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Not a 928 garage yet, but it's in the works...should be about 8 months or so
Double bay is a bit deeper for more storage, ceilings in the last two bays will be 12 feet tall (garage door tracks will be run right up against the ceiling) to allow for a 4 post lift in the last bay. The interior will be finished and painted (epoxy coated floor), hot/cold tap in there, 240 power for future compressor, and cat 6 cable so I can hook up an old TV and computer ....
No cabinets planned yet but that will come soon after we move in
Sounds and looks very nice. This actually dwarves my single 11 x 19 garage, by a mile !
Not a 928 garage yet, but it's in the works...should be about 8 months or so
Double bay is a bit deeper for more storage, ceilings in the last two bays will be 12 feet tall (garage door tracks will be run right up against the ceiling) to allow for a 4 post lift in the last bay. The interior will be finished and painted (epoxy coated floor), hot/cold tap in there, 240 power for future compressor, and cat 6 cable so I can hook up an old TV and computer ....
No cabinets planned yet but that will come soon after we move in
Tom--
Thoughts from a recent victim:
-- Plan to have cabinets installed before you move in if you can. Maybe before the floors go in if they are actually going to be epoxy, so the cabinet guys don't have any chance of damaging your epoxy. (BTDT) Having cabinets already as you move in means there is only one move, skipping the store -> unpack -> sort -> move everything for cabinet guys -> install cabs -> store effort for just Unpack -> store.
-- Local garage cabinet builders at Baldhead Cabinets are pretty great to work with. They've outfitted a few garages and workshops and will help you decide what works best for your situation and space.
-- Purge - purge - purge before you move. This is not garage-specific, BTW, but is garage-important.
-- I much prefer the porcelain tile option to the epoxy paint. It's tougher, and if you manage to damage a tile, it comes out and a new one gets set in its place. Order extra tile... I gave K's interior designer a free hand choosing tile and wall colors for the garage, and she did a pretty good job. Tiles include space delineator for logical walkways in a different shade, as that breaks up the stark all-one-color them that I probably would have done if left to my own devices. Walls are the same color and style as the large living-room spaces inside the house, following Bob's idea that this will be my 'living room'.
-- Plan - plan - plan your garage storage in advance, so that stuff that exits the old garage is already labeled for exactly where it will go in the new garage. I partially failed on this, foolishly thinking that I'd just duplicate the storage I had in the previous garage.
I'll end up with more shop storage than the old garage, but I let K configure the non-shop side storage and she came up way short. Even though stuff was shown on plans, she didn't consider that you can't (legally) put anything under or in front of a service or circuit breaker box on the wall, and you can't block in the furnace and utility/water space with floor-to-ceiling storage cabinets. Or that there's a stanchion protecting those utilitiy items from a runaway car in the garage. Bottom line is that we had to rethink a lot to make sure there was enough space for gardening and her other hobby stuff.
If you aren't already looking at GarageJournal.com, this is a good time to start. Plenty of knowledge to absorb there, along with examples of some pretty interesting garage spaces. Everything from museum-quality display spaces to real working garages.
You already know about installing plenty of electrical outlets in the walls. Consider air lines in the walls too, with taps above workbench height and also below; I'm much more comfortable with an air hose reel built into a cabinet than I am with hoses and reels dangling from the ceiling. I put stub-outs at a couple convenient places overhead so I can put an air station on a lift column, but so far haven't been quite willing to pull the trigger on the connection down from the ceiling.
I put a twist-lock outlet in the ceiling over each of the Max-Jax places, for a station on each column. I made double-duplex outlet boxes with a pigtail that connects to the ceiling outlets, sticky to the column with a couple serious magnets. I'll probably use them someday. In your bigger space and maybe with a 4-post lift, that's a convenient way to have handy power next to the second bay.
There's no such thing as too much lighting. Besides some pretty serious workspace lighting, we put LED 'can' lights over the walkways so no need to light up everything to stadium levels when you just need to walk through or get to a car. There are some cool multi-station motion switches that manage the walkway lighting, so they go on and off as needed without fumbling in the dark for a switch.
At least you won't have to change the cars to match the color theme of the garage
Nice work !
Thanks! I wish it were easier to find black painted cabinets that were actually affordable. I've been respraying everything I've bought so far which is a huge pain in the culo...
). They're light duty compared to some other units I've seen; I'd probably use something heavier-duty if I were to do it again.[/QUOTE]
a little late to this, but these work great & are lots cheaper. All you have to do is get the angle to suspend them with. A friend has a business selling & installing
these. They will hold a lot of weight, limited only by how well fastened to the ceiling they are.
Its pretty awesome. Not too hard to install and has a large amount of square footage. I store one of those bike trailers for the kids, a wheel barrow, seed spreader, the lawnmower in the winter and a bunch of other stuff. Menards happens to sell hooks and other accessories from this same manufacturer that allow me to hang my ladders and other things from the racking. With my Little Giant ladder stored horizontally below the rack it is still high enough for me (6' 4" tall) to walk underneath it without hitting my head on anything suspended from below...
Being a mechanic by trade...l've never used the garage for anything but storage. All repairs made to daily drivers were performed at work...where a hundred percent of my tools are.
Yes, things are a bit out of control...lol.
Hoping to make some improvements once the parts car is out. But, time will dictate.
I wrenched for dollars while I was in school way back when, but space (and worktime...) in my rented space was too precious to waste on my own rides. Sometimes I'd try to sneak in on a weekend to take care of my own toys, but customers would come by and see the doors open. My projects always seemed to take a back seat to customer cars. So I ended up with more tools for home, eventually another space for toys. Eventually I stopped the wrench-for-dollars part and consolidated everything in another rented space, then finally got out of that since there just weren't enough hours for work and shop play in the same week. I stuffed about 1500 sqft of toy space equipment and tools into a two-car home garage for a while, and arranged for extended storage for the collectible toys. The last two homes have had good shop space in the garages, but the non-928 toys still languish in storage space and out on display/loan.
I'm in discussions now for some CC storage space in Oregon, but the effort and expense of bringing cars and freight here are bigger than the cost savings on space rent. Plus the city believes that any rented shop space must be a business, so licensing and taxes play into the mix too.
Cabinets will wait just because the budget for them isn't there...same with going with tiles...epoxy will work for now
I'm looking into the electrical outlets now to make sure we have lots there..same with the lighting... I want a bright garage for sure.
Need to figure out whether or not I'm going to have a compressor inside...or put it outside with an enclosure...
Either way, it's going to be fun to see it all come together..
BTW....love the Garage Journal.. so much eye candy
Originally Posted by dr bob
Tom--
Thoughts from a recent victim:
-- Plan to have cabinets installed before you move in if you can. Maybe before the floors go in if they are actually going to be epoxy, so the cabinet guys don't have any chance of damaging your epoxy. (BTDT) Having cabinets already as you move in means there is only one move, skipping the store -> unpack -> sort -> move everything for cabinet guys -> install cabs -> store effort for just Unpack -> store.
-- Local garage cabinet builders at Baldhead Cabinets are pretty great to work with. They've outfitted a few garages and workshops and will help you decide what works best for your situation and space.
-- Purge - purge - purge before you move. This is not garage-specific, BTW, but is garage-important.
-- I much prefer the porcelain tile option to the epoxy paint. It's tougher, and if you manage to damage a tile, it comes out and a new one gets set in its place. Order extra tile... I gave K's interior designer a free hand choosing tile and wall colors for the garage, and she did a pretty good job. Tiles include space delineator for logical walkways in a different shade, as that breaks up the stark all-one-color them that I probably would have done if left to my own devices. Walls are the same color and style as the large living-room spaces inside the house, following Bob's idea that this will be my 'living room'.
-- Plan - plan - plan your garage storage in advance, so that stuff that exits the old garage is already labeled for exactly where it will go in the new garage. I partially failed on this, foolishly thinking that I'd just duplicate the storage I had in the previous garage.
I'll end up with more shop storage than the old garage, but I let K configure the non-shop side storage and she came up way short. Even though stuff was shown on plans, she didn't consider that you can't (legally) put anything under or in front of a service or circuit breaker box on the wall, and you can't block in the furnace and utility/water space with floor-to-ceiling storage cabinets. Or that there's a stanchion protecting those utilitiy items from a runaway car in the garage. Bottom line is that we had to rethink a lot to make sure there was enough space for gardening and her other hobby stuff.
If you aren't already looking at GarageJournal.com, this is a good time to start. Plenty of knowledge to absorb there, along with examples of some pretty interesting garage spaces. Everything from museum-quality display spaces to real working garages.
You already know about installing plenty of electrical outlets in the walls. Consider air lines in the walls too, with taps above workbench height and also below; I'm much more comfortable with an air hose reel built into a cabinet than I am with hoses and reels dangling from the ceiling. I put stub-outs at a couple convenient places overhead so I can put an air station on a lift column, but so far haven't been quite willing to pull the trigger on the connection down from the ceiling.
I put a twist-lock outlet in the ceiling over each of the Max-Jax places, for a station on each column. I made double-duplex outlet boxes with a pigtail that connects to the ceiling outlets, sticky to the column with a couple serious magnets. I'll probably use them someday. In your bigger space and maybe with a 4-post lift, that's a convenient way to have handy power next to the second bay.
There's no such thing as too much lighting. Besides some pretty serious workspace lighting, we put LED 'can' lights over the walkways so no need to light up everything to stadium levels when you just need to walk through or get to a car. There are some cool multi-station motion switches that manage the walkway lighting, so they go on and off as needed without fumbling in the dark for a switch.
I've got plenty of room and need for cabinets. This was from a couple of years ago right after I got the floor done and put the lifts in. It hasn't been that clean or organized since. I need to quit scaring-off contractors so that I can get the interior finished.