hacker-pschorr

So, in the GT resurrection thread you have Rob and Mark performing a "White Glove" restoration of a GT that came out of Chicago now living in Southern California.
In this thread you have a "bare minimum to get it back on the road" project of an S4 from Southern California now living north of Green Bay.

Some of you may recall:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-rogerbox.html

I've really been on the fence with this one. Part of me just wanted to leave it alone, change the oil and drive it until next winter and do a full R&R then in preparation of a Murf928 Stage 3+ Supercharger

Problem is, the flappy isn't working, vacuum has zero effect on it, which means the intake really has to come off. So, might as well tear down the front and see what's all going on there too.

I've "assisted" with 32V cars before, but never gone full solo working on one.
A few observation from a 5-speed 16V'er working on an automatic 32V for the first time doing maintenance (up until now I've pretty much only installed superchargers on these...I left the boring stuff to Mike (Z), Tim Murphy, and Turbo Todd)

1. I somehow managed to remove the fans without destroying them, and without removing either oil or transmission cooling lines to the radiator. Not fun......
2. I have to remove WHAT to get the lower belt cover off???? I removed more bolts here than the entire 16V timing belt job combined. Holy hell that was frustrating.
3. Upper belt covers are a LOT easier to remove than a 16V, probably because they are metal and not paper thin plastic.
4. I've never used a flywheel lock tool before. With my 5-speeds I just set the parking brake and have Lorelei stand on the brake pedal. Thankfully I had one of Tim Murphy universal jobs in the tool box.

I'm WAY behind schedule with this project.
Why?
To be 100% honest I could not find my service covers....not kidding. Where did I find them? In the front seat of my 944S parked in the corner of my 2nd garage. Satan himself only knows how they ended up there...
.....and I've been working on other cars.

Yea yea...I need hood shocks.

Anyway....photo time. All shot with my phone because I was way too greasy to grab the Nikon.



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hacker-pschorr

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JEC_31

Cam gears lookin' good there, Marilyn.
That said... is that oil leak from tensioner?

dr bob

1) I'm imppressed, but wonder why you didn't remove at least the top oil cooler line before lifting the fan console out. Makes it a whole lot faster and easier.

2) The pulley and balancer have to come off, and the alternator/power steering pump console gets unbolted and moved down out of the way some. Support the alternator from above, replace the power steering hoses and the reservoir, flush the old system.

3) True, but with the distributor caps, rotors and wires added to the mix.

4) IMHO, Flywheel lock should probably be used for all interference-engine belt work, regardless of gearbox. Particularly important if you roll the car out a bit to clean up some minor environmental disaster even from the floor under the engine. Like the coolant from the galley plugs.

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Thanks for the pictures!

linderpat

what the frig is going on with pictures here anymore. I'm seeing a bunch of small thumbs that have to be separately clicked to enlarge. Sometimes I just get a jpeg box that I have to click. I've posted in the tech help section, and had a pm on it, but what gives?

Mark R.

What is your plan for the cam gears?
They appear to be in pretty good shape.
Are you going to have them recoated?
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hacker-pschorr

Because after it was already removed, I searched the forum to figure out why I had such a difficult time since I didn't remember it being that much of a PIA.

Yup, figured that out one bolt at a time.......and a lot of swearing.

Gretch and I are rattling the IB cages to figure this one out. It's very annoying.

For now I'm going to leave them be since next winter I plan to pull the motor and really go through it.

I bought this car at the absolute worst time considering my other projects. Right now it's going against every fiber of my being not to tear everything off and replace with shiny new......but I don't have the time. Sitting next to the 87 is my replica cobra with no suspension and lots of other bits removed and boxes upon boxes of new stuff to put on. That's my main priority at the moment. Working on the 87 in-between parts being fabricated for the roadster and stuff still yet to arrive.

dr bob

I'll flag it as 'bandwidth management', since page loads take a lot less time with the smaller thumbnail images. Plus they cost IB/RL less unless YOU decide you want to look at something. On other forums, once you load one of the thumbs and open it, you can page between them as needed. Perhaps this is the best compromise between full images every time, and the mobile solution with no images unless you open them specifically.

*** I have no specific knowledge of how vbulletin actually manages all this stuff. So the above is pure speculation on my part. No animals had any bytes taken out of them while preparing this message. ***

hacker-pschorr

I'm pulling the front engine harness for inspection and to replace the outer sheathing since they are all hard as a rock and cracked. Also a good time to clean up all the connections and replace any wire ends that look bad.

Upon removal and inspection, the multi-pin connector cracked (when I tried to snap it back together, and the main power lead has seen better days.
I added the zip tie to keep all the bits from falling all over.

Now....this power lead "looked" fine until I tried to straighten it out, but a good example of something that could have caused future issues without being very apparent as to where the issue was coming from.

Also why the jump post cover is so important......

I'm also seeing if Roger can get a new one, no idea if this is NLA or not.


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dr bob

Change the internal color of that main power lead WYAIT. That dark brown with some hints of green is so '80s. Upgrade to a new modern orange color with red jacket.

By the time a harness is as crispy and oxidized as yours appears, you realty need to replace the conductors, sheathing and connectors. OK to use the rest i guess... That cracked shell and the broken insulation over very tired copper say "replace me!" in a loud and clear voice. My too sense.

Dave928S

Sean builds nice replacement engine harnesses, which Roger sells, with all the correct connectors and wire colours. There's a recent thread here with details ... Edit: here it is .. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-928srus.html

Rob Edwards

Roger does. And Mark does.

hacker-pschorr

I have two complete chassis harnesses from a Prius. Bright orange and double insulated. Bright orange and a larger gauge wire....it might be too big.
Otherwise I have some very high grade red power wire on a spool somewhere.

Yea....as I was posting that I was thinking it would just be easier to rebuild the harness from scratch using all new connectors.

I've seen that and it's a nice product.
However, I build my own harnesses and have enough wire & connectors in stock to re-wire a few 928's. I completely rebuilt the fuel injection / ignition and front chassis harness on my 81 when I switched it over to LH/EZF.



MARK!!!! Run to the post office and toss one in the box you just sent me!!!!

I figured with so much NLA for these cars this connector was a long shot and I'd have to find a 2nd hand one.