Headlamps and Condenser interference..
#1
Thread Starter
Headlight & condenser.... UPDATE
i upgraded to a s4 and later condenser and the linkage for the headlights hits and gets stuck...... if the condenser was back, 1/4" it would clear....
i do see that later cars have a different part number for the top condenser brackets.....
anyone else do this and or know what the issue is. ?
i do see that later cars have a different part number for the top condenser brackets.....
anyone else do this and or know what the issue is. ?
Last edited by Ducman82; 06-05-2015 at 10:22 PM.
#2
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are you rotating the headlight motor by hand? It can be manually rotated past where it'll normally stop- Here's the 'normal' stop:
If you go past that, you can get the arm to hit the condenser on a later car:
For whatever it's worth, the upper condenser brackets (928 573 101/2 03) for 87-95 are 125 mm long:
If you go past that, you can get the arm to hit the condenser on a later car:
For whatever it's worth, the upper condenser brackets (928 573 101/2 03) for 87-95 are 125 mm long:
#5
Rennlist Member
Yeah, the early cars spin a complete circle. I put a later condenser on mine and it works great... will run down to the car in the morning and get some comparative measurements.
#7
Thread Starter
i did a little more searching, looks like some others had this issue as well, but no one posted what they did to fix it.
will l later motor work in an early car? mechanical wise, looks to be the same......
will l later motor work in an early car? mechanical wise, looks to be the same......
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#8
Rennlist Member
Jake,
I have no idea if you have mismatched components but what I did to connect the thing mechanically was to undo the crank arm from the motor, get someone to switch the lights on [ignition on] and watch where the motor spindle stops- the lights should also come on but still in the retracted position. Switch them off and check to see the spindle travels in the reverse direction. If all appears to be working as it should, turn the light switch on again, the lights should come on- and then switch the ignition off [leaving the light switch on]. The lights should go out but the spindle should stay in the up position.
At this point lift the lights up mechanically and get someone to hold them in the upright position and then connect the crank arm to the motor spindle. If that does not solve your problem then you need deeper analysis.
Rgds
Fred
I have no idea if you have mismatched components but what I did to connect the thing mechanically was to undo the crank arm from the motor, get someone to switch the lights on [ignition on] and watch where the motor spindle stops- the lights should also come on but still in the retracted position. Switch them off and check to see the spindle travels in the reverse direction. If all appears to be working as it should, turn the light switch on again, the lights should come on- and then switch the ignition off [leaving the light switch on]. The lights should go out but the spindle should stay in the up position.
At this point lift the lights up mechanically and get someone to hold them in the upright position and then connect the crank arm to the motor spindle. If that does not solve your problem then you need deeper analysis.
Rgds
Fred
#9
Thread Starter
no, that all works fine. from what i have read, is that the early cars motor does a complete 360, it does not reverse like the later cars. I'm willing to bet the later cars do that, so that they do not hit the condenser. I'm going to go out and check the wiring diagrams and see if the car side is the same.... but ill wait till someone with a little more knowledge about how they works "internal diodes etc" chimes in before i head to marks....
#11
Rennlist Member
no, that all works fine. from what i have read, is that the early cars motor does a complete 360, it does not reverse like the later cars. I'm willing to bet the later cars do that, so that they do not hit the condenser. I'm going to go out and check the wiring diagrams and see if the car side is the same.... but ill wait till someone with a little more knowledge about how they works "internal diodes etc" chimes in before i head to marks....
God luck with this one- sounds as though it is going to take some ingenuity to resolve. Is it possible to remount the motor further forwards? Doubt this could be done on my model but..?
Rgds
Fred.
#12
Thread Starter
Nope. Looks like I'll need to fit the later motor and relay.
Motors mount the same..... Electrics are what will be needed, and I'm to it! Relay wiring will be the fun part. Hope the two relays are physically the same size
Motors mount the same..... Electrics are what will be needed, and I'm to it! Relay wiring will be the fun part. Hope the two relays are physically the same size
#13
Rennlist Member
The S4 relay is a bit of a monster- about 3 times the size of the stock 53 type unit & don't ask about the price.
I'd ask Alan if he can devise a smart electrical workaround for you unless you are into that sort of thing.
Rgds
Fred
I'd ask Alan if he can devise a smart electrical workaround for you unless you are into that sort of thing.
Rgds
Fred
#15
Rennlist Member
Here is a vid of my motor making a complete 360:
I've attached a pic of the area to show the clearance available. I must have some intermediate MY condenser, it's only about 23" wide. You may find it easier to swap condensers than to change out the motor. My mounts were the same 125mm that Rob mentioned, BTW.
I've attached a pic of the area to show the clearance available. I must have some intermediate MY condenser, it's only about 23" wide. You may find it easier to swap condensers than to change out the motor. My mounts were the same 125mm that Rob mentioned, BTW.