greg Brown Oil baffle installation
#1
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greg Brown Oil baffle installation
Installing the GB oil baffle and confused as to gasket stack up.
Should I install a paper gasket under the baffle between baffle and engine as well as another between top of baffle and oil filler assembly or only between top of baffle and filler assembly?
Plan to use Honda bond as well. Does it go between each surface?
Should I install a paper gasket under the baffle between baffle and engine as well as another between top of baffle and oil filler assembly or only between top of baffle and filler assembly?
Plan to use Honda bond as well. Does it go between each surface?
#2
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Greg recommends Dreibond - with or without gaskets is your choice. From Greg's instructions I do not think he uses gaskets at all.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#3
Former Vendor
Sealing anything has more to do with "flatness" than anything else.
Since the block is bound to be flat and the baffle is flat, I use a thin layer of Dreibond between those two surfaces.
i have no idea of how other sealants work....I use Porsche factory sealants and lubricants on my engines and since these sealants and lubricants work so well for me, I do not "experiment" with other sealants or lubricants.
On plastic filler necks, I use a new O-ring and a thin layer of Dreibond, after checking the filler neck for flatness. Some are warped badly and need help.
On metal filler necks, I make sure they are flat (which they rarely are), before doing anything.
I suggest using the stock baffle (with O-ring) found on some of the later engines. This piece will fit right into the opening on the top of my baffle. I use Dreibond to seal the stock baffle to my baffle and to seal the filler neck to the stock baffle.
If you are unable to source one of the stock baffles, you can use the stock gasket between my baffle and the filler neck. (With a thin layer of Dreibond on both sides of that thick gasket. Torque to 60 inch pounds.
Keep in mind, that if your vehicle came from the factory with that stock gasket, the filler neck is likely to be warped and will need attention. (The two bolts, relatively far apart, tend to pull down the corners when there is a thick gasket between them.)
One final note. If you have had the stock filler neck powder coated, I'd suggest removing the powder coating on the sealing surface, besides making sure the surface is flat.
Hope this helps you out.
Since the block is bound to be flat and the baffle is flat, I use a thin layer of Dreibond between those two surfaces.
i have no idea of how other sealants work....I use Porsche factory sealants and lubricants on my engines and since these sealants and lubricants work so well for me, I do not "experiment" with other sealants or lubricants.
On plastic filler necks, I use a new O-ring and a thin layer of Dreibond, after checking the filler neck for flatness. Some are warped badly and need help.
On metal filler necks, I make sure they are flat (which they rarely are), before doing anything.
I suggest using the stock baffle (with O-ring) found on some of the later engines. This piece will fit right into the opening on the top of my baffle. I use Dreibond to seal the stock baffle to my baffle and to seal the filler neck to the stock baffle.
If you are unable to source one of the stock baffles, you can use the stock gasket between my baffle and the filler neck. (With a thin layer of Dreibond on both sides of that thick gasket. Torque to 60 inch pounds.
Keep in mind, that if your vehicle came from the factory with that stock gasket, the filler neck is likely to be warped and will need attention. (The two bolts, relatively far apart, tend to pull down the corners when there is a thick gasket between them.)
One final note. If you have had the stock filler neck powder coated, I'd suggest removing the powder coating on the sealing surface, besides making sure the surface is flat.
Hope this helps you out.
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks Greg.
As appears to be typical I could not get the water bridge bolts to budge and did not want to snap them off as I don't have any leaks there today. I need to source a replacement water bridge and new hardware before tempting fate.
Installation of your baffle will have to wait - darn it!
As appears to be typical I could not get the water bridge bolts to budge and did not want to snap them off as I don't have any leaks there today. I need to source a replacement water bridge and new hardware before tempting fate.
Installation of your baffle will have to wait - darn it!
#6
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Jim I just put one in my car. Roger included the gasket and I put in under my (plastic) filler neck in combination with the o-ring and ample sealant. The baffle itself was very flat to the block so just used sealant for that joint.
BTW, I think Ben has a metal filler neck available, if you're interested in some fresh powder-coat bling.
BTW, I think Ben has a metal filler neck available, if you're interested in some fresh powder-coat bling.
Last edited by Tom in Austin; 05-26-2015 at 12:04 PM.
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Like this:
#12
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Yes, to cut down on the amount of oil that gets sprayed up into the base of the filler neck and drawn back into the MAF elbow through the hose connected to the base of filler necks on 87-91 models.
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