil.
Undo the plug. Look for the sealing ring.
Swap the pans in the middle of draining (Or have a big pan.)
While it's dripping, remove and replace the oil filter.
Fill the new filter about 3/4ths full with fresh oil.
Make sure the rubber seal on the filter isn't stuck to the block.
Tighten the oil filter per the instructions on the filter. Don't crank it too tight.
Replace the drain plug and (usually) use a new sealing ring.
Tighten to 20Nm. That's not terribly tight but the pan is an aluminum casting and you, Big Arms, can strip that thing like nothing
Fill with 7qts of oil. It'll take somewhere between 7.5 and 9 quarts.
Run the engine for a bit and let it rest. (Good time to fill the disposal jugs)
Check underneath for leaks.
Check the oil level and top up to the full line.
Undo the plug. Look for the sealing ring.
Swap the pans in the middle of draining (Or have a big pan.)
While it's dripping, remove and replace the oil filter.
Fill the new filter about 3/4ths full with fresh oil.
Make sure the rubber seal on the filter isn't stuck to the block.
Tighten the oil filter per the instructions on the filter. Don't crank it too tight.
Replace the drain plug and (usually) use a new sealing ring.
Tighten to 20Nm. That's not terribly tight but the pan is an aluminum casting and you, Big Arms, can strip that thing like nothing
Fill with 7qts of oil. It'll take somewhere between 7.5 and 9 quarts.
Run the engine for a bit and let it rest. (Good time to fill the disposal jugs)
Check underneath for leaks.
Check the oil level and top up to the full line.
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SPS1989 (05-08-2024)
#10
Yea don't get the oil catcher of exactly 8 quarts, we have a minimum of 8 quarts in there. So a 10-15 range oil catcher.
Trust me on that. Luckly I did it on the pavement and not in the garage still looks ugly though especially after letting a fresh tank of Cheveron (Techron additive) run through (via gasoline not engine oil, and not the techron bottle either just the gasoline), man that was dirty like pure extra super dark chocolate.
As for oil there are only a few out there that meets our requirements.
If you have not done a top refresh yet or it isn't planned until later, I do recommend NOT going synthetic yet, unless it already has it due to seals.
Also do note the local oil availability, in my area the 20-50 vavoline and 20-50 royal purple is easy to get, but everything else is hard (especially with our 8-10 quart size engine)
Trust me on that. Luckly I did it on the pavement and not in the garage still looks ugly though especially after letting a fresh tank of Cheveron (Techron additive) run through (via gasoline not engine oil, and not the techron bottle either just the gasoline), man that was dirty like pure extra super dark chocolate.
As for oil there are only a few out there that meets our requirements.
If you have not done a top refresh yet or it isn't planned until later, I do recommend NOT going synthetic yet, unless it already has it due to seals.
Also do note the local oil availability, in my area the 20-50 vavoline and 20-50 royal purple is easy to get, but everything else is hard (especially with our 8-10 quart size engine)
#12
Under the Lift
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#13
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^^^^ I wouldn't go there ^^^^ it's a deep hole, long journey
The type of oil you use depends on how you drive / use the car and what the local climates are that's what should determine oil viscosity / type, 20w/ 50 is not a blanket fits all oil for every 928.
If that is the oil you like to use and it works for you then its your suggested oil, right?
IMO I like Mobil 1 15w/50 with an additive for DE's, but not for casual street usage, it takes too long to get up to temp on colder days here in MI where avg temps are 70's in the summer and find a 10w/40 weight works just fine in holding oil pressure at hot idle, there are too many variables (how loose is the engine, 16 or 32 valve, Auto or manual, etc).
Follow the owners manual and use the oil pressure gauge as a guide when engine is at a hot idle in traffic, if it is too low a pressure then you need a thicker weight
Sorry not trying to start another oil war, just saying one size doesn't fit all.
Dave
The type of oil you use depends on how you drive / use the car and what the local climates are that's what should determine oil viscosity / type, 20w/ 50 is not a blanket fits all oil for every 928.
If that is the oil you like to use and it works for you then its your suggested oil, right?
IMO I like Mobil 1 15w/50 with an additive for DE's, but not for casual street usage, it takes too long to get up to temp on colder days here in MI where avg temps are 70's in the summer and find a 10w/40 weight works just fine in holding oil pressure at hot idle, there are too many variables (how loose is the engine, 16 or 32 valve, Auto or manual, etc).
Follow the owners manual and use the oil pressure gauge as a guide when engine is at a hot idle in traffic, if it is too low a pressure then you need a thicker weight
Sorry not trying to start another oil war, just saying one size doesn't fit all.
Dave
Put a drain pan under the plug. Have a second pan ready as the engine holds a lot of oil.
Undo the plug. Look for the sealing ring.
Swap the pans in the middle of draining (Or have a big pan.)
While it's dripping, remove and replace the oil filter.
Make sure the rubber seal on the filter isn't stuck to the block.
Tighten the oil filter per the instructions on the filter. Don't crank it too tight.
Replace the drain plug and (usually) use a new sealing ring.
Tighten to 20Nm. That's not terribly tight but the pan is an aluminum casting and you, Big Arms, can strip that thing like nothing
Fill with 7qts of oil. It'll take somewhere between 7.5 and 9 quarts.
Run the engine for a bit and let it rest. (Good time to fill the disposal jugs)
Check underneath for leaks.
Check the oil level and top up to the full line.
928 International, Vertex, Pelican, RockAuto
Undo the plug. Look for the sealing ring.
Swap the pans in the middle of draining (Or have a big pan.)
While it's dripping, remove and replace the oil filter.
Make sure the rubber seal on the filter isn't stuck to the block.
Tighten the oil filter per the instructions on the filter. Don't crank it too tight.
Replace the drain plug and (usually) use a new sealing ring.
Tighten to 20Nm. That's not terribly tight but the pan is an aluminum casting and you, Big Arms, can strip that thing like nothing
Fill with 7qts of oil. It'll take somewhere between 7.5 and 9 quarts.
Run the engine for a bit and let it rest. (Good time to fill the disposal jugs)
Check underneath for leaks.
Check the oil level and top up to the full line.
928 International, Vertex, Pelican, RockAuto
there is NO 928 that takes 7.5 quarts , unless you drain it with the driver side up in the air
it takes 9 quarts if drained the proper way. the proper way is on the lift, or lifting the driver side, drain, lower the car and wait for a few mins,and then lift back up and put the plug back in. pull oil filter and replace and fill it half way before reinstalling it. keeps the engine from going dry until the oil is pumped and has filled the filter.
#14
Nordschleife Master
have fun with your oil pressure light coming on at a DE with mobil 1. dont risk it, almost any oil but that (vavoline racinig 20-50 is bad too) safe bet is redline or kendal
glen, thats cave man oil change (really swapping oil catchers?) my god, just get the 10 quart from pep boys or your local auto store
there is NO 928 that takes 7.5 quarts , unless you drain it with the driver side up in the air
it takes 9 quarts if drained the proper way. the proper way is on the lift, or lifting the driver side, drain, lower the car and wait for a few mins,and then lift back up and put the plug back in. pull oil filter and replace and fill it half way before reinstalling it. keeps the engine from going dry until the oil is pumped and has filled the filter.
glen, thats cave man oil change (really swapping oil catchers?) my god, just get the 10 quart from pep boys or your local auto store
there is NO 928 that takes 7.5 quarts , unless you drain it with the driver side up in the air
it takes 9 quarts if drained the proper way. the proper way is on the lift, or lifting the driver side, drain, lower the car and wait for a few mins,and then lift back up and put the plug back in. pull oil filter and replace and fill it half way before reinstalling it. keeps the engine from going dry until the oil is pumped and has filled the filter.
#15
Rennlist Member
I learned this from my boat. The mechanic said you always want to fill up the oil filters with oil. You DO NOT want those diesels engine to be running without oil at any time. Makes perfect sense for our engines as well.