Dave928S

Is the rear not lined up/flexplate permanently bowed? See post #7.

ROG100

Answered in Post #9

However Dave maybe right - the amount of shaft showing clear of the TT is very important on setup and often gets moved/changed on assembly to the gearbox if you are not careful.

ROG100

Constantine - just to be clear I have always extolled your Superclamp to be the best of the best and have always spoken highly of it to my customers. Likewise with your bearings. My product release in no way is meant to slight in any way the marvelous work you have done and continue to do.

I brought this product into my portfolio because I believe it takes the fix for TBF to the next level and you do not have to remove the TT or Gearbox to fit it.

At some point someone like Greg (or you) will take it to the next level and fix it once and for all - I hope.

How many Superclamps could you sell if you did not have to drop the TT or Gearbox? Answer - lots more.

UpFixenDerPorsche

Will I? Won't I? Will I? Won't I? .....

Naaaaahhhh.

Mongo

This is my case as my car had a TT done back in 2002. It moved. There is a slight permanent bow on my front flexplate.. ever so slight.

GregBBRD

The rear flexplate is completely out of the picture, since it is on the transmission side of a set of double ball bearings inside an unmovable aluminum housing.

People do screw up the rear pinch bolt location on the shaft with amazing regularity, however.

On the "early cars" with the supplementary shims, washer, and circlip, the instructions for calculating the shim thickness required are very clear. They want the rear bolt installed and the shaft pulled forward as far as possible, before tightening the bolt. Only then do they want the required shim thickness measured.

They apparently wanted there to be no chance of the shaft pulling forward out of the rear assembly, allowing any "slop" in the shim pack.

Anything that keeps the shaft from pulling out of the flexplate, when it shortens, will do the job.

Before all of these clamp options (I was forced to fix flexplate problems, long before any aftermarket clamp was offered), I simply used the "early shafts" with the circlip groove in it and added the shims, washer, and circlip, from the early cars. No possible way for the shaft to pull rearward (move in the original clamp) with these pieces there. Although the shims, the washer, and the circlip were a real bitch to install (which I believe is why Porsche eliminated them) on the 4 speed cars....the pieces were simple, fail proof, and very cheap.

All of my replacement shafts (as well as all the shafts that 928 International has ever made) have the extra dimension in the front, with the circlip groove....allowing the addition of the factory pieces from the early cars.

Black Sea RD

Don't be shy, wade on in, the water is fine...

Dave928S

Just to clarify ... what was not clear in this post or, in fact, as clear in post #7, was what I was referring to at the front and rear.

I was referring to the rear coupler not being correctly lined up, and the front flexplate being bowed ... both of which are observed, and would affect spline engagement at the front. Not being an auto enthusiast ... ... it didn't even cross my mind to mention a rear flexplate.

GregBBRD

Yes, knew you understood this.

Just clarifying for all the new people reading, making sure that they understand that the rear flexplate is not involved, but it is common for people to completely "miss" the correct "slot" for the rear bolt. You'd be amazed at how many cars I see with the driveshaft pushed 3/4" too far back.

Mongo

So regardless of loosening and tightening up the rear flexplate collar bolt, this will not get fixed????

I have seen some other pictures where more splines were showing than mine and the bolt was loosened. This is the best I can do. Also, my movement hasn't really shown much since only 800 miles has been put on the car since this picture was taken back last year.

EDIT: This is the front bolt and collar by the way in the pic.

Black Sea RD

Hi Andy,

Actually that is not bad and can be considered normal.

Thats why I'm having a problem understanding how this new device will fit for all applications. Not too mention the taper of a 28mm driveshaft.

However I'm quite sure that after a 2 year R and D it's all worked out.

Cheers,

Mongo

I think the tolerance is too tight on this new type clamp. If the body of it cannot be separated, and an adjustment setup included, there are going to be a lot of people like me buying it and banging their heads in frustration as to why it won't install right....

Mongo

On a side note, SOME people have told me my TT shaft is jacked up based on how that picture looks and that I may be experiencing excess play. I did notice the last time I torqued that bolt my Sears wrench registered 66 ft lbs, but when I used a newer Sears one to check it, the torque was actually 71

ROG100

Mongo & Constantine - maybe take your discussion elsewhere as it has no association with my thread and is getting rude to say the least. Neither of you have seen the clamp, know the designer or have placed an order for it. We have a number of the clamps fitted to 87 to 95 cars with 28mm shafts so what gives you the knowledge to diss another persons hard work and effort is mindless.

Since when have I or Richard made snide comments about your products.
Mongo - how you can decide that this clamps will not work is beyond my comprehension - I doubt Richard would have invested so much money in designing, developing and initially testing on his own 928 a product that does not work. I would never bring a product to the market knowing it would not work. I have watched Richard develop the product on the UK forum for the last 12 months which is when I took an interest in it.
Constructive criticism is welcome but snide remarks, particularly from a professional like you Constantine, are unwarranted and unwelcome.
Please start your own thread to discuss the issue Mongo is having with his TT.

Mongo

You're right I haven't tested the clamp out yet. I'm not trying to come off as rude and hijack the thread, nor am I trying to kill business off from you as I am one of your customers. I am confused as hell however as to how my TT shaft should actually sit in order for that clamp to work.

Primarily I have been holding off on clamping products until something new came out. Here comes Richard's clamp; it has everything I want, but then someone on here comments that because of the amount of splines showing on the picture, immediately the product would not work on my car. I have my doubts about that, but no need to get offended or insulted if I am concerned on how the orientation of my shaft would affect the positioning and installation of the new clamp.

I am just here to get more info and my questions answered. My apologies, but I'm not getting into another pissing contest on Rennlist here, nor am I trying to de-escalate a thread into something childish... I already have a newborn I am dealing with here as it is.