davek9

Guess your right Greg, I've been know to take months when non stock items like pro-vents and headers are involved.

My main reason on the comment to the OP was that he thinks 1k is too much for an Engine R & I, and I do not. Also unrealistic to think someone can find a Factory New 5.0 short block for 300 bucks!

Mongo

Why not swap an S4 motor in then? I have seen it done. However if your motor is running fine, don't worry!

kmascotto

1) So to remove and install an engine is about 10 to 18 hrs. average is approx 15 hrs.

How many hrs to complete a top end rebuild?

RennPartsDirect

It's percolating coolant between the block and the head on the passenger side. Very small but enough to cause coolant to seep out and pool up onto the center of the engine so the head gaskets definitely need replacing. Plus all the rubber is aged and needs to be replaced so I wouldn't say it is running fine. It is strong but needs love. Something faster is kind of my main motivator...

GregBBRD

2004? Should be fine.

Not sure how they did the job for that amount of money, even back 10 years ago, but there is an easy way to find out.

Bolt it in!

GregBBRD

Labor rates and quality of work varies all over the country.

Without a doubt, someone, somewhere will take it in and out for $1000 and smile.

I could do that, even here in Southern California, if I totally ignored dirt, worn pieces, motor mounts, and just removed the engine and stuffed it back in with my eyes closed. I just don't want to....and more specifically, would not, even if someone wanted me to.

My rule of thumb, for the tiny world that I work in (Porsches my entire life) is:

"Once you touch it, your name is associated with it, forever. No one will ever remember telling you to cut this or that corner, when it breaks. If the owner can't afford for you to do the absolute best work you can do, it is far better to pass on the job than compromise your own standards....and my standards are pretty damn high."

And I'd buy every single new factory 5.0 short block anyone can supply me with for $300...that's as close to stealing something as I want to get!

EMan 928

[QUOTE=davek9;12743753]Guess your right Greg, I've been know to take months when non stock items like pro-vents and headers are involved.

Just months?

GlenL

I've got a spreadsheet where I've costed out an engine rebuild on my 1980 Euro S. I'm planning to make it a race engine.

With replacement of all parts that I'd like to the parts cost is $2600. There's a few things in there that are above a plain rebuild.

The parts for a minimal rebuild of piston rings, main and rod bearings and all coolant hoses is $1400.

There's another $2900 in parts in the plan for an I-J scraper kit, a clutch rebuild, fuel and oil lines, and other parts to make it race-worthy. (I'm part-way into all this, btw)

Anyways... Work with $100/hr as it's close to costs and is easy to multiply. Figure 10 hours for removal/replacement, 10 hours for disassembly and cleaning and 5 hours for careful reassembly. That's $2500 in labor.

And then there's head work at another $600. Plus crank true and polish at $200.

So... A basic rebuild with head and crank work is near $4000 at retail not counting mark-up on parts and anything additional that needs to be replaced. If I was having the work done, I'd budget $5000 with another $1000 in reserve.

mark kibort

so you have a '82 with a nice body and you want to fix the engine? you also found a almost new 4 valve motor from an 86 or a new car all together? if its the new 86 motor and its a car too, just fix up that car and dump the 82. if you just have a motor, and you want to put it into the 82, good luck with that. as there are 3 threads going now about this. nothing is compatable. (wiring , electroncs wise) so, if its the later, again, the answer use the short block and sell the heads and cams...

vanster

This has been a very interesting thread as the responses have been widely varied.

Having raced sports cars for 25 or so years if I learned anything it was not go cheap on parts or skill
Seat time was the reason we trailered all those miles to an event, not to arrive and wrench on a car.

The car in question is an investment grade 928. Paying Greg Brown to build the motor correctly at whatever it cost to get it right, to me is money in the bank.
At the end of the day while I am motoring across some lonely highway, I am not going to start grinding my teeth wondering if this thing is screwed together correctly. I am not going to be thinking about those AutoZone bearings that I got deal on. I have the history of this car, every receipt from day 1 including a few moving violations. Soon after the motor went soft I re- read all the documentation and I think I have traced it back to a mechanic ignoring the issues because he didn't have the skill set to identify the problem.

The goal now is to get it finished for Monterey Car Week. See you there

GregBBRD

I'm embarrassed to say that even though I've done hundreds of these engines, I can't come even close to how fast you are. I mentally allow 40 hours to diassemble, clean, inspect, and re-assemble a two valve engine....and frankly, I've never accomplished the task in that amount of time.

My hat is off, to you!

RennPartsDirect

The '86 has a clean title but super rough on the outside and the interior needs love, as most cars do that have sat outside for a long time. I bought it because of the history on the engine and because it was a 5 speed. For some reason I can't stop buying these cars if I come across a cheap 5 speed...