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As Malcolm says please confirm your engine is locked at 45 degrees before top dead centre.
with the crank in this position you can rotate the cams as many times as you wish. One revolution of the camshaft gets you back to where you were previously relative to the crank position. The alignment mark on the cam sprocket should be 3 teeth before the marks align then you string the belt.
We recommend making a mark on the tooth adjacent to the casing index notch prior to moving the cam sprocket.
The train should not be moved backwards once the belt is strung. As a matter of course I do not turn the cams backwards unless it is a small amount to pick up the spring movement.
When moving the cam only do so using the large hex washer not the cam ut
Hi. My timing belt if off and I am removing my cam gears and recoating them...but this is not the source of the question.
I rotated the right cam and it jumped clockwise about 1/8 turn. So, not wanting to go backwards (and not thinking about it), I turned the timing gear all the way around (i.e. another 7/8 turn clockwise) to re-align the marks I made on the cam gear housing with the gear. Now, I'm thinking that perhaps I created an issue with valves being mis-aligned (?) since turned it clock-wise a full turn?!?!
Is that OK or do I go counter-clockwise 1 full turn to the original location before it jumped. Or, do I need to rotate it clockwise more to re-align things?
Please help this newbie
Ken
the cams be rotated any direction.. the direction concern is only when the belt is strung.. (causes incorrect forces the tensioner roller)
so, if the belt is off, there is no problem moving the cams a few degrees , either way. but if the crank is not set at 45degrees btdc, then you can only move them a 4-5 teeth in any direction. you cant go 360 degrees or you will have valve to piston contact. (possibly. because when not running the hydraulic lifters are not fully pumped up)
Hey guys, trying to finish up my TB/WP project. Been busy and haven't had all the time to finish but I'm stuck at the cam gear adjustment portion. I've got my took from Porken for cam gears. But I keep adjusting it to get a perfect 0* on both banks and it's always off by 1* when the othe is at 0*.
Can't seem to get both at 0*. Any suggestions?
I'll attach pics to it so maybe someone can see what process I'm stuck on.
It seems odd to me that I need to squeeze both cam gears to get to zero but with the little slack belt has it would go back to the setting. Can someone fill me in why it's a bit off and if it would even get to 0* on both ends? Thanks.
General consensus is to set at -2 Right side and 0 left side.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Is the -2/0 still true if he's using the PKT? I thought the 2 degrees retard was due to the engine being cold and the expected impact of it warming up...doesn't the PKT counteract the change in tension? Or not...
The manual for the PKT recommends 0*-0*. But I can't get it there. And now I'm told 0*-(-2*) and now it's confusing even more.
Can some please tell us an answer and the reason why this is wrong or right?
RVII
32V’r
Each hole is one degree, going in a zigzag pattern. The center, raised hole is zero. Left and down from the zero hole is one degree advance.
When looking at installed tool, CCW of zero hole is advance, CW is retard. A good basic setting is:
Left: 0°
Right: 1-2° retard
The retard on the right side is to compensate for engine expansion when warm.
May I politely suggest we talk about 1/4 and 5/8 or port side and starboard side rather than "right and left" -urrrgh!
The 32VR is quite precise as to what is recommended and on a cold motor there is a two degree difference between set points on each bank. There is also another possible correction for whether it is a new belt or a "stretched" belt.
Ken articulates this reasonably well but to be fair, it is a little bit confusing. My approach is to use the two degree difference between banks and then check again after running the belt in [1000miles] and then make an adjustment if needed whilst tightening the cam belt a tad due to the initial stretch.
I can more or less guarantee you will not notice any difference in performance given the range of adjustment we are talking about here.
Not a good day at all guys. Put car back together, long story short. Started car and the transmission radiator started leaking when I turned key. Sprayed my garage door and front end of car and then radiator fluid started leaking from under water pump area.....do you know how much I wanted to cry?
Transmission fluid........
The leak, which it never had before and I never damaged at all....odd.
01-10-2016, 11:01 AM
George Layton March 2014
