MainePorsche

Guys,

Just have to make a comment on this stuff.

I was always old fashioned and 'cleaned' my contacts manually with some very small rasps I have. On the urging of Stan, I purchased some Deoxit liquid with the very narrow medicine dropper for my contact work. I applied to various contact points along with my usual method of servicing them - yes, function improved but due to what ?

Yesterday I decided to use the Dexoit solo on my MAF connections. I have been having some recent cold start difficulties along with a troublesome idle at times even when hot. Sometimes the idle drop down was there, and sometimes it wasn't for the last 2 weeks. Temp II resistances normal, ISV new, timing on the money, etc... I was thinking to myself it is time for the MAF to be my next heartbreak. I've checked pin electrics according to John Speake and they're good. Hot wire test good. It is hard to manually service the male pins on the MAF with the rasp - the female harness side there is no manual servicing.

Well, yesterday simply applied Deoxit to both and I have to say quite the dramatic change. For the last 2 days not a hint of trouble, and the engine's step is a little more surefooted.

Can only be the Deoxit at the MAF connections. Now I'm really sold on it.

Thanks Stan

Bertrand Daoust

Happy to see that it works.

I'm working this week on the car reinstalling the intake and TB/WP.
I bought two cans of Deoxit and I'm using it on every electrical connections and ground I touch.

I'm sure it can only be a good thing on those over 20 years connections.

depami

Definitely good stuff. I had trailer lights that barely glowed due to a corroded plug on the tow vehicle. Sprayed it with Deoxit and plugged it back in. Watched the lights go from dim glow to full bright in less than a minute. Amazing!

Mrmerlin

Thanks Craig, its a great idea to add this to your MAF connector.

FWIW I wrote a thread about this stuff as well,
I was sold when my window and sunroof switches started working after adding a drop of the needle bottle.

I sprayed the spraycan fluid into the seat switches, the next morning they worked like new.

Then I sprayed the CE panel, now there are not any hot running fuses.

Note the spray or red liquid wont hurt plastic,

MainePorsche

Thanks for that Stan.

Was concerned about getting the material on things other than the metal contacts. That's why I purchased the micro-dropper version.

I'm about 1/3 the way through treating all connections under the hood. The battery and spare tire harnesses already done. All external light sockets/harnesses to follow. Then the painstaking pod/console/CE panel.

GlenL

Just did a CE panel with this. All the relays, fuses and spade connections; front and back. Things all seem to run better and the relays and connectors all go off/on easier.

I used it on an old component stereo system and the crackling ***** and intermittent switches all went away and it sounds like new.

Highly recommended!

Alan

Stan - you switched planes! I think this one looks better... but then I'm a bit biassed...

Alan

9two8

..., me too, great pic Stan, but like Alan I,m a little biased too.

Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK

Rotmilky

I've got some issues with seat adjust buttons and the closing button for my sunroof. I just wanted to get a little clarification on how you applied the spray to the buttons. Did you remove the buttons and spray from the reverse side or did you just hose the buttons down from the top/outside and rely on the Deoxit to flow into the connections on the reverse side?

Used Deoxit myself over the past few weeks to fix some issues with the PCB and have been using it on my ground points. Worked great for those applications.

Mrmerlin

I put the red plastic hose into the side of the seat switch a half second burst was all I applied,
the switch stayed in position

Wisconsin Joe

I have to wonder if the marketing guys at Deoxit (or it's parent company) are aware of the love this board has for their product.

I'm one of the "Deoxit Lovers" too. I've used it on every electrical connection I've touched for the past 6 or 8 months. Including the entire CE panel. I love that I can just spray it on the thing and not have to worry about hurting the plastic.

I had a plug on another car that would not stay in contact for very long (it would need a "wiggle" every now and then) until...

I gave it a quick blast and it's been fine ever since.

Chalkboss

I am elbows deep in a tb and wp job and I am hitting every single electrical connector and ground. This product has been well worth the cost, saving me from buying a seat switch and many head scratchers.

NC928S4

Question: For CE panel treatment did you leave all fuses and relays in place when you sprayed or did you remove, spray and re-install?

MainePorsche

I would imagine that in order to get the material on the 'male and female' sides of the metal contact points, the fuses and relays must be removed. This I see is where the benefit of the Deoxit comes from.

I will be applying it by micro dropper to each and every surface. I want to be sure of every dose a contact point gets - also no sticky mess.

Wisconsin Joe

I pulled the whole panel, then pulled all the fuses (set them in order on a sheet of paper that listed where each one went), pull the relays very carefully and set them on a sheet of paper that listed where each one went and then sprayed the whole panel. Fuse contacts, relay contacts, plug contacts and all. I didn't unplug anything on the back, but it did get a good dose of spray.

There's a good writeup on how to pull and replace the panel. It's not Dwaye, it's Sharkskin.

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...04-Bzzzzzt.htm