When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since we moved to Rockport I have mounted the pump/reservoir onto one of the lift post and use a PVC pipe to run electrical and hydraulic hose overhead to the other.
Saves floor space and keep the hose out of the way.
For me this has become the tool of preference to have when working on the 928.
Options are reinforced with mesh, or post-tension with end-threaded bar passing through the cured pad. Post-tension floors have a warning label alerting you to the under-tension bars in the concrete. No label, you have mesh or no-tension bar for reinforcement.
Pre-stressed members are used where only the edges are supported, to manage loads in the unsupported spans. If you had cellar space under the garage, you might have ore-stressed concrete but even then it's extremely unlikely in a residential garage.
Label specifically says that you have a post-tension slab, warns about drilling. Rob's floor is post-tensioned, and he was able to find the original floor plans including spacing of the tension rods. If you have mesh or rebar, you get to use a rebar cutting bit if you happen to hit some as you drill into the concrete. Trying to go through rebar with the masonry bit dulls the drill, doesn't go through the steel, but most importantly risks a balloon spot in the hole that will prevent the cinch anchor from setting correctly. We hit steel on the last hole in Rob's new garage, so he ordered the rebar cutter and set the last anchor himself. He has the low-miles bit.
Hell, seeing everyone else's posts about getting Christmas present, I going to get this next week as year end bonus and hopefully they'll have stock for local pickup.
Last edited by Bmw635; 12-25-2014 at 03:22 AM.
Reason: Buying the lift.
Received my twin monuments to 928 madness yesterday, and I am thrilled to report that my aim was true - no PEX tubing was harmed during this production. I'll sleep easy tonight.
Artist's conception of where the tubes are supposed to be. Maybe they really are.
What you need is some super-duper Doppler ultrasound probe like the vascular surgeons use to check blood flow. Turn on the pump for the radiant heating, and map out where there's flow by Doppler.
Very cool. I want to do that to my head and see what it shows during a migraine.
Hell, seeing everyone else's posts about getting Christmas present, I going to get this next week as year end bonus and hopefully they'll have stock for local pickup.
That's a bit on the low side of mid rise for my taste, 38" is the total height which only raises the car a couple feet. Perfect for its intended use, tire, brake, and suspension work, but not much else.
It also lifts from the frame rail, not the lift points.
After reading this thread, I'm glad I bought a Workhorse portable lift. I can walk under my cars, and move the lift anywhere it's needed. runs on 110, plug it in with 100' extension cord. They're pricy but worth it.
Looks like the axle bolt on the little tranport wheels need a little snugging, at least in the picture.
I dropped by my local industrial hardware store and found pretty grade-8 anchor bolts in yellow cad. More important is the matching grade-8 flat washers that won't 'cup' when the anchor bolts are tightened. Cheap upgrade. I needed longer bolts anyway since my anchors are set well below the tile.
Plastic "chassis plugs" will protect the holes in the floor from dirt when the columns aren't doing that job. If the anchors are sitting clos to the top of the holes, some Allen setscrews will do the job too. Or buttonheads that will cover the whole hole, if you don't mind the 'button' head part above floor level.
That's a bit on the low side of mid rise for my taste, 38" is the total height which only raises the car a couple feet. Perfect for its intended use, tire, brake, and suspension work, but not much else.
It also lifts from the frame rail, not the lift points.
Most folks add a few blocks under the lift points. Buys a couple inches, but for undercar work the ramps are right at noggin-dinging height. MaxJax is only slightly better though, substituting the arms for the ramps. Still at noggin-dinging height. Needs additional care when gliding around under the car on the roller seat. Bonk!, and then another word or three.
The lift I posted has no cross bar between the 2 ramps so you can drop the entire rear trans, tt, and engine as 1piece. Like Dr Bob said, you can add rubber block to raise another 4-6" or add the optional SUV kit to lift SUV.
There are lots of nice lifts but this one suits me best because it doesn't require anchoring and allow full access front to rear without the brace between the 2 ramps like most other scissor lift. My garage celing is 8ft so taller lift won't make any difference.
This used to be my woodworking shop. I was never any good at it, so I'll try this. The next time you hear from me, it will be from the motor mount rabbit hole.
12-24-2014, 01:25 PM
Pump and reservoir
