Engine rebuild cost?

My main reason on the comment to the OP was that he thinks 1k is too much for an Engine R & I, and I do not. Also unrealistic to think someone can find a Factory New 5.0 short block for 300 bucks!
SS
Why not swap an S4 motor in then? I have seen it done. However if your motor is running fine, don't worry!
SS
Not sure how they did the job for that amount of money, even back 10 years ago, but there is an easy way to find out.
Bolt it in!

My main reason on the comment to the OP was that he thinks 1k is too much for an Engine R & I, and I do not. Also unrealistic to think someone can find a Factory New 5.0 short block for 300 bucks!
Without a doubt, someone, somewhere will take it in and out for $1000 and smile.
I could do that, even here in Southern California, if I totally ignored dirt, worn pieces, motor mounts, and just removed the engine and stuffed it back in with my eyes closed. I just don't want to....and more specifically, would not, even if someone wanted me to.
My rule of thumb, for the tiny world that I work in (Porsches my entire life) is:
"Once you touch it, your name is associated with it, forever. No one will ever remember telling you to cut this or that corner, when it breaks. If the owner can't afford for you to do the absolute best work you can do, it is far better to pass on the job than compromise your own standards....and my standards are pretty damn high."
And I'd buy every single new factory 5.0 short block anyone can supply me with for $300...that's as close to stealing something as I want to get!
Last edited by GregBBRD; Nov 9, 2015 at 10:23 PM.
With replacement of all parts that I'd like to the parts cost is $2600. There's a few things in there that are above a plain rebuild.
The parts for a minimal rebuild of piston rings, main and rod bearings and all coolant hoses is $1400.
There's another $2900 in parts in the plan for an I-J scraper kit, a clutch rebuild, fuel and oil lines, and other parts to make it race-worthy. (I'm part-way into all this, btw)
Anyways... Work with $100/hr as it's close to costs and is easy to multiply. Figure 10 hours for removal/replacement, 10 hours for disassembly and cleaning and 5 hours for careful reassembly. That's $2500 in labor.
And then there's head work at another $600. Plus crank true and polish at $200.
So... A basic rebuild with head and crank work is near $4000 at retail not counting mark-up on parts and anything additional that needs to be replaced. If I was having the work done, I'd budget $5000 with another $1000 in reserve.
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SS
Having raced sports cars for 25 or so years if I learned anything it was not go cheap on parts or skill
Seat time was the reason we trailered all those miles to an event, not to arrive and wrench on a car.
The car in question is an investment grade 928. Paying Greg Brown to build the motor correctly at whatever it cost to get it right, to me is money in the bank.
At the end of the day while I am motoring across some lonely highway, I am not going to start grinding my teeth wondering if this thing is screwed together correctly. I am not going to be thinking about those AutoZone bearings that I got deal on. I have the history of this car, every receipt from day 1 including a few moving violations. Soon after the motor went soft I re- read all the documentation and I think I have traced it back to a mechanic ignoring the issues because he didn't have the skill set to identify the problem.
The goal now is to get it finished for Monterey Car Week. See you there
My hat is off, to you!




