clutch brackets
#1
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With those who have removed a newer model clutch did you use the little brackets described in the WSM and if so what did you make them from?
A pic would be great.......thx
A pic would be great.......thx
#3
Archive Gatekeeper
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L shaped aluminum channel from Home Despot and a jigsaw. It's ~0.08" or ~2mm thick.
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/PP%20shims.jpg)
#6
Archive Gatekeeper
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They take some spring pressure off of the TOB/release arm, so you can wiggle them around and off of the pivot ball. Spacing the pressure plate 2mm back may not seem like much but it really helps.
#7
Drifting
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Malcolm,
PM me your email. I have a clutch R&R that I received from a rennlister. Sorry don't remember who, that I could forward to you. Has a lot of pictures and is more informative then the WSM.
PM me your email. I have a clutch R&R that I received from a rennlister. Sorry don't remember who, that I could forward to you. Has a lot of pictures and is more informative then the WSM.
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#8
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thx Rob......I don't believe that will be any issue as the TOB/release arm are very loose.
#9
Three Wheelin'
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When it's bolted to the flywheel.. but when the bolts are loosened, the preload on the fingers is lost and they return to their natural position applying so much pressure that it's impossible to disassemble release arm from TOB. I could be wrong but that's why the manual suggests the shims before removal. You could probably use C-clamps and wood blocks if for some reason you didn't insert them before loosening the flywheel bolts, but why fight it?
#10
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The shims (early) or brackets (late) make the difference, even though it doesn't seem that they will, and that there appears to be plenty of clearance, before loosening of the bolts.
#11
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thx guys......I'll search the local home despot and fashion up some brackets.
Appreciate your inputs and pics........cheers.
Appreciate your inputs and pics........cheers.
#13
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C clamp (or if you're Greg, your bare freaking bearclaw hands....)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/C-clamp%20used%20to%20shim%20PP%201-5-08.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/C-clamp%20used%20to%20shim%20PP%201-5-08.jpg)
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/C-clamp%20used%20to%20shim%20PP%20closeup.jpg)
#14
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thx Rob............I tried the C-clamp method on the PP I took out and could barely move the damn thing. Ended up taking it to a machine shop to get the release arm off.
#15
Nordschleife Master
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Make sure they're oriented/sized so you can turn the clutch pack around to get at all 3 (use a long pry-bar to push the pressure plate away while you insert the spacers)
I just use small flat bits of 3mm aluminium - they don't need to be L-shaped like the wsm says.
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/800x600/img_0713_8995a17941c18256983411d52154b57a63c33f03.jpg)
For assembly, IIRC, setting it all up on the floor of the garage, then standing on the edge of the plate to push the fingers onto the release bearing works quite well
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Lastly, while the clutch is out, remove and inspect the clutch ball and the CPS, and clean any corrosion in their holes. If the ball's been beaten on by the metal of the release arm (once the plastic cup has disintegrated) it can be out of round and need replacing. If you're like me, you can just replace it for the hell of it.
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/800x600/img_0775_b681008083b037f051796e31de4d64bcf6610fb5.jpg)