this looks to be a really cool upgrade.....what will the trim plates look like and how far out will the ***** stick out?

 

It may also be good option to have the ***** with the aluminum bezels as bunch of us have the bezels on most of the *****.

 

See CAD image for the initial design of the front fascia - it matches the stock units for size and mounting. The 2007-2009 ***** I have are what is modelled, and only those will fit in the stock space available. The newer 2010-2012 ***** that have the chrome trim ring are larger dia, and will not fit inside the fascia perimeter. But, those will be used for my flush conversion kit as the style matches the round louvers I'm using.
The ***** protrude ~0.53" from the face.

 

Al-
If I am going to make a custom front console, would you be able to make the early HVAC systems with the larger 2012 *****? They have a nicer look and feel to them compared to the earlier ***** that you have pictured. Just curious...

SS

 

Yes, the ***** are interchangeable on the circuit boards. I will have a front housing that is meant to be hidden behind a surface but will work with the larger *****. If you only want the ***** revealed through a console face (like the silver bracket pic at the start of this thread), this will be the way to go. I'll try to keep the ***** protruding 9/16" to 5/8" past a console face, but this will depend on the thickness of the face.

 

I like all the others applaud and amazed at your efforts. Where do I send my money! I want all, the flush mount, the vents, the HVAC upgrade the hole thing.

I am still not clear how we will manage the rear AC but it appears the details aren't all worked out yet and I would very much so like to remove the 2 rear AC controls, but am also OK with hiding them in the center console to retain them if needed. I don't want them or the warning/central lock/ac strip to mess up the clean look of this.

Is there a chance we could get the rear defrost to control the rear defrost? I know you suggested using this function for AC, just a though. I know we have a standalone switch in the pod for that but it makes more sense in the HVAC control unit.

Again THANKS for all the hard work. Patiently waiting.

 

I was planning to move the rear defrost switch to this new HVAC control, but finally realized I was getting too complicated and mixing systems into one unit. This would require some re-wiring in the dash, then the stock rear defrost switch would be redundant. Same process I went through with the warning strip - I really looked hard at integrating the various switches on the strips into my board, but decided that is getting too complex. Just keep it simple..... Using the RH button (originally for rear defrost) as the rear AC control is lucky really - the logo could be seen that way, and no text to say otherwise. I think most people will still see it as rear defrost because that is what they are used to in modern cars, it is a mindset. Just remember in the 928 where the rear defrost switch is - on the pod! . For those without rear AC - it can be used for anything you want - ejector seat, guns, NOS, .... Being a programmable control that uses relays to interface to the car, lots of things can be done! This whole project is not just for 928's - any car that uses On/Off airflow vent controls could use this, and that flexibility is being kept in mind as it develops.

 

Oh, how I would like this! Is there any issue with the later warning strips that include the trip reset button or is the warning strip unaffected by your HVAC controller design? Does your HVAC control incorporate the microswitch function at the bottom end of the temp setting slider to close the heater valve if the factory temp sensor circuit is not functioning correctly or does your design include its own temp sensor negating the factory sensors?

 

The warning strips are not affected by this, except that the AC switch wires will be connected to this control, and the switch removed from the strip housing. There will be a plastic plug designed to fill the hole where the switch was. I can simulate the microswitch function in the Arduino code, and the relay to control the vacuum solenoid can be configured as either NC or NO, so flexible for end user preference. The Temp ***** have a slightly different detent at both ends of the range so easy to define the microswitch position. While all the circuits are in place on the board to use the sensor string in the car, I don't have any plan to write the code for the Automatic temp control - not yet anyway. There is not a temp sensor on this board.

 

I finally got the housing design completed to work with the new 2-board design. Currently waiting for the new V3 circuit boards to arrive later this week, and all the electronic parts are here now. But, will be on vacation for a week, so not going to work on assemblies until second weekend in Feb. So, a quick summary of the features;
- This has six 20A relays for controlling the blower fan speeds - 4 can be setup for the main blower, and the other 2 can be used for the rear AC if you want.
- Also has the PWM output built-in for the front blower fan only.
- Temp control is setup for the stock setting motor on 928's, plus an output for the Thermotion voltage referenced controller if you want to switch to a variable water valve. Note, these are not tested yet. Once I get the first of the V3 assemblies done, I'll really get a good test done!
- There are 8 small 1A relays available to control the vacuum relays in the car, so extras are available for other signal uses.
- The stock 928 harness connectors plug into this unit like normal, except the fan power wires will be a short pigtail with a connector that plugs into the big harness connector.
- The whole unit mounts just like the original, but is only 4.08" deep from the mounting face on the side tabs.
- The **** lighting is Red or Blue, user selectable with a jumper. And, the lighting can be run from a stock rheostat control or a PWM driver, also user selectable jumper. The position indicator on the rotary ***** is Amber color - and I haven't found a way to change that.
- The whole thing is programmable, so pretty much anything is possible.
- All the outputs can also be pigtailed, so not limited to the Amp connectors on the HVAC harnesses in 928's.
After I get the next assemblies done, and proven that they work so I can say the complete redesigns are behind me(!), I'll work out the pricing of the components and figure out a price for the masses.

 

Don't forget to get a price to ship to Australia.

It almost doesn't matter what the price is - this is so SWEET, and I want at least one.

 

Great work!

 

Anything yet?
No offense but 6 months..... C'mon already

 

Wow...really?

No offense, but you'd be the last guy I would sell one to about right now.


If it's so easy, where is your ground-up design and product, including what...3 rounds of R&D?

 

I was actually prepping this post when I saw the last 2 comments. Here is the latest - I just got the first plastic housing today on my lunch break, the first V3 board is assembled, and currently re-writing the code to work with the new hardware setup. Other than a week off to visit family in NorCal, this project IS my spare time.
The housing needs a couple additions to keep the long walls from warping, a little thicker here and there - not bad for a first attempt at 3D printed parts. The surface texture is about 320grit sandpaper, a very flat black. So, will be trying some semi-gloss black paint to see if I can match the color and look of the stock head unit black plastic.
The dual circuit board assembly went really well - only a couple minor issues in the design, and these will be corrected in the V3.1 boards - I'm hoping this is the last of the complete redesigns, and now is just small adjustments for future production.
The code rewrite is ongoing - working on getting the relays operating with test code first, then the Temp control output next. Working on the PWM fan speed control and the Thermotion variable water valve output will be the last steps.