mskar

I caught an INCREDIBLY lucky break today and thought I'd share my methods and mistakes with everyone. As I've stated on my intro to the forum thread, I have a fairly low mileage 1988 S4, less that 60k on her, completely neglected, original timing belt. I got the TB out today, crackled badly on the outside, teeth intact, original, faded, PORSCHE logo still barely visible on the belt. Yay. Did the dance.

Was nervous about these tiny water pump bolts Ive heard so much about. I sprayed PB liberally this morning after pulling the tensioner but before starting on the wiring harness disconnects, giving the PB about an hour maybe. Starting randomly (is there a preferred order?) I took a 3/8 extension and 3lb hammer and gave each bolt head about a dozen medium-taps, then put a 6pt 10mm socket on each and gave the surrounding water pump a dozen or so medium taps.

Went around each bolt and gave each a quick break attempt with a short handled 3/8" socket, about half broke loose. Resprayed, retapped the bolt heads and surrounds again and all but two loosed up. I've got this! Built a heat shield out of a tuna can lid, zip tied everything flammable well out of the way, DUG MY FIRE EXTINGUISHER, torched the bolts for a couple of minutes each (until I could smell blackened tuna), let them cool, then torched the block under each for a couple of minutes. One more broke free, woohoo, this is easy!

Tried breaking the last one both ways tighten, loosen. Bolt openly mocking me at this point. Heard an impact driver might be helpful so fetched the Dewalt from the house. Watching the bolt head like a hawk, I hit the bolt with a < 1 sec hit. Not turning, probably safe, all those quick reverse torques just must be the ticket. Hit it repeatedly with 1-3 seconds. Broke the bolt at the head. F*&*%!! Okay, just one, two hours max in the penalty box.

Coaxed the WP off and set to work on the stud sticking out of the block like a middle finger. Torch, cool, PB, hammer hammer, lather, rinse, repeat, with no attempts to actually back it out. Went to spare parts bin, pulled two nuts of the appropriate size figuring I'd have more options with a faux head on the bolt than by vice gripping the crap out of it. Start winding the nut on (by hand) and it gets stuck, I'll need to file the top of the stud down I guess but now the nut is stuck less than 1 full thread on, dammit.

Trying to work the nut back off the damaged stud (by hand) the stud gives up and unscrews from the block (did I mention by hand). Less than 10 minutes in the penalty box. Here's to stupid, beautiful luck!!!

Randy V

Good for you.

Paragraphs are your friend.

mskar

Yeah, something happened to my nice formatting somewhere between accidentally posting this in someone else's thread, cutting, pasting and editing in the wee hours. Thanks and will edit once again.

mark kibort

thats funny... in those cases. the fat vice grip on the stud will remove it no problem, but funny, that it just was hand tight after its head came off. usually that the case... the head is near welded over time and tension to the surface... the head comes off and the stud just freely comes out.

Nice work

mskar

MUST have been it!

Will be hunting down new bolts for the wp installation tomorrow. Hopefully someone has the correct lengths in town.

MainePorsche

Fastenal, if nearby is a good place for quality, specialized hardware.

Gretch

When I installed the Murph supercharger on Gretch that exact thing happened to me. You replace one of the water pump bolts with a longer one for the SC bracket. The one I had to remove shearedr at the head. I didn't pull the water pump, but drilled the shaft of the bolt in situ and used an easy out, spun it out by hand.

UKKid35

We all like happy endings - but the one thing I would have done differently is avoid the ratchet! Always use a T-bar in that situation, especially with seized brake bleed nipples, rarely a second chance when one of them shears.

mskar

We do, and I would not have immediately thought to check them. Would imagine they're closed on Sunday but if no luck at the parts stores I'll check them tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

mskar

Ok, checked my handy forum abbreviations list, to no avail, SC = ?

mskar

Is this because you can't torque it but so hard with a t-handle? Have to admit, it is a tool I've never owned.

Wisconsin Joe

Supercharger.

More because you are applying the torque from both sides. You will be far less likely to apply the force from an angle or unevenly.

This principle applies to wheel lugs too. After snapping two studs on a Chev pickup I used to have (wheels had been on a long time, through several Wisconsin winters), it was suggested I use a "speed bar" - the 'cross wrench' thing.

The force is applied evenly from both sides, and almost perfectly perpendicular, unlike the 45 degree "lug wrench/jack handle" that most cars used to have.

I've had a speedbar in every car I've owned since.

UKKid35

Sadly I often forget my own advice - on the underside of my other car there are about a dozen bolts holding the cross braced steel exhaust guard(?). The first time I worked under the car I removed most of the partially seized bolts with an electric torque wrench, but since the rear of the car was too low to get the electric tool in position I used a hand wrench and snapped two bolts instantly - Doh!

dr bob

mscar--

My local Ace hardware store has a surprisingly good selection of metric hardware. From simple stuff like the WP bolts to harder/tougher bolts for suspension and the like. And they are open on Sundays.

upstate bob

I liked your measured approach to this task. the hammering on the bolt heads was a good idea. the PB blaster likely never reached the sticky area.