Is there a set of instructions out there for how to modify a gold pktensioner to the black edition? I'm pretty sure it's straightforward, but I want to be 100% sure.

 

Let's not start another tensioner war. It is what it is.



There are more pics via my flickr link below.

 

Basically, it is just a matter of drilling out the 8mm threads for the lever and pulley with a 8.0mm drill bit (not 5/16"). Then chamfer both ends of the hole with a larger drill bit (EG 1/2").

Roger stocks the required hardware for the conversion.


Here is the newest PKT-B addendum for torque specs, etc. - http://liftbars.com/docs/PKT-B_bolts.pdf

 

And why should I modify my gold pktensioner to the black edition?

 

It is stronger.

I originally designed the bracket like this, but then decided that folks would prefer the ease of using the bolts included with the lever and pulley.

 

So is the black version harder/more involved to install?

Meaning if I had both versions sitting in front of me starting from scratch.

 

The Black version takes a few minutes longer to install because of the through bolts, washers, and locking nuts.

 

Looking at the new version (black), I think that you will need to remove the entire bracket to be able to remove the water pump. Right?

I'm asking this because there is one water pump bolt behind the pulley and with the new version using a bolt AND a nut, I can't see how to remove the pulley without removing the entire bracket.

Is this the case or am I missing something?

By the way, just re-installed mine and kept the original design because of this. I changed the pulley bolt for a new one. Torque to spec with blue Loctite.
I also removed the air pump.

 

Roger has offered a free upgrade to the PKT-Black, why not simply do that?

 

Free upgrade?

 

Free upgrade of the bolt pack required for the conversion.

 

Then I misunderstood Roger's comment in May:
I replied:
Just to be clear: What you are now saying that Roger's "free upgrade to the PKensioner Black system" consists of two M8 bolts and nuts plus a bastard flat-head screw with an ANSI 82-deg head angle and M8 threads. Correct? And the customer provides their own 8mm drill and drill press and drills out the two threaded holes, perfectly square to the top surface, through some 15mm of steel.

There are two concerns that I would have with that: One is that non-standard fasteners just invite future trouble, particularly when they cannot easily be distinguished from standard fasteners. The other is that if the 8.0mm hole is not drilled straight, then either the tension-roller winds up off-angle or the bolt bends when it is torqued.

 

1) Only one replacement csk. screw is supplied to the user to replace the one screw that they have already - not much room for error.
2) Anyone making the modification has to be considered capable of making the modification in the correct way, or if not, knowing that they need to take the bracket to a competent person who is.

As an example you just sent me a set of PEM's and have to trust that I will follow your instruction in the correct way to install them - if I start to use a blow torch to soften the tabs on the brain to allow me to peel them back is out of your control (and yes I have seen that done with catastrophic results). You trust that when I push the PEM's into the circuit board that I am capable of doing that and not allowing the fingers to become bent or being forced into the wrong holes.

I would be happy to receive a bracket and drill the holes for the customer on my own drill press - I actually do not see that happening at all for such a simple procedure.

Sorry but we are not conduction "Rocket Science" here just common sense DIY modifications like most of the projects on our cars,

 

Same for the original - same for the "black" - nothing changed. Even using the original de-tensioner you would need to remove the assembly with rollers to allow you to remove the water pump.

Bertrand - not fully understanding your question I guess.

 

Actually Roger, the original tensioner allowedh replacement of the belt and the water pump without removing the tensioner. All that was required was removal of the idler arm.
This actually caused some of the "bad history" of this tensioner. Dealer flat rate hacks didn't have to remove the tensioner, thus the boots and other service parts did not get replaced, when they should have been.
I think the required removal of the Porken unit is a good thing....and I think it would have been a good thing for the factory to do with their design. Removal and inspection of something this important has to be a good thing!

BTW....you need to stay away from the Kool-Aid. You're starting to use terms like "de-tensioner".

I removed post #2, which was seriously some of the funniest stuff I've written in years, so this would not "turn into another bad tensioner thread". (Post #3 requested this.)

I wanted people to get an honest thread about how to fix their "gold" Porkensioner, before it has a chance to ruin a single additional engine.

Don't get me wrong....I'm still sticking to my own personal analysis of these tensioners and predict that you are going to have problems that make the "Ford Motor Mount" fiasco look like a party at the park.....

I've still not ever seen or heard of a stock tensioner ever failing and "killing" an engine. I've seen/heard of broken belts, from old age, killing engines. I've seen/heard of water pumps going bad and killing engines. I've seen/heard of broken cams killing engines. I've seen/heard of broken cam drive "stars" killing engines. I've heard (never seen) the single shear idler arm pivot breaking and killing engines. (Standard replacement bolt, for me on all belt/water pump jobs. I've even heard of Porken's tensioner breaking and killing engines.

Never have seen/heard a stock tensioner kill an engine....ever.