Engine rebuild cost?
11-09-2015, 12:38 AM
#2
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
Posts: 485
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
What kind of a rebuild are you looking at?
Are you cleaning up what you have or are you adding Greg's new crank and associated goodies?
Are you working the wrenches or are you hiring someone.
If you do the work yourself, stay stock and don't require machining, it really isn't a lot of money, but raises the question why are you pulling the engine. Once you have to machine and or buy rotating pieces the price rises quickly.
So on the low end 1 G, on the high end, using Greg's bits 15.
Are you cleaning up what you have or are you adding Greg's new crank and associated goodies?
Are you working the wrenches or are you hiring someone.
If you do the work yourself, stay stock and don't require machining, it really isn't a lot of money, but raises the question why are you pulling the engine. Once you have to machine and or buy rotating pieces the price rises quickly.
So on the low end 1 G, on the high end, using Greg's bits 15.
11-09-2015, 11:09 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Most of the time the Crank does not need to be removed, if you are just doing the Rod bearings and all the rubber seals & gaskets. The Big $ will be in the heads, and if this is on an 85/86 replacing the Cam chain tensioners w/ the newer S4 style so that you can change the plastic shoes.
11-09-2015, 11:35 AM
#4
Former Vendor
11-09-2015, 11:51 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I just trying to put a number in my brain. $10k maybe if it's done right with all the correct bits?
More?
My theory has always been, if you are in it, do it right, use the best parts and knowledge. Money comes and goes but the time does spent is a one way street.
More?
My theory has always been, if you are in it, do it right, use the best parts and knowledge. Money comes and goes but the time does spent is a one way street.
11-09-2015, 12:37 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
I think it needs to be broken down in separate columns:
1) labour
&
2) parts
1) how many hours to remove & install the motor?
1-A) How many hours to just to do the top end rebuild?
1-B) How many hours to tear down and rebuild the motor?
2) parts needed??
1) labour
&
2) parts
1) how many hours to remove & install the motor?
1-A) How many hours to just to do the top end rebuild?
1-B) How many hours to tear down and rebuild the motor?
2) parts needed??
Trending Topics
11-09-2015, 01:05 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Ya need to be more focused on how you're going to use the car, the condition of the engine and what you're willing to spend. Then people can give actionable feedback.
11-09-2015, 01:13 PM
#10
Former Vendor
Best answer.....totally depends on what year and what is needed.
Early cars.....by the time you replace motor mounts, all the hoses, update the cam gears, weld up the heads, replace the head studs, etc, etc, pretty easy to spend 12-15K.
'85/'86 cars are especially problematic and require a certain amount of "lucky used parts sourcing" because of those terrible valve cover bolts and early chain tensioner pieces. (Finding the late '86 valve cover hardware is tough and sometimes the original terrible design hardware must be retained. Finding the correct oil lines to "update" to the later tensioner can be impossible.) These engines are probably more realistic at 15K, given the same needs as above.
Note that these prices are assuming that the bores and pistons are in good condition and only need new rings. If the bores are damaged and you want to retain the original engine block, the price goes up....considerably.
And BTW....a "rebuild" is just a "valve job", if the pistons and main bearings are not addressed....completely different jobs with different parts and labor required.
If you want to add displacement (more torque and horsepower) some of the pieces do "overlap"...especially if the bores are worn out or damaged. However, another 15K is easily spent.
One other comment that needs to be added: There's a huge difference in buying a gasket set and taking apart an engine in your garage, cleaning the parts, and re-assembling the engine, versus actually "rebuilding" an engine. When I put an engine back in that has been "rebuilt" or has just had a "valve job, I expect it to not need any repairs (other than belts and service items) for another 100,000 miles. I expect to be able to turn the key and have the engine run to any destination...anytime. There's no point in doing this kind of work and having a used water hose (or cheap aftermarket hose) leak a month later.
In short, I'm not screwing around....I'm using the best pieces I can find and replacing every tiny little thing that is brittle, worn, or broken. I'm using factory water pumps, factory hoses, factory motor mounts, factory accessory belts, etc, etc.)
Obviously, what I do isn't for everyone. However, it is what a huge amount of people do want.....call Mary at my shop and try to get an appointment for an engine rebuild, before next June....good luck!
.
Early cars.....by the time you replace motor mounts, all the hoses, update the cam gears, weld up the heads, replace the head studs, etc, etc, pretty easy to spend 12-15K.
'85/'86 cars are especially problematic and require a certain amount of "lucky used parts sourcing" because of those terrible valve cover bolts and early chain tensioner pieces. (Finding the late '86 valve cover hardware is tough and sometimes the original terrible design hardware must be retained. Finding the correct oil lines to "update" to the later tensioner can be impossible.) These engines are probably more realistic at 15K, given the same needs as above.
Note that these prices are assuming that the bores and pistons are in good condition and only need new rings. If the bores are damaged and you want to retain the original engine block, the price goes up....considerably.
And BTW....a "rebuild" is just a "valve job", if the pistons and main bearings are not addressed....completely different jobs with different parts and labor required.
If you want to add displacement (more torque and horsepower) some of the pieces do "overlap"...especially if the bores are worn out or damaged. However, another 15K is easily spent.
One other comment that needs to be added: There's a huge difference in buying a gasket set and taking apart an engine in your garage, cleaning the parts, and re-assembling the engine, versus actually "rebuilding" an engine. When I put an engine back in that has been "rebuilt" or has just had a "valve job, I expect it to not need any repairs (other than belts and service items) for another 100,000 miles. I expect to be able to turn the key and have the engine run to any destination...anytime. There's no point in doing this kind of work and having a used water hose (or cheap aftermarket hose) leak a month later.
In short, I'm not screwing around....I'm using the best pieces I can find and replacing every tiny little thing that is brittle, worn, or broken. I'm using factory water pumps, factory hoses, factory motor mounts, factory accessory belts, etc, etc.)
Obviously, what I do isn't for everyone. However, it is what a huge amount of people do want.....call Mary at my shop and try to get an appointment for an engine rebuild, before next June....good luck!
.
11-09-2015, 02:36 PM
#11
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
I assume that if the OP is considering a bottom end rebuild, he will need to get prices on the special honing process involved for alusil blocks.
11-09-2015, 03:08 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
The best price I have been quoted for R and I of the motor is $1000. Personally, I don't think it is worth that, and do it myself. After that it totally depends on what needs doing and what you can find for parts. Last time I was looking at doing one I found a factory new block with pistons and rings on ebay for $300. That was a big help as rings are pricey and I clearly needed them. Still needed main and rod bearings, heads done, and some gaskets. I think in the end I came in under $1.5K with: fresh block, pistons, rings, bearings, valve guides, gaskets (only buying the ones I actually needed, not the kit), porkensioner and cam gear upgrade. Then I ran into a problem because that car sat waiting while I scavaged for the best prices on all the parts and had not drained the fuel system so I had bad fuel in my tank and the whole system gummed up.
So...it can be done on the cheap. But keep in mind that I am the anti-Greg (although also a fan boy of his) I believe that if it is worth doing it is worth doing twice and keep my AAA+ membership paid up. I try to avoid the 'while we're in there' trap and like to solve one problem at a time. Sometimes this has worked out well for me and other times not so much. In the case of my '79 it worked pretty well except for the fuel system problems I brought on myself. In the case of my S4 I will be closing up the intake again this week after doing the intake refresh 5 or 6 times. Finally I have done pretty much everything in Dwayne's tutorial and expect it to be running properly, but if I had done it all the first time I could have been driving it all these years. But at least I am good at S4 intake work now.
So...it can be done on the cheap. But keep in mind that I am the anti-Greg (although also a fan boy of his) I believe that if it is worth doing it is worth doing twice and keep my AAA+ membership paid up. I try to avoid the 'while we're in there' trap and like to solve one problem at a time. Sometimes this has worked out well for me and other times not so much. In the case of my '79 it worked pretty well except for the fuel system problems I brought on myself. In the case of my S4 I will be closing up the intake again this week after doing the intake refresh 5 or 6 times. Finally I have done pretty much everything in Dwayne's tutorial and expect it to be running properly, but if I had done it all the first time I could have been driving it all these years. But at least I am good at S4 intake work now.
11-09-2015, 03:19 PM
#13
Former Vendor
'85/'86 cars are especially problematic and require a certain amount of "lucky used parts sourcing" because of those terrible valve cover bolts and early chain tensioner pieces. (Finding the late '86 valve cover hardware is tough and sometimes the original terrible design hardware must be retained. Finding the correct oil lines to "update" to the later tensioner can be impossible.) These engines are probably more realistic at 15K, given the same needs as above.
SS
11-09-2015, 03:35 PM
#15
Former Vendor
$1k for engine R&I is about right w/o hacking it out, usually take about 4 hrs each way at least.
Also my numbers are parts only no Crank work and w/ exception of machine shopping the Heads.
Highly think that $300 Factory new block w/ piston and rings is for real, do you? If so I'll take four right now!
Also my numbers are parts only no Crank work and w/ exception of machine shopping the Heads.
Highly think that $300 Factory new block w/ piston and rings is for real, do you? If so I'll take four right now!
Last edited by GregBBRD; 11-09-2015 at 04:03 PM.