mark kibort

why do you want to spin the cams a full 360 degrees? Just curious.
all you need to do is put the bolt back in the cam and tighten
i usually move the cam pulley by the 30mil hex with a very large vice grip there is not much force involved to move it forward the 3 teeth you are off now.
i usually dont move the pulleys much , so i dont need to do the job at 45 degrees TDC. but it does buy you the saftety if you do.

what is the "bumpstick" anyway?

Ricardo Vega

I'm not wanting to rotate 360 at all, I'm asking how to safely rotate back to its original position. Because when I do it bounces back to the position in that pic. It's at the 2 o'clock position and started at about the 11:30 position. I rotate back but bounced back to me with spring like resistance. I'm not sure what the bump stick is yet.

RVII

FredR

The bump stick is a tool Ken developed to compliment the 32VR kit. Basically it is a wrench that fits over the big hex washer nice and snug with a good lever arm so that you can easily manipulate the cams without the wrench slipping off. Turning the cams 360 [crank at 45 BTDC] with this thing is a walk in the park

The kit also has a very neat adapter that holds everything together and basically helps tame the cam jump issue.

I also found it very useful to help press the brake dampers into the caliper pistons but that is a completely different matter.

Rgds

Fred

the flyin' scotsman

To complement what Fred stated and for your reading pleasure:

http://liftbars.com/

Dave H.

it's bouncing back because you don't have the belt on it to hold it in place.

mark kibort

its bouncing back becasue you are not holding the nut with a vice grip or wrench. better to use a vice grip for control. its spring loaded do to the position of the cams on the valve springs.

you dont need a bump stick to do this effectively. just hold that big hex washer , not the nut , and move the cam pully into position . one person can do it, but with two, its much easier. do the driver side first . put the belt on so that the tension of the belt allows for the pullly to match up to the timing mark. then wrap the belt under the water pump and over the other side pulley. (moving the cam pulley around a bit to fit the belt teeth on.... check marks, done!

Bertrand Daoust

The big key is the bump stick.
The pic is from Ken's website.

mark kibort

vice grip works better , especially if you are alone... you can strap it down in position and work on the other side. the bump stick is nice for leverage , but it can still fall off.

FredR

Mark,

It can fall off but generally it just stays there because it is a nice fit over the hex washer and has plenty of leverage.

Trust me- if you tried this you would not want to use anything else afterwards. With this kit and the 32VR you can adjust the cams start to finish is less than an hour and 55 minutes of that is taking things off and putting them back again.

Rgds

Fred

mark kibort

yeah, for adjustment, definitely seems like the easy ticket. i was talking for belt installation. but, in thinkng about it. how does it work with the belt on the cams? when the belt is strung, you loosen things and then rotate the engine to move the pulley while the cams stay in place. its been a while , so i forgot how we adjust them with the porken tool.. we did the 6 liter a while ago. the adjustment only took about an hour. no lever tool

FredR

Mark,

With the 32VR kit and bumpstick combo you set the crank to either 45 BTDC or TDC on No1. The indicator holder has four positions for the two positions of the crank and the two different strokes [cylinders 1 or 6] You simply adjust the cam position until the needle holder indicates the degree of advance or retard you want to set and then nip the cam wheel back up.

When I did my timing belt/WP job, as I remember I used the bumpstick on the hex nut to keep tension on the 5/8 exhaust cam while I manipulated the belt over the 1/4 cam - went on first time- no drama. Would have been easier if I had had someone to hold the bumpstick.

Rgds

Fred

Ricardo Vega

Thanks for everyone commenting on this. I'll keep you guys posted on progress once I get PK32'r tool kits.
RVII

Ricardo Vega

Hey guys, so I've made a bit of progress. Keep in mind I'm taking my time doing this project, but I've managed to put the pump, and belt back on with the markings I made on cam gears all aligning! It's almost perfect but I won't know till I get the cam gear tool tomorrow.
But that's what I was going to ask before I move forward. I've got the PKT bracket on block with the lever and pulley on but don't have have piston on yet. So my question is at this point can I install piston and pull the pin? Or just install piston and not pull pin? Since I don't have the cam gear tool yet does it matter?
The only reason I'm asking is so that I can go on ahead and work on it for the next few hours I have now and finish putting on plastic cover that covers WP and progress to putting on alternator, harmonic balancer, pulleys and other little things.

Ricardo Vega

the flyin' scotsman

If your cam marks are all aligned with the position of the crank then install the remaining Porken components, release the pin, turn the engine CW over twice to TDC #1 and check the alignment, all good?
spin the engine twice again then recheck the marks