Is this worth a save
Nordschleife Master
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From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
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No need to pull the engine on an S4 to do the drivers side, the passenger side looks a little tighter, can't say on any other. Changing them both is debatable, full tear down, change them both, planning on adding some forced induction, probably change them both, one's leaking and car still ran, I'd probably go with changing just the bad one, especially if it can be done in the car.
So YES he would be pulling the engine if it does have head gasket issues...and doing both sides and a full reseal while in there plus motor mounts hoses etc.... no small task. Which is why the original owner punted when the shop started talking about what it MIGHT NEED and the $$$$$ involved.
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From: Rep of Texas, N NM, Rockies, SoCal
If your rad comes back tested good, put it back in, but bypass the oil cooler lines and don't go into the rad temporarily. You can run the engine for a while without the oil cooler in the rad connected. Then, fill the rad with clear water, no coolant, and flush it a few times. Run the engine for a while and see if you get oil in the water.
If so, pretty confirmed that you have head gasket leak or worse. If you run it for a while with clear water, and no oil mix, hook up the oil cooler and test again.
If so, pretty confirmed that you have head gasket leak or worse. If you run it for a while with clear water, and no oil mix, hook up the oil cooler and test again.
Race Car
Joined: Jan 2009
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Talk to Imo000 he has pulled heads on a 85-86 with the engine in. If I remember correctly he ground a bit of material off the top of one of the head studs to get the clearance.
If you have to remove the cam covers and the inner stud starts loosening first, just loosen all the bolts slowly, a couple turns at a time. The cam cover will come off and the inner studs that came out will come with it. Then remove them on the bench.
If you have to remove the cam covers and the inner stud starts loosening first, just loosen all the bolts slowly, a couple turns at a time. The cam cover will come off and the inner studs that came out will come with it. Then remove them on the bench.
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From: SF Bay Area
Update on progress
Pulled the radiator and will be dropping it off later today for a pressure test. Pulled the plugs to see if they could tell me anything. Also pulled the water pump. Plugs all looked ok except for maybe two that looked oily. I don't see any that look like they have been steam cleaned by a possible blown head gasket. When I pulled the water pump you could clearly see more of the sludge. There was also some yellow substance that looked like it had been flung around the bottom part of the engine. Any ideas as to what that is ?
Last edited by giddyupp; Oct 5, 2015 at 07:21 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
I had a Volvo blow an oil cooler in the rad once, one of the byproducts was a light yellow wax/grease like substance that I was forever cleaning out. Every time I though I got it all there would be another glob floating in the expansion tank. That would be some of what you're seeing in the water pump.
The yellow around the crank and sprinkled on the oil pan, possibly somebody spilled something, maybe engine seal, many recommend that you don't put them into the expansion tank.
But really not a clue.
The yellow around the crank and sprinkled on the oil pan, possibly somebody spilled something, maybe engine seal, many recommend that you don't put them into the expansion tank.
But really not a clue.
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After a couple of problems on the way she finally back came back to life last night. On first start up she spluttered and sounded kinda rough. After a minute the engine seemed to settle down but something still did not seem right. I wanted to get the engine up to temp so I could check for leaks and anything else whilst it was still up in the air. After about 5 or so minutes I looked under the car and noticed the CATs glowing red hot. I immediatly shut it down. Quickly realized that it was only running on 4 cylinders. Turns out the Ignition control module that the PO had put back in was bad. Got a new (used) one from Mark and she fired right up. Still seems to be idling pretty high but engine seems much smoother. I have a couple of questions.
1) Could the high idle just be because the LH has been unplugged for so long and needs to re learn or is there likely some other problem.
2) I also wasn't sure about the timing marks. Nothing seemed to move when I put the new belt on and after 4 revolutions by hand the timing marks seemed pretty good. pics attached. The mark on the passenger side was off a hair. Do the timing marks look within spec ? Unfortunately I do not have a before picture.
3) What else should I check for with a High idle?
1) Could the high idle just be because the LH has been unplugged for so long and needs to re learn or is there likely some other problem.
2) I also wasn't sure about the timing marks. Nothing seemed to move when I put the new belt on and after 4 revolutions by hand the timing marks seemed pretty good. pics attached. The mark on the passenger side was off a hair. Do the timing marks look within spec ? Unfortunately I do not have a before picture.
3) What else should I check for with a High idle?
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From: Bloomfield, MI
1. S3 (85-86.5's) do not save engine info, the CPU's get powered off when the key is switched off.
Hi idle, depending on how Hi (you didn't say) could be a vacuum leak to a bad ISV.
2. The Cam timing marks are close enough for now, as you really can't tell where the cams are in relationship to the gears, the gears are not fixed (keyed) on the cams. exact timing requires a cam timing tool or removal of the cam covers and a dial gauge.
3. Depends on how high
BTY the belt tracking looks right on the money
Good job!
Hi idle, depending on how Hi (you didn't say) could be a vacuum leak to a bad ISV.
2. The Cam timing marks are close enough for now, as you really can't tell where the cams are in relationship to the gears, the gears are not fixed (keyed) on the cams. exact timing requires a cam timing tool or removal of the cam covers and a dial gauge.
3. Depends on how high
BTY the belt tracking looks right on the money
Good job!
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From: Bloomfield, MI
O2 sensor won't cause the idle to be that high, however running rich or coolant in the exhaust won't do it much good either. When in doubt replace it
Also checking the connections on the tempII sensor and you can ohm it out too.
I'd be looking for a vacuum leak, start plugging up things (hoses) going into the manifold, start w/ small easy ones.
You will get good at taking the side plenums on and off
Also checking the connections on the tempII sensor and you can ohm it out too.
I'd be looking for a vacuum leak, start plugging up things (hoses) going into the manifold, start w/ small easy ones.
You will get good at taking the side plenums on and off