What are most of you converting for better BRAKING? Bigger Brake systems
#16
Rennlist Member
i wouldn't go so far as to say expert.. Just relevant experience.
#17
Rennlist Member
Caliper bolt spacing is different between 928 and 996, in order to make an adapter that's not dangerous you need to go to a huge rotor (380mm). No market for that for 928s. Not sure about spacing on 997 or other modern calipers. IIRC Cayenne rotors will fit but am not sure what calipers they work with.
r.
r.
why not round spacers and the stock S4 or GTS calipers? it looks pretty clear that you can go to 355mm with either. (or at least to 330mm with the S4 with some grinding , and no grinding with the C2 turbo or GTs calipers)
**using 3500lb car loosing 500lbs to 3000lb race car, and saying it will perform with at least a 4-5mph greater speed down the main straight most all tracks with a slow end-of-straight turn entrance, where the KE demands will be the greatest.
i dont know what the GTS calipers are capable of handling as far as rotor size, but im sure its the same or greater than the C2turbo caliper that both use the same rotor.( offset too)
#18
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I may have to just try a few things and report as I have time... may take several months or years...
Thanks again,
#19
Rennlist Member
I run 993 C2 calipers in my 1981. The fronts are about the same as the S4 brakes, but with the updated seal design.
The rears however are much larger, I think about 30% larger than the rears on an S4 or somewhere about. It's a cheap, bolt on upgrade for S4+ 928s as you can get a used set of rears for about $200 on ebay.
The car stops extremely well. However, with the 33 bar bias valves the car has stock the rears heat up much more than the fronts do. Both are wearing about the same though.
They fill the 18's I have much better than the single piston OB calipers I had. Plus they have the updated smoother look that the S4 calipers lack.
I would look at them first as the GTS calipers aren't cheap like they used to be.
The rears however are much larger, I think about 30% larger than the rears on an S4 or somewhere about. It's a cheap, bolt on upgrade for S4+ 928s as you can get a used set of rears for about $200 on ebay.
The car stops extremely well. However, with the 33 bar bias valves the car has stock the rears heat up much more than the fronts do. Both are wearing about the same though.
They fill the 18's I have much better than the single piston OB calipers I had. Plus they have the updated smoother look that the S4 calipers lack.
I would look at them first as the GTS calipers aren't cheap like they used to be.
#20
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
On my '79 I run GTS Big blacks on my fronts and the S4/GTS rears. Fronts use a slotted 2-piece Girodisc rotor from a 993TT and calipers are mounted using the adapter kit from 928MS. Rears use a slotted rotor from Powerslot with the black e-coating.
#22
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
But this is a street car, not a track car. So far I've not experienced any type of front wheel lockup under braking, and that includes some driving in wet conditions. From a safety perspective I'd want the fronts to lock-up before the rears anyway to avoid an end-swapping scenario in a corner.
I'll just have to remain aware of your experience and will let you know if I encounter a lock-up of any sort under threshold braking.
#23
Nordschleife Master
I track my car pretty hard. Yes, "flat out." I don't see a pull for bigger rotors or multi-piston calipers as I get all the stopping force the tires can handle by upgrading to more aggressive pads.
The earliest cars that don't have the "S" calipers in front do need help there. Otherwise we're talking about "feel" and "modulation" and it's a whole pile of money to upgrade the brakes when I'd rather spend the money on, say, tires.
The earliest cars that don't have the "S" calipers in front do need help there. Otherwise we're talking about "feel" and "modulation" and it's a whole pile of money to upgrade the brakes when I'd rather spend the money on, say, tires.
#24
Pro
Arrhh gee guys - unless you're racing, or into very competitive track day performance - pls tell us how your stock brakes are leaving you short of braking performance?
:-)
:-)
#25
Nordschleife Master
I might be convinced to do this as my brake rotors look tiny inside wide-open 18" wheels.
#26
What are you looking to improve, stopping distance or fade resistance? The best/cheapest way to reduce stopping distance is to get better tires. Tires are always the limiting factor. Lowering the ride height and installing stiffer springs/shocks reduces weight transfer under braking and improves stopping distance.
The cheapest way to increase fade resistance is with higher temp pads. For a street/track car a dedicated set of track pads avoids the trade-offs of using noisy high temp pads on the street or quiet lower temp pads on the track.
Once you start out driving the best tires and pads then consider upgrading to bigger calipers/rotors.
The cheapest way to increase fade resistance is with higher temp pads. For a street/track car a dedicated set of track pads avoids the trade-offs of using noisy high temp pads on the street or quiet lower temp pads on the track.
Once you start out driving the best tires and pads then consider upgrading to bigger calipers/rotors.
#27
Here are a few pics of mine which I posted previously in other threads on the subject. It was a very economical upgrade(less than $700); one that even a plebe like me could do; I did notice a difference on track & I'm very happy with it. I get a lot of comments and questions as they are noticed quite often.
#28
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Pete, wow, great job, those look great! Any issues with braking, how do they perform?
#29
Rennlist Member
I track my car pretty hard. Yes, "flat out." I don't see a pull for bigger rotors or multi-piston calipers as I get all the stopping force the tires can handle by upgrading to more aggressive pads.
The earliest cars that don't have the "S" calipers in front do need help there. Otherwise we're talking about "feel" and "modulation" and it's a whole pile of money to upgrade the brakes when I'd rather spend the money on, say, tires.
The earliest cars that don't have the "S" calipers in front do need help there. Otherwise we're talking about "feel" and "modulation" and it's a whole pile of money to upgrade the brakes when I'd rather spend the money on, say, tires.
What are you looking to improve, stopping distance or fade resistance? The best/cheapest way to reduce stopping distance is to get better tires. Tires are always the limiting factor. Lowering the ride height and installing stiffer springs/shocks reduces weight transfer under braking and improves stopping distance.
The cheapest way to increase fade resistance is with higher temp pads. For a street/track car a dedicated set of track pads avoids the trade-offs of using noisy high temp pads on the street or quiet lower temp pads on the track.
Once you start out driving the best tires and pads then consider upgrading to bigger calipers/rotors.
The cheapest way to increase fade resistance is with higher temp pads. For a street/track car a dedicated set of track pads avoids the trade-offs of using noisy high temp pads on the street or quiet lower temp pads on the track.
Once you start out driving the best tires and pads then consider upgrading to bigger calipers/rotors.
tires are what is is all about, or repeated slow downs at the track, where the greater thermal mass helps.