The product guide doesn't state it can be used as a total replacement for stock heat shields, but i think it's ideal for heat shielding and will serve the same function as the stock shields.

I think it is designed for protection in addition to your stock heat shields, but my stock shields were rusted where the mounting points were, and i don't have any cats, so that area will not see the typical high heat you get with functioning cats.

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...und-insulation

 

stock heat shields are just aluminum (alloy, that rusts?) formed to shape, I guess some woven fibre glass glued to the aluminum could help.

 

I guarantee the heatshields under all 928's are sheet metal, aluminized for the reflective quality maybe, the rear muffler heat shield yes is just aluminum foil, but that's about it. The adhesive is a pressure sensitive backing designed to be applied to the body, what i need to know is whether doing the entire tunnel with this stuff would be sufficient as to replace the function of the stock heat shields.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-coatings.html

 

They're sheet metal. Take one off and feel the weight, tap it too, it's sheet metal. If i can sandblast one of the heatshields and leave it out overnight and it has flash rust on it the next day from morning dew, it's steel.

 

Audis and VWs use something like what you have in the link. I didn't read yhe specs, only looked at the picture.

 

DEI makes the same stuff in a larger roll, I use it extensively. A true barrier like the factory heat shields is preferrable as there is air flow around it but putting this on will do wonders for heat control. Covering factory (or "remanufactured") heat shields with this will protect almost anything but a chocolate bar.

 

But what about a total replacement? Like i said i have hollowed out cats (but that is going to change since i have Devek Level 1 headers now) so heat in that area will be less of a concern. When i took the heatshields off, the mounting points where they screw into speed nuts were rusted around, so they weren't really holding anything. The rest of them were good, just corroded around the mounting points. I started blasting them but then i thought "what the hell am i gonna coat them with?" and i figured just using this stuff would be better than trying to salvage the factory shields or finding ones from a dry state/region. Here even if you don't winter drive cars, if you park/store it anywhere unheated the ground sweat/dew will collect all over the underside of the car and rust anything ferrous that is uncovered.

Just a few weeks ago i sandblasted any problem areas, applied a zinc rich primer (self etching), and used Wurth SKS stoneguard (OEM equivalent). The problem areas were just the lift points, any exposed rear suspension pieces, and around the right side of the fuel tank "cubby" around a frame rail. It's a good idea to make sure there's nothing forming underneath the factory undercoating, i love how the German manufacturers apply undercoating fastidiously, but over time sometime the undercoating can trap rust underneath and you don't see it until it becomes perforation rust. Seen it on alot of E39's and VW's around here (the rust belt).

 

I do not think I would use it in place of the factory shields, the quantity of air gap between the shields and body is considerably larger than the insulative gap provided by the DEI product. I would be concerned about being stopped in traffic, you might get a pretty warm tunnel. If you are moving, there shouldn't be any problem.