Race Car Repairs after Mid-Ohio shunt
04-12-2016, 09:26 PM
#77
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Very nice work Carl. I am intrigued with the radiator. Couple of questions, would that perticular radiator be sufficient for street driving if someone wanted to build a streetable car with that type of setup?
Do you plan on any sort of front protection just in case of some tight bumper to bumper "rubbing" action?
Ed
Do you plan on any sort of front protection just in case of some tight bumper to bumper "rubbing" action?
Ed
04-13-2016, 10:33 AM
#78
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Thread Starter
We are using the AIM MXL2 Dash Logger. It has had so many great upgrades since I started selling them several years ago.
Now it has Wi-Fi, so the crew chief can pull all the data out of it from the toher side of the pit wall, no need to connect tot he car physically. Great data logging of each lap, each corner, downloadable track maps, many many alarm and alert set points, all customizable.
One cable goes from the CAN buss right to the Electromotive TecGT that's already in the car and that takes car of most things - tach, air/fuel, engine temp, etc. Done. Then you add other gauges (fuel level, oil pressure, and whatever else you want.
I don't have a real good pic of the dash with the engine running yet, but I have these from the install.
Now it has Wi-Fi, so the crew chief can pull all the data out of it from the toher side of the pit wall, no need to connect tot he car physically. Great data logging of each lap, each corner, downloadable track maps, many many alarm and alert set points, all customizable.
One cable goes from the CAN buss right to the Electromotive TecGT that's already in the car and that takes car of most things - tach, air/fuel, engine temp, etc. Done. Then you add other gauges (fuel level, oil pressure, and whatever else you want.
I don't have a real good pic of the dash with the engine running yet, but I have these from the install.
04-13-2016, 10:36 AM
#79
Developer
Thread Starter
In addition to the colored LED lights (blue, green, yellow, orange red) that you can set to fire at different alert levelss, you can make the whole dash go RED too if needs be. Like here: NO OIL PRESSURE!
04-13-2016, 11:07 AM
#80
Developer
Thread Starter
Very nice work Carl. I am intrigued with the radiator. Couple of questions, would that perticular radiator be sufficient for street driving if someone wanted to build a streetable car with that type of setup?
Do you plan on any sort of front protection just in case of some tight bumper to bumper "rubbing" action?
Do you plan on any sort of front protection just in case of some tight bumper to bumper "rubbing" action?
As to front protection, To build any sort of protective capsule or structural members around the rad is to add a LOT of weight, and prevent easy, rapid access to the crew for servicing the car. What we have is enough for some gentle body contact right now, the fiberglass shell is surprisingly strong in the nose.
Here is the excerpt from the GTS series GCR (General Competition Regulations)
2.2 / Modified "racing room" definition
In the NASA CCR, under section 25.4.2 "Punting," the rules define "racing room" as: "at least threequarters
of one car width." For racing between two or more GTS cars, "racing room" is hereby defined as:
"at least one car width plus 6 inches."
In the NASA CCR, under section 25.4.2 "Punting," the rules define "racing room" as: "at least threequarters
of one car width." For racing between two or more GTS cars, "racing room" is hereby defined as:
"at least one car width plus 6 inches."
Last edited by Carl Fausett; 04-13-2016 at 11:34 AM.
04-13-2016, 01:16 PM
#82
Rennlist Member
10-29-2016, 07:31 AM
#88
Drifting
Agree with those suggesting to replace rubber section only, which I've done on two cars and both bone dry in that area ever afterwards.
Dremel the the whole crimp and use good quality hose clamps instead at each end. Note the ID at the metal line differs from that at reservoir nipple where hose flares out. Last time I did this the neat solution to get good fit and accommodate 90 deg turn is to but a supply line hose and cut off one end! Now you have proper moulded hose for short run reservoir to line, and snug fit each end. Save yourself faffing with radiator.
Dremel the the whole crimp and use good quality hose clamps instead at each end. Note the ID at the metal line differs from that at reservoir nipple where hose flares out. Last time I did this the neat solution to get good fit and accommodate 90 deg turn is to but a supply line hose and cut off one end! Now you have proper moulded hose for short run reservoir to line, and snug fit each end. Save yourself faffing with radiator.