Ducman82

Cost me , if I remember right, 250? To get the Pistons fly cut for the 2v heads. All the rest of the "cost" was maintenance and rebuild. Nothing else really special needed. Finding the euro parts is the fun part of the build. I got a ridiculously good deal from a gentleman in England. Heads, cams, towers, i take...... All shipped for 700 bucks. I paid more for shipping than I did for the parts!!

slate blue

Well, the engine design is quite old and not optimised, so rather than just trying to force air into it and still have the restrictive heads and exhaust, I decided to port the heads and build a custom exhaust. We are rebuilding the engine and you can view the reworked heads with the larger 48 mm intakes valves in my other threads. The custom exhaust is also there for viewing, these changes are sympathetic with the car and fix what is there rather than apply a band aid.

I am not knocking forced induction, I am just saying fix what is there first before trying to up the ante, the 5.0 litre approach is also simpler in terms of tuning etc, while your in there please change to a later type of injector and give yourself a compression bump.

Tazzieman

What do you recommend for 16v heads + 5.0 block?

Strosek Ultra

My setup with ported heads, 48mm intake valves, sports camshafts, special valve springs, Dellorto 48mm carbs and intake would do nicely on a 5.0L block.
See post #22: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-money-2.html
See post #27: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-money-2.html
Åke

slate blue

If you are referring to the injectors, I was using 28 lb 4 spray hole GM injectors made by Bosch. I bought slightly larger EV14 style for the 104 mm bore engine as they have much lighter internal components, maybe something like that in a injector around 24 to 26 lb as long as you can tune it.

Debrue

I don't have itemized costs just a guestimate. I have about an hour or two of research. Decided to post rennlist with questions.

I think costs are roughly the same between s/c and 5.0 swap and finished power will be similar. I have read a basic s/c kit will add up to 100hp and by the looks of it a 5.0 swap is about the same with proper heads, cams, intake.

New s/c is $6k and $8k a used kit will be less. I will do the install.

the 5.0 block will be up to $3000 including purchase, shipping, refresh plus heads, cam and new everything when you put it together (belt, h2o pump, headers, exhaust, injectors, tuning), yank the 4.5 and install 5.0. I figure $6-$8k. I will pay for the install.

mark kibort

the 5.0 upgrade is cheap... just flycut those pistons, rebearing the rod bearings and put it back together. you dont need a water pump, or anything else. sometimes a new water pump, as we have seen is more suspect than a good old one. a few new gaskets, timing belt and off you go. even with no euro stuff, you are in good shape..... however, i would certainly do the euro heads and cams. intake you can do later or make something to bolt on later.

Tazzieman

I only have K Jet , so no good for me

Ducman82

With k jet, you can make a euro hybrid still

Tazzieman

I've got a hybrid (US M28/44 block + Aussie 16v heads) ; it has the old style injectors

mark kibort

the CIS hybrids are the most powerful (aside from a real LHjet euro hybrid)
310-320rwhp vs 290rwhp for a US 80-84 Ljet conversion)

Tazzieman

It does seem to manage to "keep up with modern traffic"

GregBBRD

As usual, some of the dyno numbers being tossed around here are just plain silly.

You have to be realistic/use your head.

A stock, good running '85/'86 Euro with 80,000+ miles will make about 275rwhp +/- 10hp.

Why would anyone think that simply raising the displacement 300cc raise the rwhp output 35-45 horsepower, with no other changes?

Simply not going to happen. Totally Dreamland stuff.

Tazzieman

Mine had some changes apparently , the worst of which was converting a non-interference motor into an interference one. But I can live with that "mod".

Dave928S

Your motor is proof that pistons don't have to be flycut (I've viewed them with an endoscope), and that when you don't flycut, it then becomes an interference motor (which I've also physically confirmed). It would be interesting to know what your compression ratio is ... I suspect it might be up there.