Is this worth a save
#18
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Huh, I see, already discussed.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-be-wrong.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-be-wrong.html
Everything seems pretty dam nice on the car. Only thing that is really niggling away at me is - why would the ignition control modules be pulled to remove the cam belt cover. Apparently it broke when they removed it. Of course this means I cannot start the car.
#19
Race Car
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THe control modules must've been scavenged.
On my car (86.5) at least, they are up front by the headlight bar.
I had a '85 previously and I don't think it had any modules anywhere near the timing covers.
It can be helpful to loosen the pass side coil when pulling the cover/accessing the gear/belt. That's all I can think of.
So, did you run the Actual VIN number??
Apparenlty "it" broke? What? THe timing cover? The module(s) ? Or the belt?
On my car (86.5) at least, they are up front by the headlight bar.
I had a '85 previously and I don't think it had any modules anywhere near the timing covers.
It can be helpful to loosen the pass side coil when pulling the cover/accessing the gear/belt. That's all I can think of.
So, did you run the Actual VIN number??
Apparenlty "it" broke? What? THe timing cover? The module(s) ? Or the belt?
#21
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Thread Starter
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THe control modules must've been scavenged.
On my car (86.5) at least, they are up front by the headlight bar.
I had a '85 previously and I don't think it had any modules anywhere near the timing covers.
It can be helpful to loosen the pass side coil when pulling the cover/accessing the gear/belt. That's all I can think of.
So, did you run the Actual VIN number??
Apparenlty "it" broke? What? THe timing cover? The module(s) ? Or the belt?
On my car (86.5) at least, they are up front by the headlight bar.
I had a '85 previously and I don't think it had any modules anywhere near the timing covers.
It can be helpful to loosen the pass side coil when pulling the cover/accessing the gear/belt. That's all I can think of.
So, did you run the Actual VIN number??
Apparenlty "it" broke? What? THe timing cover? The module(s) ? Or the belt?
I did run the vin and everything checked out - also got a clean carfax
#22
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3 weeks ago, I pulled the trigger on this - had her towed home and got the car up on lift bars - this weekend was the first chance I had any real time to start checking stuff out. First thing I did was drain the water from the block and right away my fears were confirmed. Looks like oil in the water to me. Next I drained the oil and that was completely clean, no trace of water, I also pulled the filter and again that was clean. What next ? My guess is that the head gasket has gone but Im not really sure why there wouldn't have been any water in the engine. All suggestions and advice would be appreciated.
#23
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Here are a few more photos of the car - looks to be in really nice shape and pretty well taken care of. Even has an intact cassette holder in the arm rest.
#24
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Don't rush to the dead engine with the oil in the coolant. This could be a radiator failure, not uncommon for the internal oil cooler in the radiator to fail.
Even if it is the engine, as long as things are straight you're looking at a head gasket which isn't the biggest deal.
If you have coolant in the oil you may have bigger problems, coolant in the oil stops the oil from setting up a film and can result in ruined bearings in very short order.
It's a project there are going to be surprises, just keep your eyes on the goal.
Beautiful car.
Good luck
Even if it is the engine, as long as things are straight you're looking at a head gasket which isn't the biggest deal.
If you have coolant in the oil you may have bigger problems, coolant in the oil stops the oil from setting up a film and can result in ruined bearings in very short order.
It's a project there are going to be surprises, just keep your eyes on the goal.
Beautiful car.
Good luck
#28
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Yes, test the radiator. Hopefully it will be a smoking gun. If not, then I would button it back up with fresh fluids and try to get it running to see what happens. If it goes poorly then you have two choices: Pull the motor and pull the heads, or just buy a used motor from Mark. Either way, you would want the motor out. Meanwhile, keep in mind that the big money in a 928 is not in the motor at all, but in the interior and paint. So use those fender covers, clean the front seats, and get some covers on the upholstry to keep it nice while you have motors fluids flying about.
#30
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No need to pull the engine on an S4 to do the drivers side, the passenger side looks a little tighter, can't say on any other. Changing them both is debatable, full tear down, change them both, planning on adding some forced induction, probably change them both, one's leaking and car still ran, I'd probably go with changing just the bad one, especially if it can be done in the car.