Don't overlook treating the socket contacts.

 

Thanks, I'll do the CE Panel maintenance when I'm in replacing the Recirculation Flap Diaphragm.

 

I'm in the middle of doing a bunch of jobs on my car and am thinking I need some of this Deoxit. Which deoxit product is it exactly that you are all using. D5?

 

I use this.

 

I thought i would link these two threads.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-it-works.html

The spray

 

DeOxit is a great product. You can see it working.

For long-term connectivity insurance after cleaning, this stuff also comes highly reviewed:


And, for the truly corrosion challenged, there's this procedure on one of the other fora.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...lay-block.html

 

There seems to be a lot of not-super-precise spraying going on here. The seat switch half second shot, for example. Other descriptions talk of spraying the whole CE panel, though I can't be sure what that means. Are you guys making sure no shorts occur? How?

Don't get me wrong, I've been using this stuff on my audio equipment for a decade. But, when I use it, I do it one connection at a time and am careful not to leave trails of it between hot and ground, or different hots.

Thanks,
Louis

 

Hey Craig:

Being much too old to stay stuck under the dash, I simply sprayed the entire fuse/relay pile, not removing anything. I was told somewhere that the stuff does have penetrating power and it sure worked great for me.

Barney

 

When I sprayed down the entire CE panel, it was out of the car at the time.

There's also the standard procedure of disconnecting the battery when doing electrical work. If I was spraying down seat switches or something, I'd make sure of that.
It dissipates quickly.

I do have to admit that I gave one of the door switches (for the interior lights) a short blast while it was energized. I thought about it a bit and figured that worst case would be that the current would flow and the lights would be on until the Deoxit dissipated. Didn't happen though.

 

So, it dries to a non-conductive substance in a fairly short period of time? That's good, but it does seem a little odd, in that drying to a non-conductive substance might cause a problem in itself where it remains in the contact area.

Perhaps it reacts a certain way with metals that makes/keeps it conductive, but if it doesn't encounter metal it dries non-conductive? Just pulled that out of the air. Anyone know for sure?

 

Deoxit works by chemically dissolving the oxidation. It is non-conductive both when liquid and after it has dried. While it is non-conductive, it promotes the conductivity of the treated metal.

 

Good to know. I was assuming the liquid medium/solvent was conductive. That's a cool product--something you can spray on electric contacts without having to worry about shorts.

Here is a link with info: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/....703/KB.215/.f

It says D5 is conductive, but "regular" Deoxit is not. The D5 solvent--mineral spirits--is conductive until it evaporates. I thought the D-series was the product being used by the posters here.

 

Good to know the propellants are non conductive in the spray form of Deoxit. I would spray only if I couldn't apply it with the needle applicator that I use. The gingerly applied Deoxit with the needle applicator gives me the opportunity to visually inspect every contact treated - allows me to find other issues I might have 'sprayed over' and missed. Plus no residue build up after subsequent treatments with the stuff.
My 0.02$

 

Maine,
To be clear, the solvent in the D5 spray product IS conductive. Just wait for it to evaporate if using that product. Please see the Caig document I cited for reference.

Propellants never make it to the surface. They go straight into the air from the spray nozzle.

Louis

 

Louis,
Might have misunderstood the above. Didn't mean to post mis-information.
Still, I'd rather use the needle applicator for the reasons I posted previously
Craig