Early half shaft boots
03-04-2016, 09:13 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Early half shaft boots
Just a few hundred miles on my new axle boots, and I found the passenger side boots have come out of the clamps. This is an early axle and I glued them to the bracket with a rubber sealant. The drivers side has a later model half shaft. Boots looks great. Did I use the wrong glue?
I know, this is amateur hour, but I am an amateur.
Couldn't do it without Rennlist
I know, this is amateur hour, but I am an amateur.
Couldn't do it without Rennlist
03-04-2016, 10:22 PM
#2
Former Sponsor
As you probably noticed, the later boots have an extra internal ridge, which usually sits down inside a groove in the late model flange.
The early flanges have no such groove, so that extra internal ridge has no where to go.
I sit down and carefully grind away that extra ridge of rubber on every single boot I install on an early car. Although it is a bit tedious, it's the only way I know to accomplish the task.
The early flanges have no such groove, so that extra internal ridge has no where to go.
I sit down and carefully grind away that extra ridge of rubber on every single boot I install on an early car. Although it is a bit tedious, it's the only way I know to accomplish the task.
03-06-2016, 07:41 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
There is nothing more frustrating than going through the greasy mess to replace boots and find them pulled off in a matter of a few minutes during the install process
My 79 has one side that is old style bolt on both sides and the other axle is fixed on tire side and bolt on at the transmission.
There are basically two styles of flanges, deep groove designed to use the boot that has a pronounced single rib that helps hold the boot onto the flange and the smooth flange that uses the smoother inside lip boot.
Clamps are also an issue as they have to be narrow enough fit in the space and have a short enough clamp mechanism to fir between the bolts. Net is I ended up using a worm gear style clamp versus what came in the kit because the narrow bolt style clamps bottom out and don't provide enough clamping force.
I put this guide together the first time I went through multiple shipments of different boots kits trying to get the right configuration.
My 79 has one side that is old style bolt on both sides and the other axle is fixed on tire side and bolt on at the transmission.
There are basically two styles of flanges, deep groove designed to use the boot that has a pronounced single rib that helps hold the boot onto the flange and the smooth flange that uses the smoother inside lip boot.
Clamps are also an issue as they have to be narrow enough fit in the space and have a short enough clamp mechanism to fir between the bolts. Net is I ended up using a worm gear style clamp versus what came in the kit because the narrow bolt style clamps bottom out and don't provide enough clamping force.
I put this guide together the first time I went through multiple shipments of different boots kits trying to get the right configuration.
03-07-2016, 08:31 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good question. IIRC, the flanges were changes in '82, but I could be wrong. I have a later flange and it looks to match the early flange, other then the valley for the boot rib. Does anyone know if the smaller end of the boot will march the shaft, same diameter?
03-07-2016, 08:58 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is nothing more frustrating than going through the greasy mess to replace boots and find them pulled off in a matter of a few minutes during the install process
.
My 79 has one side that is old style bolt on both sides and the other axle is fixed on tire side and bolt on at the transmission.
There are basically two styles of flanges, deep groove designed to use the boot that has a pronounced single rib that helps hold the boot onto the flange and the smooth flange that uses the smoother inside lip boot.
Clamps are also an issue as they have to be narrow enough fit in the space and have a short enough clamp mechanism to fir between the bolts. Net is I ended up using a worm gear style clamp versus what came in the kit because the narrow bolt style clamps bottom out and don't provide enough clamping force.
I put this guide together the first time I went through multiple shipments of different boots kits trying to get the right configuration.
.
My 79 has one side that is old style bolt on both sides and the other axle is fixed on tire side and bolt on at the transmission.
There are basically two styles of flanges, deep groove designed to use the boot that has a pronounced single rib that helps hold the boot onto the flange and the smooth flange that uses the smoother inside lip boot.
Clamps are also an issue as they have to be narrow enough fit in the space and have a short enough clamp mechanism to fir between the bolts. Net is I ended up using a worm gear style clamp versus what came in the kit because the narrow bolt style clamps bottom out and don't provide enough clamping force.
I put this guide together the first time I went through multiple shipments of different boots kits trying to get the right configuration.
The clamp from the kit is the problem. It was as tight as it would go, and the boot came right out, without a hit of damage. The clamp slides on and off when completely tight. Amazing the joint manufacturer would sell such a poor product.
.
03-07-2016, 09:28 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
It does suck. Especially given that you will never get that boot back on the flange with the drive shaft in place which means it is coming out again - This just happened to me again as I had a ripped boot. Only saving grace was that I had the exhaust out to do the TT bearings so did not have to fight the exhaust coming out or back in.
As I said I went to a worm gear clamp that allows you to really get them tight.
As I said I went to a worm gear clamp that allows you to really get them tight.
Trending Topics
03-09-2016, 03:12 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
You can fit the later style flange to the early CV joint so you can fit the boot with the extra ridge. I did just that.
03-09-2016, 03:17 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Did the kit have clamps provided? On my last CV boot job, I found that those didn't go tight enough and the boots all came off. I relaced those with crimp-style clamps I had on-hand. Solved the problem.
. Thanks for the great and timely advice!
06-05-2016, 09:48 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Columbia, Missouri
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ducman, you are right on. I have a crimped clamp now. No need waste time with the screw clamps from the kit.
Thankfully I found a shop with the crimping tool. They put the clamps on for $10. A lot cheaper then the tool. Not many shops have the tool anymore.
Thankfully I found a shop with the crimping tool. They put the clamps on for $10. A lot cheaper then the tool.
Not many shops have the tool anymore.
06-05-2016, 10:02 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
My wrench advised me on fitting the clamps on the boots - drill small holes (~1/16-3/32") in the strip such that you can tighten them with the ends of needle nose pliers, even better circlip pliers (inside circlip type), then cinch up the end and lock it down flat. Do a trial fit to see where the holes should go first. Have had no issues with mine several years after doing the boots. AFAIK, anyway?
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k